8.75 Rear End for A Body?

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Lelo Dart

Lelo Dart

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Getting ready to go look at a 8.75 rear end that is possibly for a A body. With all the conflicting info I'm getting I'm not sure how to tell. If it's not A body I don't want it. Does anyone how to tell by measuring and how exactly to measure (point to point). Ive seen so much different #'s I don't know what to do.:banghead: THANKS IN ADVANCE​
 
When measuring from the backs of the backing plates or housing end to end,should measure 52 5/8.Spring perches are 43 inches center to center.
 
And all the stockers had the 5 on 4" small bolt pattern with 10"X1 3/4" brakes.
 
Lelo Dart said:
Getting ready to go look at a 8.75 rear end that is possibly for a A body. With all the conflicting info I'm getting I'm not sure how to tell. If it's not A body I don't want it. Does anyone how to tell by measuring and how exactly to measure (point to point). Ive seen so much different #'s I don't know what to do.:banghead: THANKS IN ADVANCE​
Click to expand...

a 5 x 4" pattern would be another clue if it has axles and hasnt been changed.
damn you guys are fast lol
 
OK. Backing plates? Ive never messed with rear ends before (cars).:tongue3: :newb: Guess I'll know when I see it? If it has the small bolt pattern would that also mean it was for a A body?
 
crackedback said:
SBP axles 5 on 4" circle

52 5/8" flange to flange (housing only)

57 1/8" wheel mount to wheel mount

43" Perch center to center

There's a diagram on the net on how to find the bolt circle.
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
Click to expand...
Flange to flange, thats like where it bolts together? Also there are no brakes just axles, do you think that will be a problem?
 
Lelo Dart said:
OK. Backing plates? Ive never messed with rear ends before (cars).:tongue3: :newb: Guess I'll know when I see it? If it has the small bolt pattern would that also mean it was for a A body?
Click to expand...

A bodies are the only old mopars with a 5 x 4 pattern exclusive to the 8 3/4

Lelo Dart said:
Flange to flange, thats like where it bolts together? Also there are no brakes just axles, do you think that will be a problem?
Click to expand...

the flange would be where the backing plate bolts to
 
If it's clean and has good brakes/drum, open rear about $500ish for the top.

Housing only, means exactly that.. the housing only, no extra junk bolted to it.
If the axles are out and brake backing plates are still on it, add 1/4" to that 52 5/8" measurement.
 
Sedanman said:
Does anyone have the correct link for rear axle widths for all mopars?
Click to expand...






Mopar 8 3/4" Rear End Dimensions

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........................................

8 3/4" axle shaft lengths measured from the tip of the splined end
to the outside of the flange:

A BODY
'66-'72= 27 11/16"

B BODY
'65-'67= 28 7/8"
'68-'70= 29 3/16"
'71-'74= 30 5/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"

C BODY
'65-'69= 30"
'70-'71= 30 5/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)


IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern)
'65-'66= 30 1/8"
'67-'69= 30 5/16"
'70-'71= 29"
'72-'73= 31 7/16"

E BODY
'70-'74= 29 31/32"

A100
'65-'70= 30"

D100
'65-'71= 31 1/8"
'72-'74= 31 21/64

...........................................
...........................................

Housing widths, flange to flange

A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"

B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"

C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"

E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"

A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"

D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"

.........................................
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Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:

A BODY
'66-'72= 57 1/8"

B BODY
'62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 59 1/2"
'68-'70= 60 1/8"
'71-'74= 63"
'71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"

C BODY

'65-'69= 61.75"
'70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 61 15/16"
'67-'69= 62 5/16"
'70-'71= 59 3/4"
'72-'73= 64 9/16"

E BODY
'70-'74= 61 5/8"

A100
'65-'70= 61 3/4"

D100
'65-'71= 63 15/16"
'72-'74= 64 3/8"

........................................
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Spring perch widths (center-to-center)

A BODY
'66-73= 43"

B BODY
'62-'70= 44"
'71-'74= 47.3"

C BODY
'65-'73= 46"

E BODY
'70-'74= 46"
 
Just got back, truns out it is B body. Axle shaft 28 7/8"-perches 44". Wanted $350 told him $250 cause all the extra work it was going to take. Ended up driving off and halfway down the road he called me back said he would do 250. Its the 489 casting. Yeah and its the 4.5 bolt pattern. Did I do the right thing buying it? I mean I think it's going to be too wide. What all would it take use this rear end or should I get rid of it and keep searching?
 
That's the next best thing to an A body rear for your A body. It's a 65-67 rear. If you are going to get new wheels, they need a bit more backspace. That rear will move the wheels out about 1.25" per side.

If you have SBP now, they won't work on the BBP axle.

If it's complete with drums/brakes, not a bad deal.
 
Nope. No brakes. And the axles were unbolted also but you could push them back in. Gonna have to get new wheels cause of BBP, right? Are the brakes something I would get from the junkyard or buy them new?
 
Lelo Dart said:
Nope. No brakes. ... Are the brakes something I would get from the junkyard or buy them new?
Click to expand...

Well, it's your butt and your car, and anything or anybody that might be in the way in case of a brake failure. For me, I would much rather have all new brake parts!!

I can almost hear the other party's lawyer now..."And, your Honor, in addition to having built this home-made "muscle car" or as some might call it. a "hot rod" this irresponsible young man bought his brake parts from a JUNKYARD!!..."

But then, perhaps I exaggerate...

ATB

BC
 
you got a good price. big bolt pattern, larger brakes..its all good. :) cut the perches off, reweld new ones 1/2" inwards each side. if ur using an 8inch wide wheel, the backspacing you want is 5.75"
 
crackedback said:
...

If it's complete with drums/brakes, not a bad deal.
Click to expand...

I agree not bad, fair deal IF it had complete brakes and assembled since it's got the 489 case center in it.

Without brakes, you'll have to get backing plates, drums, hardware, parking brake cables, parking brake rods/braces. I realize a lot of that stuff should be replaced, but some are non wear. That adds up.
 
If you're not building a numbers matching restoration, then I think what you bought is going to provide you with better than a standard A-body 8.75 rear because:
  • 4.5-inch bolt pattern opens up a lot of wheel choices for you
  • go to 15"-diameter wheels and then you'll be able to use larger 11" B-body brakes for better stopping
  • As said before, cut the existing perches off but I'd weld new ones even more inboard so you can utilize offset shackles to maximize tire width if you're keeping stock rear wheelwells and not mini-tubbing
  • Money you saved in buying this rearend will allow you to narrow it slightly if necessary to put your chosen wheel/tire package right where you want it.
This is what I'm going to do with the B-body rear that came with my current '69 Dart project when I bought it.
 
i would box it up and ship it to moser. think they charge 125 to narrow the housing and 80 to cut and respline the axles.
 
younggun2.0 said:
i would box it up and ship it to moser. think they charge 125 to narrow the housing and 80 to cut and respline the axles.
Click to expand...

At that point, he could have saved money and bought a cheaper C-body rear end.

And I doubt there is room on the axle shafts to re-spline an existing 65-67 axles. There are certain C-body, truck, and van axles that are used for that process.
 
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