8.8 swap

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Ok will do. Here you go. If your axle is under the car, your prob closer than i am to doing a test fit anyways. If you can get yours and report back on length and fitment, that would be great. I may not be able to get to check mine for length this weekend. If you get to these folks early enough today, you may have em in your hands by friday.

67-71 A body rear cables

L/H is # 97368
R/H is # 97369

They also have the front circuit cable for 67-71 108" wheelbase cars. I dont have number for that one handy. Basically 67-69 cuda, 70-71 duster, 71 demon.

Bruin Brake Cables
Www.bruinbrakecables.com
1(224) 225 1009

See pic below for measuring cable lengths for anybody wanting them to do cables for earlier than 67 cars or newer than 71 cars.

Hope this helps
Matt

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I finally found a 1" -to 3&1/2" tubing cutter. Will prob buy it, along with some beefy U channel to jig up the tube for welding. Will likely put it with the channel up on here to sell after i make my 2 cuts, and weld it up.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I finally found a 1" -to 3&1/2" tubing cutter. Will prob buy it, along with some beefy U channel to jig up the tube for welding. Will likely put it with the channel up on here to sell after i make my 2 cuts, and weld it up.
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I might be interested in this set-up after you are done with it - dependent on the cost of course. I am also wanting to do an 8.8 on my Dart and this would aid me in getting it done.

ohhh BTW - also wanted to send out a quick Thank you for all the posting that you are doing - it helps us NON-Mechanically inclined feel a lil more comfortable in taking this task on for ourselves.
 
Its all good brother. Ya gotta start somewhere, then after awhile, you become the professional helping out the newbies. I love researching and finding stuff like the custom cables i got made, and possibly that Buell motorcycle speed sensor block off plate. I still need to pull my sensor out and measure it and compare to their measurements. I want to ditch that, and the reluctor ring (sensor trigger wheel) inside the pumpkin.

Thank you for the kudos. I am a sheetmetal structures instructor, and run a sheetmetal structures shop for a regional airline heavy mtx base. I try to spell everything out as clearly as i can in my posts to make sure what i post information wise is easily digestible. I hate looking at posts and trying to do whatever it was the post author wrote and stuff is missing. I have to fill in the missing info. and figure it out.
 
prican_2000 said:
I might be interested in this set-up after you are done with it - dependent on the cost of course. I am also wanting to do an 8.8 on my Dart and this would aid me in getting it done.

ohhh BTW - also wanted to send out a quick Thank you for all the posting that you are doing - it helps us NON-Mechanically inclined feel a lil more comfortable in taking this task on for ourselves.
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I may sell the tool and steel U channel for what i got in it plus shipping. But would be willing to do this only if it continues to make the rounds here at fabo for others needing to do this. Kind of like a community tool.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I may sell the tool and steel U channel for what i got in it plus shipping. But would be willing to do this only if it continues to make the rounds here at fabo for others needing to do this. Kind of like a community tool.
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Absolutely!!!!! That's a great idea!
 
Well after a bad day at work i was actually thown a bone today. I stop in at Texas Metals and Recycling after work looking for 3" heavy gage C channel for this axle jig. I went there on the advice of a co worker. Well sitting right there in the scrap bin as i walked inside was several nice, straight 3 foot long cut off sticks of it, and it was already painted lol. I told the guy i needed em to jig an axle straight to weld it, and asked him the price. He said .46 cents a pound. I went ok, i just need a 30" piece, well actually two pieces of this 15" long, and its gonna be a ***** to cut it in half. He went ahead and cut em 15" long in his chop saw, weighed em, and said oh heck, just take em. Said bring em back when you wear em out. I was shocked. So now i have the jig pieces to do this.

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Got the VSS sensor out to measure that motorcycle VSS blanking plug. He gave me dimensions in metric. I dont have a metric ruler at the house lol. Taking it to work to measure tomorrow. If its good to go, i will be ordering one.
 
Measured that VSS out of the explorer against the motorcycle VSS plug. No bueno. Will have to think of something different. Maybe use a pipe tap in the hole, and put a hex key plug in there.
 
Ok better idea, being that the motorcycle VSS block off plate was a bust. Dimensions wont work. i decided to make my own. I took the sensor out of the axle and cut the top off. The guts pulled right out. Bottom of it is solid plastic, no hole in it. I sanded the cut line smooth, gave the bottom half a good cleaning in laquer thinner. Sanded the inside of it with 80 grit, and beveled the top edge. Then i filled it solid with JB weld. When dry, i sanded it flat, and primed and painted it black. Viola my own blanking plug, fits perfect, no money spent. I will be cutting off the sensor protecting "ears" on in the carrier either side of it too. The good thing about this is that the hole in the housing stays unmodified. This way if later on an electronic speedometer is going to be used another sensor can be put back in.

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Has anybody else gone ahead and purchased a pair of the custom A body E brake cables with ford explorer ends on them yet? Post w part numbers and where to get them is post #626 at the top of this page. If you have, I am curious as to how you liked them.
 
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Cut the stupid looking "ears" off. Wire wheeled the general area around it with an aggressive wire wheel to rid it of scale rust and dirt, then a quick shot of rustoleum primer. Looking much better IHMO. I will probably leave the one strengthening rib on the left side, but may still cut and grind off that nub sticking out on the lower corner on the left side.

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Just an FYI the el cheapo tubing cutter on evilbay listed as 1-3" pipe. Will work on 3&1/8" i took a chance, bought one, said it was for up to 3.5" pipe, and may be, but its listed on its side for 3" anyways, i checked it, and it fits the tube.

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So i knocked down the strengthening rib that was for the VSS on the drivers side of the 3rd member a bit, and knocked off the nub on the lower left side. I think its now "muy bueno". I used this aggressive rope looking wire wheel on my angle grinder and went medieval on it to strip the rust and scale off. Then hit it with a thin coat of rustoleum rattle can primer. It will be going on the jack stands so i can do the bottom, then the rear cover is coming off so i can pull the axle out and get started with shortening the tube.

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moparmat2000 said:
So i knocked down the strengthening rib that was for the VSS on the drivers side of the 3rd member a bit, and knocked off the nub on the lower left side. I think its now "muy bueno". I used this aggressive rope looking wire wheel on my angle grinder and went medieval on it to strip the rust and scale off. Then hit it with a thin coat of rustoleum rattle can primer. It will be going on the jack stands so i can do the bottom, then the rear cover is coming off so i can pull the axle out and get started with shortening the tube.

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Looking good buddy. Nice work. Are you going to fab up a pinion snubber? I got in a big rush to put my boys back in and didn't do it. Figured I'd get to it.
 
Thanks.

I am really glad i cut off all that crap around the VSS and filed it to look like it was OEM that way.

Yes i will be making a snubber for it. I have a 7&1/4 under a cadaver i'm stripping out. I will use that and mod it somehow to pick up the 3 bolt holes on the R/H side of the 3rd member. I will use my 8.75 rear for my 67 cuda as a guide as far as how forward the bumper needs to be compared to axle center line, and how far up it needs to be from pinion centerline. May set it 1" taller to prevent spring wrap up. As with any project thats a new adventure for me i tend to chew on ideas for awhile. I may crawl under the scamper cadaver and pull that snubber, and sand blast it at work tomorrow then eyeball it up on the ford axle and let my brain "start a thinkin" up solutions.

Just cleaning it up a bit before dissassembly. I hate working on dirty ****. I been calling it my baby Dana 60. I know its not one, but with the unboltable cover its kinda cool in a way. I may get either a chromed cover or finned aluminum one for it. Will prob drill and tap a drain hole in the bottom of the carrier, or in the aluminum cover if i find one.
 
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I figured you probably would, LOL. That big old flat spot where the factory 8.8 snubber was look like it wouldn't be too hard. Post up some pics of what you come up with.
 
moparmandan said:
I figured you probably would, LOL. That big old flat spot where the factory 8.8 snubber was look like it wouldn't be too hard. Post up some pics of what you come up with.
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Sure will do. The OEM ford one was mounted underneath the flat part so i couldent just flip it over and use it as a base plus its all metric hdwr anyways. Prob going to fab up an 1/8" thick flat plate with welded on nuts to bolt down to the top and have something rest across and against that nice flat top part of the casting where the pinion comes out when its screwed down so its in constant contact at this area. I might even just make it adjustable height square tube with hitch pins, and just use an LCA bumper mounted on the top
 
I am thinking if its centered over the pinion, and against the housing, in a hard acceleration situation the bumper hitting the stop on the floorpan would push straight down against the 3rd member over the pinion, and the mounting plate off to the side is just holding everything in position. Not really any stress on it, or the ear off to the side its mounted to.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I am thinking if its centered over the pinion, and against the housing, in a hard acceleration situation the bumper hitting the stop on the floorpan would push straight down against the 3rd member over the pinion, and the mounting plate off to the side is just holding everything in positiin. Not really any stress on it, or the ear off to the side its mounted to.
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I was thinking the same thing. Shouldn't affect it being bolted off to the side like that. Considering the job it has to do.
 
I agree, as long as the business end of the snubber assembly is centered over the pinion area on the casting, and in positive contact with the housing there should be very little to no stress on the mating flange.

As far forward as the 8.8 pinion yoke sits compared to an 8.75 i wont be surprised if the bumper will end up sitting straight above that flat spot on the casting right behind the yoke.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Prob going to paint 3rd member cast iron grey, tubes gloss black.
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That will look awesome. You do very nice work. Patience is a virtue. One I don't have. Haha. I handed my son a can of something off the paint shelf and told him to get at it. I think it's black. Lol
 
I am just OCD about everything. Lol. For now though, i am going to shorten it, maybe make up the snubber, then temp bolt it into that 69 notch so i can make it a roller with the axle thats going in it, and ditch the 7.25 SBP peggy pegleg thats under it now right in the scrap yard.

Oh and with either a finned polished or chrome cover it will look tits up.
 
I wonder how many people went and ordered those parking brake cables with the mopar and ford ends.
 
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