9 sec combo with 8.75...

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USCG CHARGER

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I see quite a few members on here using 8.75 rear and running crazy fast times... I know my buddy Tory and Brett Miller are running similar combos to what I'm going to be running stroked W8/W9 motors. They are both running mid 9's with 1.2 and 1.3 60's.... I also saw a lot on moparts.com running 8.75 as well... Their are 3 guys on yellowbullet.com that are running 8.75 and leafs that are in the 8's...

So my question is I want to do a triangulated 4 link but don't have the coin for a Dana... I do however have a nice 8.75 742 case 4.10 gears. Why wouldn't this combo hold up like everyone else's? To me the pinion 742 case looks beefier vs the 489 case anyways. I figure I can get new billet caps and back brace is and be done.

What are your thoughts? Are all these guys just an exception?

Jason
 
If you want a 4 link, check out RMS street lynx kit. The 489 is the strongest center, it's weakest link the crush sleeve on it but there are companies out there that sell a solid sleeve which gets rid of it's weak link. Cost about 80 bucks or so
 
I'd run it if I had it, break it then go out and buy a Dana. Probably not the most logical route though.

By the time you sell your 8.75, dont buy the billet mains/backbrace your half way to a Dana. Triangulated 4 link for a 9second drag car?
 
Check out RMS website. Lots of people drag that 4 link
 
I built my own Triangulated 4 Link with an 8.75 Rear. It is beefier than what RMS sells. My Tubes are 1.5" and adjustable on both ends. I am putting a TT 410CI SBM together for it now. I believe it should be in the low 9's pretty easily maybe faster?
 
Check out RMS website. Lots of people drag that 4 link


not for a 9 second car. bill says the limits are in the low 11's for that set up i believe maybe high 10's i don't remember. its not a strength thing. after that its better to go full drag 4 link.



my opinion on a 8 3/4 for a 9 second car is if you already have a built one then go for it. but by the time you put all the money into a stock one to make it reliable you may as well just buy a dana and be done with it.



.
 
not for a 9 second car. bill says the limits are in the low 11's for that set up i believe maybe high 10's i don't remember. its not a strength thing. after that its better to go full drag 4 link.

my opinion on a 8 3/4 for a 9 second car is if you already have a built one then go for it. but by the time you put all the money into a stock one to make it reliable you may as well just buy a dana and be done with it..

I guess it would depend on the use of your car. Multi-Purpose 8 and 9 second cars are a lot more common these days than they ever were before. When I say multi purpose I mean street driven with some occasional track time......Full Drag car sure I would go with a full back half and be done using a Drag 4 link or Ladder Bar set up. JMO
 
I'm buying that 4 link you have in your car Mad Dart... MY buddy will do the install for beer...lol... and company of course!

I just think people are quick to say buy a Dana, buy a Dana... After further investigation it looks like a 8.75 will work just fine...I will add a back brace and go play.. If I brake then I will take the next step.
 
I just think people are quick to say buy a Dana, buy a Dana... After further investigation it looks like a 8.75 will work just fine...I will add a back brace and go play.. If I brake then I will take the next step.

no one said the 8 3/4 won't hold up.. it can but your gonna have to sink money into it. by the time your done your in the area dollar wise of a dana. it makes sense money wise to go dana if starting from scratch
 
I guess it would depend on the use of your car. Multi-Purpose 8 and 9 second cars are a lot more common these days than they ever were before. When I say multi purpose I mean street driven with some occasional track time......Full Drag car sure I would go with a full back half and be done using a Drag 4 link or Ladder Bar set up. JMO


his post said nothing about a multi purpose car though.. with a multi purpose car there are always compromises that have to be made. its up to the owner to decide where.


I see quite a few members on here using 8.75 rear and running crazy fast times... I know my buddy Tory and Brett Miller are running similar combos to what I'm going to be running stroked W8/W9 motors. They are both running mid 9's with 1.2 and 1.3 60's.... I also saw a lot on moparts.com running 8.75 as well... Their are 3 guys on yellowbullet.com that are running 8.75 and leafs that are in the 8's...

So my question is I want to do a triangulated 4 link but don't have the coin for a Dana... I do however have a nice 8.75 742 case 4.10 gears. Why wouldn't this combo hold up like everyone else's? To me the pinion 742 case looks beefier vs the 489 case anyways. I figure I can get new billet caps and back brace is and be done.

What are your thoughts? Are all these guys just an exception?

Jason
 
no one said the 8 3/4 won't hold up.. it can but your gonna have to sink money into it. by the time your done your in the area dollar wise of a dana. it makes sense money wise to go dana if starting from scratch

That is 100% false... I have 35 spline axles already all I need is a back brace which is $50 lets say I do put billet caps on it $90 for the pair...Thats a grand total of $140.. find me a Dana that is cut for my Dart for that and I will give you my 8.75 for free. 8)
 
his post said nothing about a multi purpose car though.. with a multi purpose car there are always compromises that have to be made. its up to the owner to decide where.

multi purpose or not.. 9 second car with an 8.75 can or will it hold up?
 
That is 100% false... I have 35 spline axles already all I need is a back brace which is $50 lets say I do put billet caps on it $90 for the pair...Thats a grand total of $140.. find me a Dana that is cut for my Dart for that and I will give you my 8.75 for free. 8)


you already have axles and housing.. i said starting from scratch. hey you do wat you want man. i'm just giving you my opinion. your the one that asked in the first place. its obvious that you have your mind made up already so why ask in the first place. personally i think in the long run the dana would be a better choice. if you disagree so be it.
 
you already have axles and housing.. i said starting from scratch. hey you do wat you want man. i'm just giving you my opinion. your the one that asked in the first place. its obvious that you have your mind made up already so why ask in the first place. personally i think in the long run the dana would be a better choice. if you disagree so be it.

Well you said it would cost more so I gave you the facts about what I have... Do I have my mind made up... of course I do... can I change my mind... of course I can.. Is this a forum where people come to ask questions about Mopars? I think so...lol
 
Well you said it would cost more so I gave you the facts about what I have... Do I have my mind made up... of course I do... can I change my mind... of course I can.. Is this a forum where people come to ask questions about Mopars? I think so...lol



where did i say it would cost more?? thank you i accept your apology.. :)


my opinion on a 8 3/4 for a 9 second car is if you already have a built one then go for it. but by the time you put all the money into a stock one to make it reliable you may as well just buy a dana and be done with it.

no one said the 8 3/4 won't hold up.. it can but your gonna have to sink money into it. by the time your done your in the area dollar wise of a dana. it makes sense money wise to go dana if starting from scratch
 
Yeah... From my understanding Spooling it is the only way I can achieve the 35 spline axles correct?
 
I'm running a back braced 8.75 with a spool and stock caps on a 10.70 car with a 60 ft in the high 1.4s think its time for billet caps? I set it up and never gave it a thought it only has 3 runs on it now so I don't know about its reliablity. any thoughts?
 
Don't waste your time with the 8 3/4. Buy a 9 inch Ford with 40 spline axles. You'll pull the caps off with your motor. Don't chance a rear end or axle failure. You'll cry picking your car off the wall.
 
It's a function of weight at that speed IMO. If the car is heavy, you're simply putting off the inevitable breakage by using an 8 3/4 axle. I guess my question would be if you're building a 9 second car, why would you not use the strongest rear available? You can run pro gears that are race only and help absorb the shock, twist housing tubes, break the caps, shear the pinion, possibly hurt the transmission.. For what? A few years and some hundreds of bucks? You're spending coin on the suspension... Spend it on the rear axle too and be done with it. JMO of course.
 
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