727 Rebuild Advice

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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Rear ends done and looking to move on to the trans. I'm looking at some performance rebuild kits. I like kits because they make things easy on me when buying. Im thinking the first kit has the parts I need. This is a performance trans. Behind a Mild 440. Which one of these would you choose? Im looking for something complete. Then I need a Shift kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-727-T...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27b922492e


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrys...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aaf30b7cc


http://www.ebay.com/itm/727-Transmi...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53d6ce1414
 
.............Either 1 will do the job............get a trans-go dash2 shift kit......or if u want a foreward manual shift get there dash3.............kim.........
 
All 3 kits are basically the same and good looking kits except the 2nd has better clutch plates and steels but none have all the bushings or any thrust washers. When I rebuild a trans. I replace all bushings and thrust washers and you also need some selective thrust washers to set the end play. If you haven't already tore it apart measure the end play and write it down then take the pump out and measure the thickness of the selective thrust washer. It's the first fiber washer that's right behind the pump. Basically it's between the pump and front clutch pack. If you have .050" end play and the selective thrust washer is .068 you can jump up to a .097 selective washer to get the end play down to about .020" which is where I like them so things are no slapping back and forth so much. You also need to inspect the pump gears and check the clearance on them. About half the trans. I do get either a new set of gears or complete new pump assy. One last thing that isn't absolutely necessary but it's a good thing to do is shim the gear train. Most of the time it's pretty loose, on the order of .025~.040". I like to get the total gear train end play down to .008~.010" but shims are only made in .010" thickness so sometimes you have to just get it as close as you can, just don't go too tight.

I agree with Kim on the shift improver kit(s). Trans-go TF-2 for a street/strip trans. that shifts automatically or a TF-3 kit if you want to make it full manual shift. Also look at your front band apply lever ratio. If it's a 3.2, 3.8 or 4.2 that's great. Less than that you may want to put a higher ratio lever in it but whatever you do don't put a 5.0 lever in it. Every one I ever put a 5.0 lever in I had to take back out because it caused shift overlap going into 3rd gear. If you decide to change the lever put a 3.8 or 4.2 in it. The higher ratio the lever the firmer the 2nd gear shift. My personal preference with a stock/modified valve body is to use a 3.8 lever and block the accumulator. It'll shift real solid into 2nd and not overlap going into 3rd.

BTW: if you don't already have it there's a great book out by Carl Munroe on torqueflites. The only thing I don't agree with him on is he likes everything super tight. I've had better results with slightly more clearances than he recommends. JMHO

Here's a link to the book on Amazon.com

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite--727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320860112&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications (9781557883995): Carl Munroe: Books[/ame]
 
I have a good video Tony sent me that walks you though the process step by step. .
Fishy what are acceptable tolerances?
 
72ScampTramp said:
This kit has everything. But what does it mean where it says "Not Tumbled"?
Click to expand...

means the steels are NEW...Not Tumbled...a tranny shop will take the old steels and run them thru a tumbler....to make them look new again...

my friend who owns a tranny shop...has a tumbler...
 
72ScampTramp said:
I have a good video Tony sent me that walks you though the process step by step. .
Fishy what are acceptable tolerances?
Click to expand...

Ok, cool.. I like to get the geartrain slack down as close to .008 as possible but no tighter but as I mentioned earlier shims only come in .010" so you just do what you can. Most of the time you only need 1 or 2 shims. For the total endplay I like to see .018-.025. I like to see .040~.060 on the rear clutch pack and .050~.070 on the front clutch. To adjust the clutch pack clearance you need some selective snap rings that I forgot to mention earlier. Also make sure the front clutch has no less than 10 return springs in it.
 
fishy68 said:
Ok, cool.. I like to get the geartrain slack down as close to .008 as possible but no tighter but as I mentioned earlier shims only come in .010" so you just do what you can. Most of the time you only need 1 or 2 shims. For the total endplay I like to see .018-.025. I like to see .040~.060 on the rear clutch pack and .050~.070 on the front clutch. To adjust the clutch pack clearance you need some selective snap rings that I forgot to mention earlier. Also make sure the front clutch has no less than 10 return springs in it.
Click to expand...


This is the spot where the discs and seals are correct? Im guessing you measure how far the y push down and come back up?
 
fishy68 said:
Ok, cool.. I like to get the geartrain slack down as close to .008 as possible but no tighter but as I mentioned earlier shims only come in .010" so you just do what you can. Most of the time you only need 1 or 2 shims. For the total endplay I like to see .018-.025. I like to see .040~.060 on the rear clutch pack and .050~.070 on the front clutch. To adjust the clutch pack clearance you need some selective snap rings that I forgot to mention earlier. Also make sure the front clutch has no less than 10 return springs in it.
Click to expand...


This is the spot where the discs and seals are correct? Im guessing you measure how far the y push down and come back up?
 
If you walz over to Youtube, there's a series of about 18? videos there on 727 rebuild

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzJhCBZ1wMY"]Rebuilding 727 torqueflite 600hp part1 - YouTube[/ame]

IF you install the Firefox browser and "download helper" on Firefox you can save those videos on your 'puter

CERTAINLY buy Carl Munroe's book on rebuilding them:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998"]Amazon.com: Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications (9781557883995): Carl Munroe: Books[/ame]



Investigate the ATSG series books:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ATSG-Chrysler-Torqueflight-Techtran-Manual/dp/B002KDJOMA"]Amazon.com: ATSG Chrysler Torqueflight A-727 A-904, Techtran Manual: Robert D. Cherrnay: Books[/ame]



Don't forget that most of what you need to know is right in the shop manual:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
 
72ScampTramp said:
I have read that before. I dont plan to run a manual VB. I also doubt Ill ever see over 6k. I wont go bolt in sprag I dont feel its needed. I did know about the burn out in 2nd gear. Im sure that thats not exactly what you ment but if this was a full out race car sure I would probably use a bolt in sprag.
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5000 rpm in first gear with the sprag rolled over will spin the drum over 12000 rpm , can you say KABOOM !

Unless you have a full manual valve body starting out in second gear with an automatic shift valve body, even with a shift kit in it, still starts the trans in first WITHOUT the low band applied. With an auto shift valve body the only time the low band is applied is when the trans is in manual low .

I just did a trans to put behind a mild 440 , put the A+A sprag in it for piece of mind because the owner didn't want to spend 600 for the front drum. the extra rollers in the super sprags make it virtually impossible for the rollers to fail , there isn't enough room for them to move that far.

Of course if you do something dumb like don't shift to first a 60 you can rip the back part of case out....
 
ive seen them vids too. ive actually done quite a bit of research on this. Them videos on you tube are aussie videos and very good. I watched the last one not to long ago and waiting for updates.
 
snap ring pliers

some means to compress front clutch pac

some means to remove and replace bushing...
 
What Tony said and I use a slide hammer with 3/8-24 threads on the end to get the front pump out. You'll also need a dial indicator to check the end play. A caliper or 0-1" mic to check the thickness of selective snap rings and thrust washers. A seal pick if you don't have one now.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Fishy: I have basic hand tools and other things.

Can you tell me what tools ill need for the job?
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Between the books I posted above, it tells you all of that. You can use a C clamp style engine valve spring compressor, you can pretty much make most else you need except snap ring pliers (Hell I've even made THEM)

Those Youtube flicks are pretty informative
 
67Dart273 said:
Between the books I posted above, it tells you all of that. You can use a C clamp style engine valve spring compressor, you can pretty much make most else you need except snap ring pliers (Hell I've even made THEM)

Those Youtube flicks are pretty informative
Click to expand...

Thats what Im figuring. The vids on you tube are good but not complete yet. I have a DVD video that is very indepth. The bushings I might have problems with. After seeing what they use in the video I might just pay someone to do that.
 
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