70k Mile Tranny Filter Replace

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72Valiant4Door

72Valiant4Door

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I bought a WIX tranny filter and wanted to replace the pan gasket and filter... After perusing FABO I am seeing contradictory information whether I should reuse the fluid and/ or even attempt the maintenance at all.


And I have no way to know if the car's mileage is true... though it appears that way.

:happy1:
 
I always recommended a fluid/filter change every 2 years or 24,000 miles. Our older cars probably won't see the miles but every few years is a good idea.
 
if its slipping or flaring and if the fluid is dark and burnt smelling forget it, might as well use the filter and oil with the rebuild. if it shifts fine and the oil looks ok change it, the filter only catches bigger 80micron and up bolders so i like to use a Magnefine filter after the cooler.
 
if you are going to go through the trouble of dropping the pan and changing the filter/fluid. You might as well adjust the bands.
 
Yes, change the fluid and filter.

It's pretty straight forward. The worst part is dropping the pan slowly from one side to let the fluid drain out. Once the pan is down, a couple of screws hold the filter on. Remove and replace filter, clean the pan well, clean the gasket mounting surfaces well, new gasket, and put it back together. Fill with new fluid through the dipstick - you'll need a pointy funnel.

If you have any questions, ask away!!!
 
I drilled my pan in the corner right under the dipstick and drain it into a bucket so it doesn't make a big mess.
Then a sheet metal screw in the hole and a dab of RTV on the inside of the pan around the screw shaft for a good seal and put it back on. (no dry time)
Now when I need to drain it I just put the bucket under it and take the screw out.

The thing with trans fluid is that it has lubricants and detergents that break down over time and need to be refreshed.
This is the main reason you don't change the fluid in a trans that is damaged.
The new detergents can finish it off in a hurry.

If making adjustments, the fluid is nice and red and clean and the pan has to come off one or two more times, then I use the same fluid again.
 
Just did a trans fluid exchange on my explorer. Dropped pan installed new filter, cleaned pan and magnet. Fill it up, removed cooler hose and back flushed the rad and auxiliary cooler with cooler flush. Put hose in a graduated container then started engine and used the trans pump to pump a quart out shut off engine add a quart and repeat until oil coming out is as clean as what is going in. It takes more oil to do it this way because converter has no drain plug but it is thorough. I added a Magnefine in line filter, it shifts nice.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
Lol. Im not a torqueflight expert, no.

Im just looking for the correct procedure.
Click to expand...

Ya just back the locknut off and screw the center stud in all the way till it's semi tight (72 inch pounds but once you have done it 300 times you can estimate it) and then back the center stud off the right amount and hold it while you tighten the locknut back down. (I like a little RTV on the stud threads under the nut just to insure a dry trans, But if you look on the trans side of the locknut for the front band it has a rubber seal molded into the nut.)
But I still like a little sealer there for assurance.

You'll find the amounts of turn to back the stud out varies with what type of rear band you have.
The front (kickdown and 2nd gear) band is up toward the front of the trans on the drivers side and the rear band adjuster is inside the trans pan on the drivers side toward the back .

You are certainly welcome to PM me with questions if you wish, and I'm sure there are others that can help if need be.
I'm trying to get an engine back together before it snows. :D (supposedly Monday)
 
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