74 318 crankshaft

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dustya_383

dustya_383

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Hey Guys , so assome of you may know had a bit of a problem with coolant in my Oil on my 410 stroker motor. I'm going to address this problem hopefully not having to pull motor . The car that this engine is in was once my Daily driver and was going to continue to be once swap was done. Now IF it comes to where motor has to come out I'm going to pull it and put my bonestock 318 back on but want to. Leave the 4 speed in it.as well. As my 8 3/4 rear til 410 is reworked. Now my question is how do I know if m 318 crank is drilled for the 4 speed? Also my flywheel crank and balancer (from410) were all balanced together. Can I throw this flywheel on with out any problems??or will Ihave a balancing issue.?? I plan on doing this only if my 410. Has to come completely out

Thanks guys
 
cant use 410s flywheel unless your stroker was internaly balanced 74 318 crank prob not drilled but use adaptor i think
 
Have no clue on balancing what the difference between internal and external balance. I was not there when engine was balanced all I know is he needed my balancer crank and flyWheel. . Flywheel I got is a 440 source wheel. So my 4 speeds has the center force dual friction clutch can I just get an OE flywheel??? Also have a number for those adapters I've herd of them but never seen em. Does it eliminate the bushing or is it tied in with adapter.??
 
you can use this bearing instead of the bushing if the crankshaft is not finished drilled for manual transmission. Use a National Bearing FC-69907 this bearing fits in the register where the converter would go into the crankshaft. If the crank is at least rough drilled far enough about 2/12 inches I believe this will work with nothing additional. I however can not speak to the balancing issue but assume the stroker is externally balanced and the 318 is neutral balanced. You'll likely need a different flywheel.
 
90% of aftermarket cranks are internally balanced. Your 318 will be also. You cam use the same flywheeel on both engines. Do you have a pic of the crank flange on the 318? Then we can tell if its drilled for the pilot bushing or not. Most were, at least all the stockers that i've had in my hands
 
Any idea where the coolant is coming from? Could be something as simple as the intake is loose or not sealed properly
 
Dustya, I'm gonna take the positive approach and say you wont have to pull the stroker. Pullin for ya brother!
 
Hey thanks saetun im sure hopin to ,ill get a picture of the crank flange for you guys I did a coolant pressure test and found a small crack on intake where coolant temp sensor is and in my radiator but other than that nothing.. I pulled intake and the intake valley is very very clean. No milky oil or anything but its milky on the dip stick . So I'm kinda stuck on what other tests I can do before it comes to me havin to pull engine AGAIN. But I'm hoping I figure this out.
 
with the stroker do you fire it up for only a few minutes at a time and then shut it off? Are you sure its coolant and not just condensation?
 
lucky13 said:
with the stroker do you fire it up for only a few minutes at a time and then shut it off? Are you sure its coolant and not just condensation?
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Hey lucky, well initially I would fire it up for a little bit trying to get timing right an such, but I would turn it off because it would get hot very quick I mean a min and a half and its at 200 degrees . What would cause condensation ??
 
TWo things:
On the flywheel - if it was used to balance the crank (this will depend on whether or not the shop took weight offit in order to make the rotating assembly come into balance) then it's not going to work on the 318. But - any neutral balanced flywheel will.
On the stroker - yes, turning it on and not letting it get to operating temp for a few minutes will cause condensation and milky bits around the dip stick and breathers. What water pump are you using, and what block is it based on?
 
moper said:
TWo things:
On the flywheel - if it was used to balance the crank (this will depend on whether or not the shop took weight offit in order to make the rotating assembly come into balance) then it's not going to work on the 318. But - any neutral balanced flywheel will.
On the stroker - yes, turning it on and not letting it get to operating temp for a few minutes will cause condensation and milky bits around the dip stick and breathers. What water pump are you using, and what block is it based on?
Click to expand...

Hmm well if it'd comes to me having to pull it again ill get a new flywheel . As for the stroker I'm using a stock pump worked fine before. It's based off of a 360.
 
There's no chance that you accidentally put a magnum timing cover on it, is there?
 
Another stupid question, but did you happen to check it against another gauge?
 
Just a couple questions about your 410c.i

How much was fluid in your rad going down?If any?
Was the stroker engine assembled by a professional engine builder?

I,d hate to see an expensive piece(engine)have catastrophic failure due to something simple as a bad,wrong head gasket.Good luck.

P.S On my 2nd 410 build with 140 passes on it this season.:D
 
lucky13 said:
Another stupid question, but did you happen to check it against another gauge?
Click to expand...

I don't believe I put a magnum cover on. I put the cover on that came on the block , which looked to be original. As for checking with another gauge. I did and I didn't cause car had cooled down and I was scared to start it up any More and do more damage.
 
pettybludart said:
Just a couple questions about your 410c.i

How much was fluid in your rad going down?If any?
Was the stroker engine assembled by a professional engine builder?

I,d hate to see an expensive piece(engine)have catastrophic failure due to something simple as a bad,wrong head gasket.Good luck.

P.S On my 2nd 410 build with 140 passes on it this season.:D
Click to expand...


Well I had rad full . And I had reservoir full also so I don't think it was going down .. And yes the bottom end was built by a shop I assembled the top end heads cam intake carb rocker arm etc.

I'm running a 1008fel pro gasket @ 0 deck
 
What thermostat did you put in it? Could it possibly be stuck closed? I always check mine on the stove before they ever make it onto an engine. What about the carb? What size and any idea on the jets? Sorry for all the basic questions, but thats usually what the issue is. I'm pulling for ya to get the 410 stroker going
 
Me too.Time to get nasty.Cut the top bow of the stat in the 410 manifold.Yank the guts out,re install the orifice/ main shell only.Light it,5 -10 minutes,only pure water.Install a known good gauge,in the engine compartment,simply watch.
 
lucky13 said:
What thermostat did you put in it? Could it possibly be stuck closed? I always check mine on the stove before they ever make it onto an engine. What about the carb? What size and any idea on the jets? Sorry for all the basic questions, but thats usually what the issue is. I'm pulling for ya to get the 410 stroker going
Click to expand...

I put a 180 stat in it Did not test it but I sure will from now on. I did noticed the block would be hot and upper hose would be warm if not cool. So I'm guessing the stat is part of the problem . My carb is a holley 850 do 81 and 76 on the jets or 78 can't remember. I have it written in marker on the carb have to double check

Thanks guys I'm really hoping to get this thing rolling again too its killin me everyday i walk outside and see it in my driveway I have 3 Mopars and all aren't running at the moment:wack: lol
 
lucky13 said:
What thermostat did you put in it? Could it possibly be stuck closed? I always check mine on the stove before they ever make it onto an engine. What about the carb? What size and any idea on the jets? Sorry for all the basic questions, but thats usually what the issue is. I'm pulling for ya to get the 410 stroker going
Click to expand...

Abodybomber said:
Me too.Time to get nasty.Cut the top bow of the stat in the 410 manifold.Yank the guts out,re install the orifice/ main shell only.Light it,5 -10 minutes,only pure water.Install a known good gauge,in the engine compartment,simply watch.
Click to expand...

You guys have a certain brand stat you like ?? Mr gasket or ???? Hoping to do work this coming week on my days off
 
sounds like it may just be a stuck closed tstat. I like the stant brand, but as long as you test it before any will do. Also wouldn't hurt to drill two 1/8" holes in the disc of the tstat to help with getting all the air out.
 
another thing to remember is if you're gonna idle it for long periods of time, throw a fan in front of the radiator and force some air through it.
 
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