74 Challenger, is it worth it?

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ledman

ledman

'74 Duster 360
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I posted this over on the E body forum as well, but I thought I would get your guys opinions as well.
Saw this car locally, they want $21,995, decoding the VIN#JH23G4B212183 it was originally a 318 car with a high price class, 2 door hardtop, restored and upgraded to a 383 auto, and upgraded to power disc brakes. It was repainted, and that green is supposedly the original color too.
Link to car:
http://www.pacificmotorcars.com/veh...fbd72/1974+dodge+challenger+2-door+coupe.html
I have not seen the car in person yet, but I was just wondering if the price is in the ballpark, over priced, or just right.
What questions should I be asking them about this car to see if it is worth what they are asking? I want to know where the engine came from, and how to tell if the upgrade was done correctly.
Thanks guys
 
If the car has been done as well as they make out, I think the car is actually underpriced.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If the car has been done as well as they make out, I think the car is actually underpriced.
Click to expand...

I spoke to the dealer on the phone, he doesn't know where the motor came from, if it was a crate motor or a transplant. He said it sounds awesome and drives even better, he wants me to come take a look at it, but I would have to finance it, and I am not ready to do that now.
He seemed a little impressed I knew it was originally a 318 car, and that it is not a real R/T,, as you know some places try and pass off cars like that as an original, which he didn't try to do to me even before I said anything he said it was more of a tribute car in that aspect, just for appearance sakes.
 
I'd say its a little on the high side for a '74. Obviously non-numbers, but that matters less for the '74's as far as I'm concerned, especially since it was a 318 car. I'd be most worried about the bodywork, who did it and how long ago.

The conversion to the 383 is a piece of cake, E-bodies used the same K frames for both big and small block so the only things that change are the motor mounts, driveshaft length because of the 727, and the radiator. The radiator appears aftermarket, and the hoses seem to work, so I wouldn't be horribly worried about the "conversion". The size of the torsion bars would be worth asking about, as those were different between the 318 and 383, but I personally wouldn't keep the stock 383 bars even if it had them. Would be worth checking to see what rear end is in the car too, since I can't see it in any of the pictures. But with an E-body 318 it shouldn't have been a 7 1/4 anyway, worst case is probably an 8.25.

My biggest concerns would be who did the bodywork and what it looks like up close and underneath, and what the story on the 383 is- who rebuilt it, what specs, how it sounds etc. Its not an original car, but it doesn't look hacked up either. If everything seems legit, I would say its probably only overpriced by a few grand. But if you start seeing a bunch of shortcuts, it could be trouble.

I see a few things that bug me. The paint isn't great up close, the bodywork and paint look like they may have been hurried, or not finished out with the proper sanding and buffing. Some of the body lines look a little wonky, but it would be easier to tell in person. Definitely not a concourse paint job. You can see the shock bolts in the engine compartment shots are rusty, so those aren't new. Looks like someone pulled the trunk weatherstripping and didn't replace it, could be the trunk lid isn't adjusted properly. And the stance is all wrong, its sitting way too high in the front, so it probably needs an adjustment and an alignment. To me those things add up to a car that could have been fixed up for a quick flip, so you may have quality issues elsewhere as well. Not a horrible car, but I'd probably want it closer to $16k than 22. It's a dealer car, so for me it goes without saying that its at least a few grand too much. ;-). It looks pretty good, but there's definitely some details that didn't get taken care of. Might be no big deal, or it could bite you later down the road. Biggest thing to remember is that it's a '74, and they don't fetch the same prices as the earlier cars, even though technically they made a lot fewer of them.
 
72bluNblu said:
I'd say its a little on the high side for a '74. Obviously non-numbers, but that matters less for the '74's as far as I'm concerned, especially since it was a 318 car. I'd be most worried about the bodywork, who did it and how long ago.

The conversion to the 383 is a piece of cake, E-bodies used the same K frames for both big and small block so the only things that change are the motor mounts, driveshaft length because of the 727, and the radiator. The radiator appears aftermarket, and the hoses seem to work, so I wouldn't be horribly worried about the "conversion". The size of the torsion bars would be worth asking about, as those were different between the 318 and 383, but I personally wouldn't keep the stock 383 bars even if it had them. Would be worth checking to see what rear end is in the car too, since I can't see it in any of the pictures. But with an E-body 318 it shouldn't have been a 7 1/4 anyway, worst case is probably an 8.25.

My biggest concerns would be who did the bodywork and what it looks like up close and underneath, and what the story on the 383 is- who rebuilt it, what specs, how it sounds etc. Its not an original car, but it doesn't look hacked up either. If everything seems legit, I would say its probably only overpriced by a few grand. But if you start seeing a bunch of shortcuts, it could be trouble.

I see a few things that bug me. The paint isn't great up close, the bodywork and paint look like they may have been hurried, or not finished out with the proper sanding and buffing. Some of the body lines look a little wonky, but it would be easier to tell in person. Definitely not a concourse paint job. You can see the shock bolts in the engine compartment shots are rusty, so those aren't new. Looks like someone pulled the trunk weatherstripping and didn't replace it, could be the trunk lid isn't adjusted properly. And the stance is all wrong, its sitting way too high in the front, so it probably needs an adjustment and an alignment. To me those things add up to a car that could have been fixed up for a quick flip, so you may have quality issues elsewhere as well. Not a horrible car, but I'd probably want it closer to $16k than 22. It's a dealer car, so for me it goes without saying that its at least a few grand too much. ;-). It looks pretty good, but there's definitely some details that didn't get taken care of. Might be no big deal, or it could bite you later down the road. Biggest thing to remember is that it's a '74, and they don't fetch the same prices as the earlier cars, even though technically they made a lot fewer of them.
Click to expand...

Awesome info! I didn't notice any of those things, thank you for that. The dealer told me THEY repainted the hood, and some other various parts that were faded and in need of touch up...could be like you said, make it look shiny and flashy for a quick flip.
I know these are not the desirable years to have, but still cool nonetheless, and I was guessing maybe it was worth 18K with the brake upgrades and stuff, but I guess I need to go see it in person. Dealers will always be higher. I need to find a good car from a MOPAR lover like me, that will be a good, solid car that's been taken care of. I know how I am with my car, but I am saving my pennies for a older MOPAR!!
 
4404spd said:
That interior color is dirt ugly...
Click to expand...

I agree. It doesn't seem to match. The seats look like they are 'upholstery shop' redos, not Legendary quality covers.

That said, the color may not photograph well. I took pics of a car I had with a green interior and the colors did not photograph well at all. The parts all had strange hues and didn't look anything like they did in person. If I was interested in this car I would definately want to see it in person.

I do like Sherwood Green. A friend bought a new Sherwood Green 4wd truck in '74 and I thought it was a really nice color back then.
Dallas
 
Good looking car. Found another 74 in Phoenix you may like better. http://www.autotraderclassics.com/f...DGE&address=75204&startYear=1974&endYear=1974

IMO, the Phoenix car can probably be had for the same $s as the Gardena car. I prefer the Phoenix car because it seems more honest. One could order a car like it for the 74 model year. Repairs would be a breeze, it's a 74, 4-speed, 360, Challenger Rallye. No other explanations needed.

The other car is a 74, auto, 383, Challenger. Let's see; book for the 74 Challenger does not show a R/T model or a 727 automatic or a big block motor being installed. Not only that, the last year for the 383 was 1971, with the 400 being offered in B & C bodies beginning in 1972. No big block E-bodies after 1971. (You got some s'plainin' to do, Willis. - Gary Coleman to Todd Bridges on Diff'rent Strokes.) This isn't necessarily a knock against the car, but it is something successor owners will have to deal with. IMHO, if you're out of your league here, back off. It is too possible to wind up with an expensive hunk of inert metal.

Questions about the green 74 Challenger:

  1. Where did the car come from?
  2. Where did engine & transmission come from?
  3. Has engine and/or transmission been rebuilt? When?
  4. Do the cylinder heads have hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel?
  5. Was engine originally a 2v, 4v, or HP?
  6. How is engine situated in car, K-frame swap, Schumacher kit, or other custom?
  7. How has 42k on odometer been verified?
  8. Take caliper with and measure the thickness of a torsion bar. It should be no less than .890 inches. While on the floor count the number of leaves in both rear springs. The count should be 5.
  9. What kind of brakes are on the front end? Transplanted OEM or 3rd party (source).
 
2 Darts said:
Good looking car. Found another 74 in Phoenix you may like better. http://www.autotraderclassics.com/f...DGE&address=75204&startYear=1974&endYear=1974

IMO, the Phoenix car can probably be had for the same $s as the Gardena car. I prefer the Phoenix car because it seems more honest. One could order a car like it for the 74 model year. Repairs would be a breeze, it's a 74, 4-speed, 360, Challenger Rallye. No other explanations needed.

The other car is a 74, auto, 383, Challenger. Let's see; book for the 74 Challenger does not show a R/T model or a 727 automatic or a big block motor being installed. Not only that, the last year for the 383 was 1971, with the 400 being offered in B & C bodies beginning in 1972. No big block E-bodies after 1971. (You got some s'plainin' to do, Willis. - Gary Coleman to Todd Bridges on Diff'rent Strokes.) This isn't necessarily a knock against the car, but it is something successor owners will have to deal with. IMHO, if you're out of your league here, back off. It is too possible to wind up with an expensive hunk of inert metal.

Questions about the green 74 Challenger:

  1. Where did the car come from?
  2. Where did engine & transmission come from?
  3. Has engine and/or transmission been rebuilt? When?
  4. Do the cylinder heads have hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel?
  5. Was engine originally a 2v, 4v, or HP?
  6. How is engine situated in car, K-frame swap, Schumacher kit, or other custom?
  7. How has 42k on odometer been verified?
  8. Take caliper with and measure the thickness of a torsion bar. It should be no less than .890 inches. While on the floor count the number of leaves in both rear springs. The count should be 5.
  9. What kind of brakes are on the front end? Transplanted OEM or 3rd party (source).
Click to expand...

Thanks for that list...I don't think I will be getting that green one anyways.
Is this the one you were talking about? http://www.autotraderclassics.com/c...hallenger-1531660.xhtml?conversationId=999503

That is pretty sweet:burnout:

I like this one too, and the price is attractive
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/c...hallenger-1587315.xhtml?conversationId=999503
 
ledman said:
Awesome info! I didn't notice any of those things, thank you for that. The dealer told me THEY repainted the hood, and some other various parts that were faded and in need of touch up...could be like you said, make it look shiny and flashy for a quick flip.
I know these are not the desirable years to have, but still cool nonetheless, and I was guessing maybe it was worth 18K with the brake upgrades and stuff, but I guess I need to go see it in person. Dealers will always be higher. I need to find a good car from a MOPAR lover like me, that will be a good, solid car that's been taken care of. I know how I am with my car, but I am saving my pennies for a older MOPAR!!
Click to expand...

It could be a great car, I just noticed that there are some inconsistencies. I would definitely want to take a good look at it in person. If it actually is a rust-free car that wasn't all bondo'd up it could definitely be worth $18k. I think it will probably get that much anyway just because its a Challenger that runs and drives and looks half decent. But really it comes down to how long the car will look like that. I see just enough issues with the paint that make me question the quality of the job. Its obviously not a upper-level paint job, more like driver quality. Which is fine if it was prepped and done well, but it could also mean that all the paint will fall off in two years like it did with my Challenger. Or it could be just fine. Even looking at it up close may not tell you that. I just tend to be a little more wary of fresh paint after getting burned on my Challenger.

But if all the metal is solid and the mechanics of the car look good, its probably not a bad deal regardless if you can work them down a few grand. Running, driving E-body's command a pretty good price, even if everything isn't perfect.
 

Unless I missed it all those pics and not one of the underside.
 
Old man ray said:
Unless I missed it all those pics and not one of the underside.
Click to expand...

The underside pic might explain that big *** puddle under it! 21K could buy a nice A....but Im not a fan of green E's or E's in general.
 
ledman said:
Is it not the correct flip top? The more I look at it, the more things I see, you guys know your stuff, you all have some good eyes, better than mine lol
Click to expand...

Something just doesn't look right. Personally, I like the recessed caps that are body color better since ir keeps the body lines in tact.
 

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