Nice work. Stupid as it sounds there was a thread on here for flaring. I've done it for year's and found it informative. I think it mentioned "filing" the edges?
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth
- Thread starter JAndrea
- Start date
-
I didn’t file, but sounds like a great idea.
I bent all new lines. I tried bending those little ones that wrap around the calipers... wow.. took me all night to do one (lacked variety in my bending tools). So I bought a set. The long ones were easy to do. It was a great learning experience, and something everyone should try.... once ;) I’ll buy pre-bent stainless next time.
Bought a new 40 lb soda blaster and 12 ton press from Harbor Freight. Everything works great so far. I welded the press frame all over to give it rigidity. I used that successfully tonight to press the new studs into The new rotors and old hubs. Bearings soon.
Nice work!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
The wire that wraps the brake line is called gravel guard. Like the name implys it protects the tubing from a kicked up rock from the tire that might damage or puncture the brake line. Some brakeline places sell the coiled wire ready to go to slide over your brake tubing if your bending and flairing your own. I believe inline tube sells the gravel guard by itself. Cheap too i think a 20' long roll of it is $25
Last edited:
Good to know!
Painted the calipers (self etching primer layers first) with Anodized High Temp engine paint and starting to rebuild them (as per the 1969 Service Manual instructions) with new seals, pistons, and dust boots. I’m just going to assume they’ll leak when pressurized... that way I won’t be super disappointed.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
New seals, pistons, dust boots, should be fine.
If your redoing this brake system w all new stuff might i recommend using DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid. It will not eat paint if spilled on it, and will not wick up moisture causing line rot or sticking pistons and wheel cylinders over time like DOT 3 will.
These 2 cannot be mixed, so i would recommend placarding the master cylinder as such if you do this so you dont mistakenly cross contaminate the system later on with DOT 3 by accident.
We did DOT 5 on my dads lil red express when we restored it. Absolutely no difference in brake pedal feel or grab compared to DOT 3.
If your redoing this brake system w all new stuff might i recommend using DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid. It will not eat paint if spilled on it, and will not wick up moisture causing line rot or sticking pistons and wheel cylinders over time like DOT 3 will.
These 2 cannot be mixed, so i would recommend placarding the master cylinder as such if you do this so you dont mistakenly cross contaminate the system later on with DOT 3 by accident.
We did DOT 5 on my dads lil red express when we restored it. Absolutely no difference in brake pedal feel or grab compared to DOT 3.
Rotors mounted up nicely... 90 inch lbs torque, then backed off one notch for the cotter pin.
Well, I just used Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 to Coat the seals and pistons before installation. This is not an end-all-be-all Build, but really just to get it on the road so I can enjoy it for a while before doing some final mods over time. Thanks much for the tips!
Finished building and mounting the caliper assemblies. I also ordered the wrong sized dust caps so decided to try and pound out the dents in the old ones... I found a hammer (and tire pry bar) with a similar shape to the curves on the dust caps, then clamped it into a vice... then dropped the dust cap over it and tapped and shaped the cap with a body hammer. turned out pretty decent.
FYI I used a 1 3/4” socket to pound on the dust caps. I tried using a sliced up 2” pvc pipe with hose clamp for stability (saw it on another thread on FABO), but it just didn’t work for me.
I’m also looking for some parking brake pics if anybody has any. Thanks!
Pulled the passenger side axel today... needed to get some old (and broken) wheel studs out, plus needed to do some cleaning and painting, so figured pulling it would be best. I’ll either get new bearings/seals now, or later before getting it on the road... not sure.
Stud removal - Tried this first with my press. Wow, they were completely stuck. I broke an old rotor I was using as a base. I did get one out... and what an explosion when it finally popped. Way too dangerous.
So I went old school... rather than risk injury with the press, or damaging the axel by somehow wedging it and pounding out the studs... I made pendulums out of my arms. The axel in my left hand, and a four pound hand-hammer in my other hand. I swung each out to my sides, not super wide, but very controlled... then brought them together in my... groin area. I made sure I wouldn’t miss, for various reasons ;) When the weight of the axel met the weight of the hammer on the tip of the stud... the stud gave way with one swing... like a hot knife through butter. Even the little broken off nub-studs came right out. Just be careful to hit nothing but stud tip. This method was super efficient, with no stress on bearings, stud, Press, or me!
Stud removal - Tried this first with my press. Wow, they were completely stuck. I broke an old rotor I was using as a base. I did get one out... and what an explosion when it finally popped. Way too dangerous.
So I went old school... rather than risk injury with the press, or damaging the axel by somehow wedging it and pounding out the studs... I made pendulums out of my arms. The axel in my left hand, and a four pound hand-hammer in my other hand. I swung each out to my sides, not super wide, but very controlled... then brought them together in my... groin area. I made sure I wouldn’t miss, for various reasons ;) When the weight of the axel met the weight of the hammer on the tip of the stud... the stud gave way with one swing... like a hot knife through butter. Even the little broken off nub-studs came right out. Just be careful to hit nothing but stud tip. This method was super efficient, with no stress on bearings, stud, Press, or me!
Some painting...
Painting the new drums...
Parts!! Bought a new parking brake system from Dante’s Mopar Parts (inline tube)
Pulling on the new studs (impact wrench) and building the right rear drum brakes, which was not all that easy, considering it was my first time and There were ZERO brake parts under the flared drums when I first removed them. YouTube videos specific to Mopars helped! No clips on my rear end/axle housing for the parking brake, so I’m fashioning one hat will go under one of the carrier-to-housing nuts. Also the lock washers for the wheel cylinders seem wholely inadequate as far as diameter so I stacked them with wider washers.
Last edited:
I really like my new ‘line’ wrench!
Oops... pic isn’t uploading
Last edited:
Just a side shot...
...
-
