8k rpm ...

-
I can shift my 408 at 7600. I back it down to 7400 as it makes no ET difference. I Worked for the nation's biggest performance parts reseller when I built this engine. Buying parts at WD cost I still have 12k in this engine. It's a race engine I can street (barely)...not a street engine. Your 8k RPM goal takes away from every other thing you want to check off the list.
Chase a HP goal...Or budget....not just one "cool" parameter.

I have this conversation daily at BluePrint.

There's guys that run 9's on street tires and shift at 6k. Don't get hypnotized by one bragging point that ruins every other goal.
 
I can shift my 408 at 7600. I back it down to 7400 as it makes no ET difference. I Worked for the nation's biggest performance parts reseller when I built this engine. Buying parts at WD cost I still have 12k in this engine. It's a race engine I can street (barely)...not a street engine. Your 8k RPM goal takes away from every other thing you want to check off the list.
Chase a HP goal...Or budget....not just one "cool" parameter.

I have this conversation daily at BluePrint.

There's guys that run 9's on street tires and shift at 6k. Don't get hypnotized by one bragging point that ruins every other goal.

Best post on the thread.
 
I can shift my 408 at 7600. I back it down to 7400 as it makes no ET difference. I Worked for the nation's biggest performance parts reseller when I built this engine. Buying parts at WD cost I still have 12k in this engine. It's a race engine I can street (barely)...not a street engine. Your 8k RPM goal takes away from every other thing you want to check off the list.
Chase a HP goal...Or budget....not just one "cool" parameter.

I have this conversation daily at BluePrint.

There's guys that run 9's on street tires and shift at 6k. Don't get hypnotized by one bragging point that ruins every other goal.
Very well said, maybe its the allure of a stupid high rpm street car for no reason other than to do it
 
could be the best move
what YR says
big difference between 6>7>8k
we ran an external pressure relief valve on high rpm motors and a dry sump
High dollar super light rotating assembly so it not only rev's high but rev's quick
biggest longest pushrods you can fit
heads is where the power is- not just rpm
you can make rpm with no power up there
 

Here ya go, I found you guys a "stock" appearing dodge car to put that "dodge" engine in :)

Screenshot_20191124-193109_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
I'm with YR; give your head a shake.
Why the heck are you even thinking about this, for a streeter?
8000rpm in 2.45 first gear with 4.30s and 88s(28"tall tires) makes 60mph, so about 99% of the time, you will be in first gear, or downshifting into first gear. You will probably need a 5000stall Tc to not get caught by the stinking 59% 1-2 split, and to not to fall into the no torque hole below 30mph, where even a stout 318 will be right on your bumper.
There is no rear gear made, nor any Torque-Flite made, for this to be a street-combo, that won't lock you into an ugly rpm zone. Anything bigger than 4.30 will force you to shift before hitting 60, and then your car will lose rate of acceleration, and your zero to 60ET will suffer.. Anything less will lock her onto the rising part of the power curve, and your zero to 60 ET will also suffer. And of course 65=3355rpm at zero slip with that 4.30/88 combo, so that pretty much precludes driving it very far, which is good, cuz the lousy,lousy fuel mileage will become a thorn in your wallet,lol. And finally, reving to 8000 in second gear will get you to 102mph with the 4.30/88 combo so you just wasted one entire gear. The engine will not again hit the powerpeak until almost 140mph. You won't get there normally aspirated.

Here, IMO, is a better idea, put a 230/235*Solid-lifter cam in it, so you can actually drive it on the street, gear it to hit 60/65 at the top of second gear, and set the rest up so it will survive the occasionally buzz to mid 7000s, cuz it won't matter if she's fast or not, because the tires will still be spinning anyway. So then you can both drive it, and get your hi-rpm fix, and if you do it right, blow the 360s away.
IMO as a streeter, you want the power to be at whatever roadspeed you need it to be at. So if you need power at 35mph in first gear, then you co-ordinate the rpm and the gearing to maximize them to your roadspeed need, and build the engine to make power there. If you need the power at 45mph, then you set it up for that. And if it ain't enough power, you either get a bigger engine, or supercharge the one you got, or whatever..
But with an 8000shift rpm, I'm guessing you will get a powerpeak at 7600, so a torque-peak at say between 5500 and 6000 , which with 430/88 is ~43mph. A well planned 360 could (depending on your Convertor) eclipse your power there with a 235*cam and have more power at all lesser roadspeeds. While your 8000rpm engine is just getting up on the cam, the small-cam 360 is already on the powerpeak and getting ready to shift. So ok sure, you'll beat him to 102mph; but the big question is; can you beat him to 60? and if yes, how many times can you do it with only 12 gallons of the most expensive gas you can imagine, on board? Remember, it's a streeter and you kindof need to build it so it can still burn street gas, so that if you run out, you ain't walking.. and leaving your ride sitting somewhere it ain't supposed to be.

I'm with YR; give your head a shake.
 
Last edited:
Search Guitar Jones oiling mods. If you're really serious about this, you'll need to do all of that.
 
It was just like this one and I still have a new cover some where, one was a conversion from std pump to HV and used a std pump housing and the cover was cut so the long rotor would fit, I had a flat cover that bolted on a HV housing. Now that you said that I think it was about 3/4" I.D. on the tube.

View attachment 1715428043


Yep. That's it. Impossible to find. Even harder to find is the swinging pick up for that pan. And I have one of each!!!!!!!!!!!

And that's right that it's 1 inch OD and its either 3/4 ID or a skosh bigger.

The other thing I did was use a number 8 line from the OE pickup tube mount and ran that into that big, square pick up, making it a dual inlet pump. That thing would suck a golf ball through a garden hose like that. And at 8000 RPM and up, that gerotor pump needs all the inlet it can get, especially the HV pump.
 
Very well said, maybe its the allure of a stupid high rpm street car for no reason other than to do it


I'm as dumb as a box of rocks. But I've done it before so if I WANT to make power at 8000 plus I can. I know exactly what to do, and what NOT to do. BTDT.

Who knows...if Tom can't rail me in...maybe my W2 junker will be an 8k engine. I'm idiotic like that!! I'm already doing 12:1 on pump gas and Tom and I actually broached 12.5:1 the other day but I got cold feet.

I'd need to research it even more.

I can do 8k but why? I'll probably just settle for 4.88 gears and a 7500 shift speed and see if I can do a 401 inch deal, or if I'm really lucky a 406 inch deal and turn it 7500.

Who knows...I may go off the rails and build it to shift at 8200 just because I'm crazy like that!!!

You never know.
 
Best post on the thread.


Ok rusty...what happened to that entire series guitar jones did on his oil modifications???? I caint find it anywhere? Was it taken down (maybe). Have I lost my mind (most likely). Or am I just looking I'm the wrong place??

TIA.
 
Ok rusty...what happened to that entire series guitar jones did on his oil modifications???? I caint find it anywhere? Was it taken down (maybe). Have I lost my mind (most likely). Or am I just looking I'm the wrong place??

TIA.

You got me. I caint find it either. @toolmanmike ?
 
-
Back
Top