7260 U-Joints

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70dart340

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After receiving my new 7260 slip yoke from Mancini, I went to install the new U-joint and ran into a problem. The parts store had 2 different brands of U-joints in stock, one by Precision, and the other by Toyo. I went to install the Precision unit, but I can't fit the retaining clip on the bearing cap in the yoke. Further scrutinizing with my Bifocals revealed that the retaining ring groove on the needle bearing cap is much lower on the barrel of the cap. The old(factory 1970?) cap and the Toyo both have the groove further up the cap towards the open end. The slip yoke isn't wide enough to put both retaining clips on once the bearing is pressed in the yoke. My question for the FABO brain trust is this: Should I get another Toyo and drive on? Or should I get a "premium" brand. I value all comments and criticisms. I especially interested in hearing from you racing and track guys. What brand do you prefer and where can I buy them? Thanks to all ahead of time. Paul.

U-Joint1.jpg


U-Joint2.jpg
 
I was eyeballing that one, too. I can't see how you could get a grease gun on the fitting once it's installed. Thanks, Scody.
 
I never understood "7260" 7290" "1330" etc, when talking U joints
 
My question for the FABO brain trust is this: Should I get another Toyo and drive on? Or should I get a "premium" brand
There are several places to buy u joints online.


I found that the Spicer Life Series 5-789X had too much thickness in its main body to go into the OEM slip yoke or OEM driveshaft (I don't recall which). I kknow that sounds odd but it really happened and I have installed many U joints

I ended up with a standard grade u joint with a flat zerk that you use a needle adapter to lube.
Screenshot_20250316-210932.png
 
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After receiving my new 7260 slip yoke from Mancini, I went to install the new U-joint and ran into a problem. The parts store had 2 different brands of U-joints in stock, one by Precision, and the other by Toyo. I went to install the Precision unit, but I can't fit the retaining clip on the bearing cap in the yoke. Further scrutinizing with my Bifocals revealed that the retaining ring groove on the needle bearing cap is much lower on the barrel of the cap. The old(factory 1970?) cap and the Toyo both have the groove further up the cap towards the open end. The slip yoke isn't wide enough to put both retaining clips on once the bearing is pressed in the yoke. My question for the FABO brain trust is this: Should I get another Toyo and drive on? Or should I get a "premium" brand. I value all comments and criticisms. I especially interested in hearing from you racing and track guys. What brand do you prefer and where can I buy them? Thanks to all ahead of time. Paul.

View attachment 1716379662

View attachment 1716379663

The Precision universal joint in the pictures has the incorrect caps. The caps might have been made wrong, or it might have been assembled wrong at the manufacturer, or it might be a return where a prior person mixed things up with caps from another universal joint. I have used Precision for years, but have not bought a new one in over a decade. It was not the best, but was better than average and good for my needs. Precision may have gone down hill though. Precision was formerly Torque Manufacturing who made good USA parts. Precision continued this tradition. Moog bought Precision and Federal Mogul bought Moog. When Moog deteriorated, it might have taken Precision with it. I am not familiar with the Toyo brand, but it looks as though it at least fits.

The Precision/Moog 315G, or 317 with grease fitting in the cap, (7260 size) universal joint from Chrysler is number 4364400 or 4384514 (later supersession numbers to 1752624, 2298908, 3780250). The Dana Spicer equivalent number is 5-1306X or 5-3228X (grease fitting in cap). The TRW (defunct) number is 20030. The Federal Mogul number is 20030P (which is really TRW, whom they also bought). The heavy duty non-drilled, non-grease fitting universal joint from Dana Spicer is 5-789X. This joint is greased by packing the caps with grease before installing and after installation by removal and re-packing the caps with grease.

Other brands are out there, such as SKF, Meritor(Rockwell), etc. but Chrysler, Precision, Torque, Dana, or TRW are the brands I generally look for and use but nowadays, I only pickup old NOS joints, except Dana. I've never had a problem or breakage with Precision or the other mentioned brands, just some wear after many years and many miles. I don't put racing stresses on mine much though. The only brand I really had trouble with in the past was Neapco. You might try another Precision, but check it at the store. If the Toyo is good and fits, get another if you need one, or possibly consider another brand. Any Dana Spicer is good, but for the most strength, the 5-789X is a top choice.
 

I never understood "7260" 7290" "1330" etc, when talking U joints
Part numbers associated with size also. There are three common homes. The smalles is 7260and largest is 1350. Smaller=weaker. 1350 is what alot of people with big pier and torque use.

7260 can handle a fair amount though so if that’s what you have dont worry
 
I never understood "7260" 7290" "1330" etc, when talking U joints
Me neither. I sold auto parts for nearly 15 years at two different stores, and we carried Precision, LOL.
 
The local driveshaft shop to me recommends Spicer Life series. That is what I use. The ones with the built-in grease fitting in the body are inherently weaker from the hole in the joint.. Granted most of us ran em for years without issue. The grease fitting built into the cap is a little better. The Spicer Life series without grease fittings are IMHO the strongest most readily available.
 
toyo are japanese
but just like everything these days, they are a worldwide multinational with manufacturing facilities everywhere...
i have their bearings in my 4 speed
my 4 speed works and has done for a long time

if you had a nissan or a toyota likely toyo bearings sumitomo calipers and three 555 ball joints

all japanese companies with a good reputation

Dave
 
non-grease fitting universal joint from Dana Spicer is 5-789X.
I couldn't get it into the slip yoke or the driveshaft (don't recall which) both OEM parts. its body was too large
 
Speaking of cool things....


OEM U joint had a strap to hold the caps on during assembly.
This MAY be the OEM U joint (I can not find any record of it being changed in my dad's log books) 320,000 miles
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I just pulled the driveshaft out of my 66 Charger and my rear u-joint has the same retaining strap, so I assume it is original. One cap on the rear joint is notchy, but the front joint still feels pretty good. Both joints will be replaced while I have it out.
 
@70dart340
What are the chances a needle fell over? I mean I bet you checked but I didn't see anybody mention it.
I always take the joints apart, wash them out, and reinstall the rollers with Black MolyGrease. But my 367 doesn't break joints anymore since I stopped using 7260 joints.

Sometimes, while pressing the cups in, the saddles follow the cup down. In which case you get what you got. I just whack the saddles back until the groove walks out. Badaboom
 
What are the chances a needle fell over? I mean I bet you checked but I didn't see anybody mention it.
see the OPs photo in Post 1 the OEM and replacement cup side by side. BUT very reasonable question and has happened to me.

If it wasn't for the first photo I was thinking the yoke got squeezed.
 
I lost track of that thread.
Yeah, that was me, too. I needed new U-Joints for the new slip yoke. I'm replacing the rear joint because it's old. BTW, I will be adding a drive shaft loop to the car. Cheap insurance.
 
The old joints were the originals, with the cap strap still on them. I did make sure all the bearings were in the side of the cup with a big dollop of grease to hold them in. I mic'd all four caps, and they're identical. The Toyos all have the retaining groove in the same place as the originals. The yoke wasn't squeezed hard and were supported with a piece of cobalt I had laying around. The sides with the bearing carriers appear to be square and straight, as close as I can measure. Undue force wasn't used pressing in the new joints. I ordered a set of the 5-789X joints with new retaining straps from Amazon. A big thanks to all for all the great information. My FABO family came through again. Paul.
 
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