904 torque converter dont fit..?

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hmm let me think about it. i am looking into all possible solutions right now. thanks for the offer.
 
RedFish said:
A machine shop could change the end of the crank but doing this with the crank in the engine and under the car would be very difficult. First finding the appropriate cutter then setting it up to cut on center...
time consuming if not else.
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but the outer hub is small too, hence the use of different flywheels from early to late.fwiw

so you'd have a very this ring left if you tried opening it up.
 
Hey, no problem. My converter is for an 18 spline input shaft and has a 1.55 inch pilot on the crankshaft end. You can count the input shaft splines and measure the crankshaft pilot hole to make sure it will solve your problem.
Bob
 
do you guys know where i can find the info to understanding the numbers on my transmission? i need to check for the build date of my 2nd 904 trans and i have a suspicion that it will work with my pre 1966 slant 6 motor.
 
you can look on the valve body...the year should be clear on both sides,and on your converter it looks like you could put it on a lathe and turn the hub down to the size you need...just a thought.
 
Count the input shaft splines. If it's 18, then it's 67 and earlier. 1968 and and later are 27 soline. There are numbers stamped on the case side of the trans where the pan bolts to.
 
but i'd just have the opposite problem right? instead of having the torque converter not fit into the crankshaft, the torque converter wouldn't fit into the transmission splines right?
 
mikebee said:
you can look on the valve body...the year should be clear on both sides,and on your converter it looks like you could put it on a lathe and turn the hub down to the size you need...just a thought.
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I have heard that the hub thickness isn't sufficient to remove that much material without either seriously weakening the hub, or that you can actually cut into "air" if it was machined thin enough, originally... in either case, not a good idea.
 
Bill Dedman said:
I have heard that the hub thickness isn't sufficient to remove that much material without either seriously weakening the hub, or that you can actually cut into "air" if it was machined thin enough, originally... in either case, not a good idea.
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i wasn't real sure about that,i thought the pilot was solid.i've done it the other way....new engine/old trans,and i went to a machine shop and the guy made me a ring that made up the difference.....took five minutes and worked great.i was just hoping it could be that easy for this guy.
 

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thanks for all the tips guys. what would i ever do without the info? give up? never! lol. thank again guys.
 
I ran into that problem before (old engine, new trans) and just had a converter built. A local builder made one for me out of two cores for about $95 wholesale for a stock stall. That was a few years ago but I can't imagine the price it too much higher now. The problem with swapping whole transmissions between pre-'69 and post '68 is getting the neutral safety and backup lights working correctly. You can't just swap the switch as the valve body is different.
 
i called up hughes performance and they are making me a custom torque converter for only $290.00 and it'll fit both the later 904 trans and the earlier /6 block. pretty cheap fix for the problem i'm facing.
 
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