This picture looks like positive camber too.
If you're okay with it, that is fine but it is terrible for handling and stability.
8.8 swap
- Thread starter Jakeofalltrades
- Start date
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This picture looks like positive camber too.
If you're okay with it, that is fine but it is terrible for handling and stability.
i saw that and i really hope it's lens distortion or angle of the shot... otherwise something is, uh... not right.
Just thought I should point something out...
I discovered over the weekend that 15 Rallyes with 4.25 back spacing will not clear the caliper. I'm not even sure that a 4" BS Rallye would clear. I put a few washers on the studs just to see, probably 1/4" worth, and it was still hitting.
Open to ideas...
I discovered over the weekend that 15 Rallyes with 4.25 back spacing will not clear the caliper. I'm not even sure that a 4" BS Rallye would clear. I put a few washers on the studs just to see, probably 1/4" worth, and it was still hitting.
Open to ideas...
Red_Duster
Well-Known Member
Quick specs for those considering the swap. With the aluminum diff cover and cut down 8.8 the fluid capacity is right at 2.5 quarts. If you are going 7290 driveshaft to 1330 rear, Spicer 5-7437X is the U-joint your looking for. The Driver side Explorer Parking Brake cable is almost the perfect length for the passenger side of an A-body. Oh, and with your springs offset 5.29 backspace is about perfect for me.
Good info.. I actually made the stock A body cables work, pretty easily. In hindsight, I probably could've left the springs uncut but they work fine.
Things Change.. Butters is now getting a 392
indirect_connection
Well-Known Member
It certainly did not have positive camber when I aligned it, but I have been meaning to bring it into work and double check. I have another project with low miles and the alignment changed quite a bit while sitting. Do poly bushings "settle"? It feels pretty stable at 75-80mph though!
No...alignment should not change except when you raise the front off the ground, then set it back down. Once you move the car, it will settle into place. If all the components are in good condition, the alignment will only change as the bushings and steering components develop wear.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Spicer 457C is the U joint that should work to hook up the ford yoke to the chrysler driveshaft
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I tried coming up with a pinion snubber that would work off the mounting flange where the pinion on the 8.8 is. Nothing I came up with I was satisfied with. I just bought a set of Lakewood traction bars. I plan on painting them black.
Frankbassman
Member
Questions for the group as I am getting ready to do this on my 73 dart 4 door:
Has anyone used these shock plates with the proper 3.25" U bolts? I am unsure if they will work with the 3 5/8 holt spacing...
Leaf Spring Lower Shock Mounting Plate Kit
likewise, what about these others, they seem like they would work without modifications...
Pardon Our Interruption...
Finally, did anyone that used their old 7 1/4 and a904 driveshaft have to cut the driveshaft down in addition to adding the spicer adapter and u joint, or did the original length work out?
Thanks in advance!
-Frank
Has anyone used these shock plates with the proper 3.25" U bolts? I am unsure if they will work with the 3 5/8 holt spacing...
Leaf Spring Lower Shock Mounting Plate Kit
likewise, what about these others, they seem like they would work without modifications...
Pardon Our Interruption...
Finally, did anyone that used their old 7 1/4 and a904 driveshaft have to cut the driveshaft down in addition to adding the spicer adapter and u joint, or did the original length work out?
Thanks in advance!
-Frank
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
My '88 Mustang LX 5.0 with 8.8 has a snubber bolted to the floor pan. I can't remember if anything is actually on the center section or not. When car was new under warranty the snubber bracket to floor bolts were loose and it rattled.
I added 1 extra clutch to each side of the Traction Lok then shimmed it so tight could barely fit cross shaft in. Traction Lok clutches can be changed just by removing cross shaft, C clips, and sliding axles out....
I added 1 extra clutch to each side of the Traction Lok then shimmed it so tight could barely fit cross shaft in. Traction Lok clutches can be changed just by removing cross shaft, C clips, and sliding axles out....
I bought new shock plates. Reused the 8.8 u bolts I believe, and shorten the drive shaft that originally was a slant six/904 drive shaft.
67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear
moffetkustoms
Well-Known Member
I just did the 8.8 install in my 73 Scamp /6. Mainly did it for the disk brakes but also wanted the limited slip, etc for later down the road if I V8 the car. I purposely moved the rear end back 1.25 inches to better center the wheels in the wheel opening. By doing so, I used the stock drive shaft from the 904 trans, used the flat flange/ yoke system that is OEM for the 8.8 and went to 3.08 gears for the /6. I used the Spicer interchange u-joint mentioned in this thread. Worked like a charm. Still have plenty of room between the pumpkin and tank. Lower u-bolt plates were fabbed out of 3/16 plate and studs welded to them for the shock mounts. Factory spec shocks still fit in the stock location without any interference.
moffetkustoms
Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention in last post- I also used offset front and rear spring hangers since I was welding on new axle mounts anyway. Prior owner of the 8.8 was using it for drag car so none of the parking brake components were there. Made my own axle brackets, welded to axle with ford Escape (I think) calipers with the park brake built in, then found that the Lincoln pass side rear brake cables were the right length to connect to the original mopar brake cable system. Works like a charm !
DusterMike72
Well-Known Member
Hey guys. so went through a few pages of this, watched a few youtube videos but i hear different answers. sorry if i looked over it anywhere in this thread but ive heard both that you have to narrow and you dont have to for a 8.8 into a 72 duster. it seems like the 72 is kinda the bastard year for some things. either way its my favorite. ive been trying to find a 8 3/4 in my area but can only find B C and E ones mostly. have not found a A body one. so thats why im kinda leaning towards a 8.8
Depends entirely on which wheels you want to use. The narrowed version of the explorer 8.8 is slightly narrower than an A-body 8 3/4, the stock width is slightly wider. If you're planning on staying with 15" rims then you probably want to narrow it. If you're looking at 17's or 18's, you probably want to leave it alone. Just depends on your plans and the wheel specs you want.
DusterMike72
Well-Known Member
well ill be mini tubing it and moving the springs inboard. i was planning on trying to run 18" demon style wheels. although i can only find them in 18x11" which i dont think will fit. there is a pretty reputable shop by me that can narrow them.
im horrible with wheel specs. i usually just buy something and hope they fit or make them fit.
im horrible with wheel specs. i usually just buy something and hope they fit or make them fit.
I centered mine up, if you don’t you will have an a terrible drive line angle. Remember your engine is off centered 13/8” to the passenger side, the 8.8 driverside tube is 3” longer. The drive shaft will be close to the tunnel and look funky. People have done it sure, I wouldn’t. I had 18” wheels on my barracuda for a short time.
loganscuda
This/These
I have 17s. Shortened the long side of the 8.8
loganscuda
This/These
18s will definitely look badass on a duster.
With mini tub and relocated springs, 18x11’s will definitely fit in the tubs, it’ll just depend on backspacing and axle length.
DusterMike72
Well-Known Member
well crap if thats the case i might have to shorten the diff if needed. just gotta pick up a diff then.
What’s the backspacing on those 18x11’s?
DusterMike72
Well-Known Member
well crap i just looked and apparently those wheels are 5x115 not 5x114.3. i thought i saw some replica ones that were 5x114.3 but now i cant find them. guess ill have to pick a different wheel. oh well im far from that part at the moment anyways
Not sure if its been covered,, but the backing plates on mine were rusted beyond use. I did a lot of searching for new ones and came up empty, except on ebay. They aren't cheap at $160 but come assenbled with caliper brackets, parking brake shoes and hardware. They bolted right on with no problems.
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