833 B to 833OD

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mopar373

mopar373

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I have an 833 Bbody trans and an 833 OD Abody trans. I want to put the OD gears into the Bbody trans. What else do i need to make this possible? I know that i need the OD shift rod for 3-4 and possibly the 3-4 bracket. Help please AL
 
B body trans and truck OD trans has the same forward shifter mounting pad and tailshaft
length. No need to swap any gears. Just install the OD with the proper linkage.
If your OD is of the short tailshaft variety for A body the main shaft won't be long enough
to be used with the longer tail of the B-body case.
 
ssba said:
B body trans and truck OD trans has the same forward shifter mounting pad and tailshaft
length. No need to swap any gears. Just install the OD with the proper linkage.
If your OD is of the short tailshaft variety for A body the main shaft won't be long enough
to be used with the longer tail of the B-body case.
Click to expand...

I think you are confused? You talking about something like gear venders?

I believe he's talking about converting an 833 into an OD box
 
I get the impression the o.p. wants to make a B-body OD trans out of parts from an A-body OD trans. So the end product will be a B-body OD.



if so, The o.p. needs the gears from the OD trans and an OD main shaft in B-body length.

The main shafts are different from a 1 to 1 trans and an OD.

The A-body OD main shaft is too short for the B-body trans, however Brewers has them in stock.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I get the impression the o.p. wants to make a B-body OD trans out of parts from an A-body OD trans. So the end product will be a B-body OD.
Click to expand...

If this is the case, wouldn't a fairly common truck 833OD be much easier?
 
rainy day auto said:
i get the impression the o.p. Wants to make a b-body od trans out of parts from an a-body od trans. So the end product will be a b-body od.



If so, the o.p. Needs the gears from the od trans and an od main shaft in b-body length.

The main shafts are different from a 1 to 1 trans and an od.

The a-body od main shaft is too short for the b-body trans, however brewers has them in stock.
Click to expand...

yup
 
65 Dartman said:
If this is the case, wouldn't a fairly common truck 833OD be much easier?
Click to expand...

Yes, sell what you have and get a truck OD, cheaper all around. Watch the shifter mount location, the truck OD typically has both the "E" and "B" body positions, and the bearing retainer. I like the cast iron main case, you can get them reasonable from Passon Performance or Brewer's Performance.
 
You will likely need a new Bell housing as well. The overdrive 4 speeds all have the large (5.125 I think) bearing retainer. You may be able to machine your current bellhousing to fit.
 
d55dave said:
You will likely need a new Bell housing as well. The overdrive 4 speeds all have the large (5.125 I think) bearing retainer. You may be able to machine your current bellhousing to fit.
Click to expand...

"Back when" and "way before" the internet, when we swapped 340 into what-had-been a 70 RR / 18 spline / sixpack, that is exactly what we did. Anyone with a large enough lathe can do so.
 
I could not fit the o/d cluster into any of my 3 cast iron non-o/d boxes. My cases would have needed to be heavily clearanced.
That's no-never-mind for you cuz the box can just go into the B-body. All you really need is a long O/D mainshaft, and bolt your B-body tail up to the A-body box. That's what I did.
Take it easy shifting into O/D, it's been my experience that, that gear is not very strong.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I could not fit the o/d cluster into any of my 3 cast iron non-o/d boxes. My cases would have needed to be heavily clearanced.
That's no-never-mind for you cuz the box can just go into the B-body. All you really need is a long O/D mainshaft, and bolt your B-body tail up to the A-body box. That's what I did.
Take it easy shifting into O/D, it's been my experience that, that gear is not very strong.
Click to expand...

I've done 3 or 4 conversions into a standard iron main cases with no problem. However, they were all Early "A" body main cases that had the low first gear and small 307 front bearing. It really tightens everything up. I do remember people looking funny at me, like it could not be done. Maybe the newer, 68 up, cases were filled in for more strength?

The long answer to the original question is: What is said above, plus be sure to take all the gears, cluster gear, and input shaft from the OD. Get new bearings, roller and needle; a new cluster gear shaft; thrust bearings; gaskets; and seals minimum. Another thing to be aware of is that the side cover and reverse lever are usually matched, so keep them together.
 
Yeah to the rev. parts, which is another reason I kept the box and its o/d guts together. Eventually I bought a Passon box, and cover. Nice pieces. My C.I. boxes were 69, 70, and 71.
As to the cluster-pin, I'm such a tightwad, if they show heavy wear, I just flip em over and regroove them for the woodruff key.
But I no longer use that O/D gearset. The ratios are just too wide for a 230* cammed 360.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah to the rev. parts, which is another reason I kept the box and its o/d guts together. Eventually I bought a Passon box, and cover. Nice pieces. My C.I. boxes were 69, 70, and 71.
As to the cluster-pin, I'm such a tightwad, if they show heavy wear, I just flip em over and regroove them for the woodruff key.
But I no longer use that O/D gearset. The ratios are just too wide for a 230* cammed 360.
Click to expand...

Yup, the clarification was not for you, you obviously know what's going on and why. X2 on the Passon parts, I think I have all the parts to put together a Passon Aluminum case 18 spline close ratio A body box. Very nice Parts.
 
66fs
So hang a GV on the back, and run 3.91s.Shazzam. And if you find a 3.09/direct4th gearset. Double Shazzam!!
And if you leave the GV computer in the box and hardwire that beast, through a reverse interlock relay, that GV shifts like lightning. You will not find the tell-tales in the blackies. It will bark the tires at 70plus. Ok, my S barks em at 70plus.
 
Thanks for the in put guys. I'm an automatic guy with lots of experience. If I can help any one out. don't hesitate to ask, AL
 
moper
I run a factory 340 clutch disc, right from MOPAR. They don't last that long (I mighta changed 3 of them plus a teener disc in 100,000 miles) behind my 366, but they are easy on parts,(especially that teensy O/D gear), are easy to modulate, and are easy on the pressure plate as well .The spring pockets give up, long before the friction material goes. When a spring pops out it vibrates, and then I schedule a replacement disc install. ( The teener discs aren't worth the install). Changing a disc is only about an hours work for me.
I run a Centerforce diaphragm pressure plate. Excellent piece. For street use I shim the plate away from the flywheel about .030 to .040. This makes it a kind of slipper clutch off idle, and let's me practically dump the clutch at 850 rpm with 3.55s and I power away. Modulation and driveaway is easy,and the disc lasts a bit longer, and then at higher R's the flyweights put the clamp on.Since I have been running thus, I have not broken anymore parts.
The Centerforce II is an excellent track piece, able to easily handle my street engine( at one time with the 292/509cam).
With the II disc, on the street and no shimmage, it would easily bark the tires on the 2-3 shift at moderate throttle, and often also dropping into 3rd at 4400 rpm under full throttle, which is 70plus mph, and with 295s.It broke a lot of U-joints and stuff. I pulled it.
So that piece transmits.
I run street-use only.
 
AJ/FormS said:
66fs
So hang a GV on the back, and run 3.91s.Shazzam. And if you find a 3.09/direct4th gearset. Double Shazzam!!
And if you leave the GV computer in the box and hardwire that beast, through a reverse interlock relay, that GV shifts like lightning. You will not find the tell-tales in the blackies. It will bark the tires at 70plus. Ok, my S barks em at 70plus.
Click to expand...

Plans are to run 3.91 Track lock Sure Grip in a 72 case. Iron case OD is fine with me for a street car. I'm already too fast, 140 mph+, for the environment here in SC and that is with a +.030 273. I doubt a GV OD is in the cards for the 66. Besides, simple and cheap is good with me. That's why I've driven Mopar all my life, no special parts required. Want to go faster? Bump up the cam and valve springs, get a good valve job, and start tuning. The rest is strong enough. How long does your 340 clutch disc last? You are running a stroker engine, right?
 
66fs
Just a 360/40 over.
The first McLeod3400 clutch disc didn't lasty very long at all. It was so long ago, I can't say. But I'll guess I swapped it out in spring of it's second year, so that might be 1.5 years and maybe 10,000 miles. That's a guess. Then I sprang the cash for a CFII. I only ran that disc for 1 or 2 summers. I found it just not to my liking. It worked too well, breaking everything behind it. So about the 4th or 5th summer I threw in an old disc I had laying around, slightly used, that I thought was a 340 disc. Well it popped the springs out quicker than ...It never made it to winter. So the next spring, that's now about the 6th?, it had a brand from the dealer 340 HP disc in it. It made it to winter but during the following summer(I guess the 7th now) it spit out it's springs. So that's when I came up with the idea to slipperize the CFII.After that, It hasn't broken anything, and I think since then I've only replaced one Disc; another 340 OEM disc.Occasionally, the CFII will slip a bit too much/long, if I take off just lazy enough, but as soon as the revs come up it's all good. Occasionally the flyweights don't all come up at the same time and then it vibrates under cruise conditions. I just pedal it and rev it up 'til they do.
The CF- PP,all-in-all is the best pressure plate I've ever owned. The CFII disc though, is on
the shelf, cuz it just breaks stuff.
As to camming; There comes a point that one more cam bump takes the vehicle out of the realm of being streetable and also a point where more cubes is just a better solution.
140mph in a short wb, narrow track, first gen Barracuda, is really pushing the envelope.

The GV comments were just to excite and entice. It was a very hard economic decision for me. But, in hindsite a great sacrifice. All muscle cars shoulda come with a factory 5-speed.Doing the chunk-swaperoo gets old fast.
 
AJ/FormS said:
66fs
...
As to camming; There comes a point that one more cam bump takes the vehicle out of the realm of being streetable and also a point where more cubes is just a better solution.
140mph in a short wb, narrow track, first gen Barracuda, is really pushing the envelope.

The GV comments were just to excite and entice. It was a very hard economic decision for me. But, in hindsite a great sacrifice. All muscle cars shoulda come with a factory 5-speed.Doing the chunk-swaperoo gets old fast.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clutch info, been collecting experiences for a while now. My favorite was the OEM big block BB 10.95 PP and Disc from Chrysler, but it has a very high pedal pressure (broken linkage and overdeveloped left leg muscles). Always a smooth engagement, never slipped or broke, and lasted forever. However, I don't think I want that high a pedal pressure any more.

I was thinking of other makes, where going High Performance requires more than a cam and valve spring change. 140 MPH in 64 Barracuda was no problem, straight, true, smooth as silk. You just needed plenty of "line of sight" in front of you. The Speedo went to 160 MPH and 140 MPH was plenty fast, requiring full concentration. Since my 66 is a street only car with plenty of power, the OD will work fine. The GV OD does sound sweet, at this point in my life it is not worth the extra complication and expense. I'm glad it suits you.
 
Got the brewers out put shaft, swapped the gears over, changed the clutch disc and modified the front bearing retainer, changed the throw out bearing. Works like a new trans. Special thanks to 66fs for all the help> AL
 
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