72 dart sending unit

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Trump_XLV

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I've heard that this can be hard to get the right one? Could someone link me the correct sending unit for a 1972 dodge dart swinger?

Also could someone tell me what a sending unit should ohm/read when its "full"? We may be taking the fuel tank out here soon to do some trunk pan restorations. I'm wanting to check my sending unit that is in it currently, and if it's not reading correctly I would like to know where to get the correct one at.


thank you!
 

I've heard that this can be hard to get the right one? Could someone link me the correct sending unit for a 1972 dodge dart swinger?

Also could someone tell me what a sending unit should ohm/read when its "full"? We may be taking the fuel tank out here soon to do some trunk pan restorations. I'm wanting to check my sending unit that is in it currently, and if it's not reading correctly I would like to know where to get the correct one at.


thank you!

For measuring the resistance values of the fuel sending unit at "empty", "half", and "full", use the following numbers:

Chrysler Specification (Most 1960-1989 domestic rear wheel drive cars and light trucks):
  • Empty = 72 Ω
  • Half = 22 Ω
  • Full = 9 Ω

Miller Special Tool C-3826 Specification (used by Chrysler for field testing):
  • Empty = 75 Ω +/-5% -> 71.2 - 78.8 Ω
  • Half = 22 Ω +/-5% -> 20.9 - 23.1 Ω
  • Full = 10 Ω +/-5% -> 9.5 - 10.5 Ω

These same values are used for the low, middle, and high points on factory temperature and oil pressure gauges as well.
 
Last edited:
For measuring the resistance values of the sending unit at "empty", "half", and "full", use the following numbers:

Chrysler Specification (Most 1960-1989 domestic rear wheel drive cars and light trucks):
  • Empty = 72 Ω
  • Half = 22 Ω
  • Full = 9 Ω

Miller Special Tool C-3826 Specification (used by Chrysler for field testing):
  • Empty = 75 Ω +/-5% -> 71.2 - 78.8 Ω
  • Half = 22 Ω +/-5% -> 20.9 - 23.1 Ω
  • Full = 10 Ω +/-5% -> 9.5 - 10.5 Ω

These same values are used for the low, middle, and high points on factory temperature and oil pressure gauges as well.
Thank you, that helps alot. Any site that you know sells the correct sending unit for the 72s?

thank you!
 
Sending unit for fuel or for temp or for oil pressure????

For fuel none of the aftermarket senders are accurate, you will read full for 1/4 tank , 1/2 for the next 1/2 tank, and empty for the last 1/4 tank

Temp and oil, over the counter senders are fine

If you still have your oem sender it can be rebuilt.
 
Sending unit for fuel or for temp or for oil pressure????

For fuel none of the aftermarket senders are accurate, you will read full for 1/4 tank , 1/2 for the next 1/2 tank, and empty for the last 1/4 tank

Temp and oil, over the counter senders are fine

If you still have your oem sender it can be rebuilt.
For fuel. Was hoping i could find a working one. The one i have may work, not sure. It reads half a tank but i dont think a half is in there.
 
For fuel. Was hoping i could find a working one. The one i have may work, not sure. It reads half a tank but i dont think a half is in there.
Look around in the sticky threads in the fuel section. You may find some info there. There is a pick up or van sender that works well.
 
Thank you, that helps alot. Any site that you know sells the correct sending unit for the 72s?

thank you!

No known sources of properly functioning, accurate sending units nowadays, unless you can find a good NOS unit. There are some rebuilders, but I have never used one of them. I think Dixie Restoration Parts is, or was, a rebuilder of the units in addition to starters, alternators, etc.
 
The after market even the A or D 100 work but are not accurate

Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart

Look at the graph
That's the thread I was looking for. Yes disappointing but it looks like both are inaccurite according to the factory sender. Pick your poison. I would rather have one that is fairly accurite at empty. I don't care as much about the full end. If it stays on full for a long time and all of a sudden is at half. I had a Spectra in my 66 and it wasn't too bad but I knew ig wasn't the most accurite so when it got to a 1/4 I looked for some gas.

Thanks for doing the comparison and posting it for members to see.

Meter Match?
 
The after market even the A or D 100 work but are not accurate

Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart

Look at the graph
Do I have any options to get a system for a accurate reading? I'm guessing a electronic gauge wouldnt matter because its the sender...

Or atleast would a new tell me one, accurately, when I am low of fuel? If I know I just filled up to a full tank and the gauge not saying full is not important but would like it to tell me accurately when im about to run out.
 
That's the thread I was looking for. Yes disappointing but it looks like both are inaccurite according to the factory sender. Pick your poison. I would rather have one that is fairly accurite at empty. I don't care as much about the full end. If it stays on full for a long time and all of a sudden is at half. I had a Spectra in my 66 and it wasn't too bad but I knew ig wasn't the most accurite so when it got to a 1/4 I looked for some gas.

Thanks for doing the comparison and posting it for members to see.

Meter Match?
just to confirm....this one here: Pardon Our Interruption...

Is a good sending unit that will fit my 72 that will at least be closer to accurate near empty rather than at full?
 
Meter match will help.

The problem with all aftermarket is they are more linear than the meter and the OEM sender need.

And the problem they all have is they will show empty for a 1/4 tank (4.5 gallons) so you really have no idea how much gas you have left.

An aftermarket sender and matched meter MAY be more accurate but the shape of the tank not being rectangular means all aftermarket senders will not be accurate.

It's just the was it is.
 
. I have one here in a car that reads over a 1/8 tank when empty. It is sitting on the floor of the tank. Take the sending unit out and see if it the float arm is not positioned correctly. Operate it by hand with the unit grounded with a ground wire and plugged in..
 
I agee with Mike. I don't remember what one I bought but it drives quite a while from full to half and then drops about twice as fast to empty. I ran mine out of gas on purpose and it runs out when it's right on empty so I'm happy. Make sure you save your original locking ring because the aftermarket ones are too thin and don't seal correctly.
Good luck!
 
Who rebuilds them any more? There have been discussions lately about that. I made a sticky about that. Who rebuilds fuel tank senders?
I had mine done by Desert Classic Parts though I haven't installed it yet. Nice guy. Does these as a retirement side gig. He said my brass contact was worn away.

IMG_3750.jpg
IMG_3749.jpg
IMG_3751.jpg
 
Are we aware of any custom gauge that pairs with a sending unit that I could use in stead that would give a more accurate reading?

thanks!
 
Are we aware of any custom gauge that pairs with a sending unit that I could use in stead that would give a more accurate reading



Not really.

The shape of the tank is not a rectangle.

The top 1/2 of the tank has a cutout for the space tire well.

That means removing 4.5 gallons of fuel will lower the level in the tank 2x as fast as if it was rectangular.

The middle 9 gallons of the tank are relatively rectangular so the middle 9 gallons will go down at an even rate.

The last 4.5 gallons the bottom of the tank is tapered so it goes down at yet another different rate.

That's JUST for the tank.

Now the gauge has a curve all it's own.

10 ohms is full scale
72 ohms is empty scale

So 1/2 scale should be 41 right.... NOPE 23 is 1/2 scale 41 is closer to 3/4 scale

It's a curve.

The sender has to be calibrated for the shape of tank AND the curve of the gauge
 
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