Last time I did a B&M kit, it did not come with the low/reverse clutches and steels, or the low/reverse band. Those are easy to get, and will insure you replace ALL of the wearable friction disc materials. A couple of other things to consider. Either get a deep pan with a drain plug NOW or get the drain plug kit for the stock pan. Now is the time to get a drain plug on that trans. There's a couple tools you will need to improvise or borrow if you don't own. A dial indicator to read the end play of the output shaft. A few big c clamps or c clamp welding type vise grips to compress the piston springs in the clutch packs while to remove the snap ring that holds the hat that contains the clutch pack piston springs. A good feeler gauge for installing the lip seals and pistons to slide over the seals. TAKE YOUR TIME with the lip seals - make sure sure you don't roll one over or nick it when you install them. You are going to get a LOT of extra seals in the kit - be sure to BAG AND MARK each seal you remove so you can correctly match up the new one to go back in its place. You need an inch pounds torque wrench to install the valve body and adjust the bands. A small 12 pt socket to go over the 4 pt band adjuster screws.
Be careful and take your time if you decide to install the shift kit. Be sure to get all the chips out and the check balls in the right place. Don't knick the sharp edges on the valves in the valve body. You can use a chain and two bolts to pull the front pump - no need for slide hammers. I went to a local transmission shop when I needed a thicker clutch steel to get the clutch pack thickness right and as long as you know what you're talking about they will usually work with you.