69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
check it
69 Valiant 340
- Thread starter 69 Valiant Kid
- Start date
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69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
ill be pulling the trans for sure tonight....but if its gonna go as easy as i think im gonna pull the hill side hemi too....ill have pics for you guys..
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
tonight i yanked the engine and tranny out...the hillside hemi is no more. i also filled up my rear end with my gear lube and additive. here are a few pics. i realize that this thread is kinda lame because i dont take any pics while im doing any of this work...i dont wanna get my camera dirty?...i dont know....take it for what its worth...
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
do i need center or rear sump oil pan?
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
on the sweet side i finally got an air compressor that i can run basically anything off of. and i got my headers and my gauges....and tonight i was replacing my rear main seal and found whoever put the motor together 3 years ago didnt replace the bad connecting rods that were out of round, so now my crank is junk along with bearings....this sucks. what do i do guys? put a stroker in with new connecting rod and bearings? or just sell all my new parts for the motor and buy a crate engine? need input guys, what would you rec?
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
compressor...
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
have the crank checked at a machine shop. you never know.
as far as gauges, i like those sport comps.
good size compressor for blasting too.
as far as gauges, i like those sport comps.
good size compressor for blasting too.
4mulaSvaliant
Well-Known Member
Yeah you'll need the center sump to answer your question. As for your crank Id definatly look at $ comparisons and decide based on that. Crate motors are not such a bad investment once you start looking at all the costs of a nice build. Plus you get a warranty.
Mopar70Dart
Mopar Kid
Car looks great man. You are getting alot of stuff done. Keep up the good work. That first drive will all be worth it.
Longgone
John/68 Barracuda & Dart
Wow, that`s a nice job and you`re doing it right by building a good chassis for the future 340. What brake drums did you finally use ,the late model A-body?
Yep!! Same here, the chassis is a great move.
I sent you a pm about the / exhaust .
its eather you or ebay,
I sent you a pm about the / exhaust .
its eather you or ebay,
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
i had the small bolt drums drilled for large bolt pattern....it pays to know people! thanks for the comments guys....ill be getting my motor back from the shop next week...ill show pics...
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
ill put up some pictures tonight or 2morro but i have my short block all set back from the machine shop and my heads are on along with installing new white plastic valve seals that sucked to put on. the front cover is on. my new hv oil pump is on along with my windage tray. the gasket and oil pan is on. the water pump is also on as well. and late this past week i received my performer air gap intake. i might clean and prime my motor tonight and ill take pictures of that too. but the end is near. cant wait to get this thing running. my turn for some burnout vids....
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
forgot, i put new comp springs on the heads too, put my new flat tappet hyd lifters in today and cleaned up the pushrods and put my rocker shafts on.
i need:
-driveshaft
-carb
-motor and front wire harness
-radiator
-odds and ends hoses, throttle and carb brackets
-and install the engine and trans, set timing etc
oh and get an alignment but that will be a good deal for me because i know the alignment guy. id do itmyself but our shop doesnt have an alignment rack. i may need some parts help from you guys with the odds and ends stuff. thanks again, and the old lady is telling me ive been on here too long so im outa here. later guys
i need:
-driveshaft
-carb
-motor and front wire harness
-radiator
-odds and ends hoses, throttle and carb brackets
-and install the engine and trans, set timing etc
oh and get an alignment but that will be a good deal for me because i know the alignment guy. id do itmyself but our shop doesnt have an alignment rack. i may need some parts help from you guys with the odds and ends stuff. thanks again, and the old lady is telling me ive been on here too long so im outa here. later guys
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
the reason i have 3 pictures of me tightening down the head bolts is, well, i dont know why, but lets just say its to hash and rehash the important part of torqueing down head bolts...or any bolt for that matter...today i put the primer on the motor and heads and etc...ill take a picture 2morro before i paint it....and then of course ill take a picture after i paint it...
alan627b
Well-Known Member
It looks like you are really making good progress! Gotta like a guy with a white 69 Valiant....biggest difference is yours is a Signet and mine is a 100, that and the fact that yours is a lot further along!
If you need brake drums later, another place to look is under 1/2 ton D100's and D150's, those should work too. Just measure your shoes first, since there were 10X2, 10X2.5 and 11X3, and possibly others.
My valiant had the springs moved in with the MP offset shackle kit, about .75 per side. Using a Centerline Auto Drag wheel, 15X8.5, I got a 295-50-15 under mine. Not bad for a grandma car!
Steelies with dog dishes rule....nice to have more than 1 set of wheels!
I think the easiest way to rewire the engine compartment, would be to order one of the repro wiring harnesses, with the electronic ignition added, I think Year One and several other vendors have these. Unless you have plans to add MSD or a lot of other wiring mods, than it might be more cost effective to clean and rewrap yours. Just a thought, as mine isn't there yet.
Alan627b
If you need brake drums later, another place to look is under 1/2 ton D100's and D150's, those should work too. Just measure your shoes first, since there were 10X2, 10X2.5 and 11X3, and possibly others.
My valiant had the springs moved in with the MP offset shackle kit, about .75 per side. Using a Centerline Auto Drag wheel, 15X8.5, I got a 295-50-15 under mine. Not bad for a grandma car!
Steelies with dog dishes rule....nice to have more than 1 set of wheels!
I think the easiest way to rewire the engine compartment, would be to order one of the repro wiring harnesses, with the electronic ignition added, I think Year One and several other vendors have these. Unless you have plans to add MSD or a lot of other wiring mods, than it might be more cost effective to clean and rewrap yours. Just a thought, as mine isn't there yet.
Alan627b
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
your car is comming together nicely. I like the new stance a lot. You are going to have a lot of fun with that car. And yes you know we are going to have to see some burnout vids LOL.
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
thanks for the comments guys, and you bet, ill have those burnout vids you can guarantee it. and alan, i am gonna go with the year one v8 wiring harness. im just gonna use the mopar electronic ignition kit. but thanks for the comments and help...hope to see your project. the info with the wheels is helpful. ill steal your numbers if i do that later on down the road...
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
alrighty...wel tonight i painted the motor, and after i dried for about 3 or 4 hours, i just had to put my intake manifold on and slap the vlave covers and headers on just to see what it will look like. im pumped! only read about this stuff in mopar muscles...im livin the dream. and the last pic is my 97 breeze way..the car runs great for 100xxx
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
haha i have the same car, but mines a dodge stratus 5 speed 2.4
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
what trans do you have in with this car? Like whats done to it?
69 Valiant Kid
Well-Known Member
thanks for the comments and encouragement. and burnt, i have a 727 with stage 2 shift kit....and mopar deep oil pan with billet spacer...2200 stall....
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