69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth

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MrJLR said:
Did you have to remove the windshield to get the upper dash pad out???

Jeff
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Theoretically you have to pull the windshield to remove the dash frame, not the dash pad. Once the cluster and glove box are out of the way you can get to the nuts/ bolts that hold the pad on. The bolts holding the dash frame to the cowl go in from the top which is why you have to pull the windshield, but I have heard of people cutting the bolts from the bottom side to get around that.
 
34 years ago I pulled the dash frame without removing the windshield on a '70 Duster. Getting the old bolts out, though a biatch, wasn't nearly as bad as trying to get them back in later.
 
Looks fabulous! Nice job indeed. I did the same on my car. My pic profile has several pics of the dash mounted on my work table jig. I pulled the whole dash, restored all and wired and tested all before dropping it in as a unit.
 
Getting her done!! Been going through much of the same on my 14 yr old boys SWB 65’ D100. No stone unturned

JAndrea said:
Removed the wiper motor, pivots, and wiper arms. The drivers side pivot was completely seized, which explains why the wipers didn’t work. The couple of times I tested the wipers, I’d see the slightest stammer in the arms, then id shut it down right away. It took three days of soaking in wd-40, and a vice and a heavy hammer to free it up, little by little each day. Both are spinning freely now. I may tap a grease zerk into the housing like others have done, not sure yet. Replacement bushings, etc will be needed. I’ll also be cleaning (wire wheel) up the wiper arms.

I also bench tested the motor at various speeds, as well as the “ park” position. The manual tells you all you need to know here.

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Well done!:thumbsup:
JAndrea said:
Here are some dash painting pics... I used Eastman Trim Black, which is really great stuff and dries to a nice uniform satin finish. I taped over the VIN plate because I want to leave that with the original patina, as well as keep the embossing and Chrysler printing intact.

Getting a good seal at the interface of the dash and windshield took some extra care. The shape of the cardboard, along with some finely folded paint paper led to no overspray getting to the window.

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As the owner of a 1968 Notch-Back, yer doing a GREAT job!

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Jeff
 
I'm supposed to save all that!:mad:

Great write up! I just did the same thing but only on the tear down.....
 
JAndrea said:
Good question, and one I’ve been trying to figure out myself, since it had been a while. Your question made me search for a confirmation email containing “foam” instead of “padding,” which I was originally looking for.

So... both the foam and covers were ordered from Classic Industries. The covers were a recent purchase and the box said “Legendary.” But not sure what the foam box said, as these were purchased last Fall. the foam looks exactly like the Classic foam (compared to website pics), however. Ideally, you’d get the covers and foam from the same place.

I’m thinking the slack (caused by pulling hard to take up front slack) in the fabric that had to be taken up in the back might be due to insufficient foam thickness at the sides and coming around the back. As I pulled apart the passenger seat last night, I noticed that the foam was generally MUCH thicker from the original factory construction. That goes for the front of the seat as well. The lack of backer board may have also contributed to too much slack at the top. I’ll find out with the passenger seat. The beauty of this construction is that you can pull them apart and add padding, etc to fix anything.
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It seems that many replacement foams are thinner than original. I had the same issue with a set I did years ago. A little trick I learned years ago from an upholstery guy I knew when I was restoring a volkwagen beetle I had was to add an additional layer of foam under the new replacement foam to give it a little more cushion and build it up to keep the cover nice and tight and avoid wrinkles. He also told me to put the covers in the hot sun or in the dryer for a bit to heat them up (not too long obviously, just long enough to make them more pliable). This really helps pull them around the base and stretch them out to fit nice and tight. I was impressed at how well it worked on my car and made the normally rock hard uncomfortable bug seats actually pretty nice. Seats came out nice though. Excuse the non mopar picture.

bug seats.jpg
 
JAndrea said:
More precise instructions:
  1. Mark the backbone wires on the burlap/frame where the listing wires will attach (this will tell you exactly where they are when looking down through the slot). Make sure these run approximately with step #3 below, the listing wire sleeve measurements.
  2. Insert listing wires into seat cover sleeves and measure the length of the wires (this is the length of your foam cut).
  3. Measure separation of listing wire sleeves at top and bottom of cover
  4. Transfer top and bottom separation/distance measurements to the foam (Center the separation measurements between guidelines if needed) and make dots.
  5. Draw a straight line between the dots and cut!

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Legendary foam it seems. I used it, and had to modify the bolsters heavily. This Foam is perfect for Deluxe interiors, but not for the standard interiors. Like you and I share.

The PG Classic Foam for 68/69 was the ticket that I missed! But I learned from it and will not repeat!
 
I see you had the interwoven wires and they looked pretty decent. Did you weave them back in? It does appear that you did. They make a huge difference in the feel of the seat.
 
I'm wore out just reading this..... then I think of one of my customers that makes chainmail armor by hand.... yikes....

Great post, looks like I need a lot of prep before assembly.
 

I have posted for 6 years about using that foam for a Standard fish interior!

Had hoped to save some folks some grief!
 
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