I did up a set for the 1st. time, They still had the stock sized valves & flowed 268/198, Having said that, don't exspenct this to be easy, You need a steady hand & alot of patiants, A good size compressor, an inside mic., a few good bits & sanding rolls & a control speed air tool, The templets are fine as a "guide" but you'll need to go way past them for decent #s. To make the job much easier i'd just have them cut for the larger valves, this will take alot of the material out for you, just let the machinest know what your wanting to do & he can go deeper (in the bowl) with the cutter, here are other key areas for best results, just be "VERY" careful between the exhaust ports, thats where the water jackets are, If you don't feel like you want to tackle this, just invest in some aluminums & be done, exspect to invest a good 22-25 hrs. in them, Yes that much time.
Intake runners: Take the "pushrod pinch" area back .100", work on the roof some, you can raise the front roof "entrance" about .050", go back about 3/4", "DO NOT" touch the floors.
Take down the guide boss & the hump that goes in the runner, tailer this down & "tulip" shape or "teardrop".
On the floor of the intake port just before it enters the pocket is the "short turn", with the head flipped over as your looking into the pocket it'll face up, you will feel a small lip (ramp) running from side too side, you need to be "very" careful here, all your wanting to do is smooth down this hump but still keep the shape of the turn (no flat spots), use a lower cutting speed, don't go crazy here.
Exhaust: "DO NOT" gasket match the port, on the roof there is a ramp just inside the exit, tailer this down, I took about .070/.080" down, remember, flip the head over (chambers) faceing up, you will see the hump (ramp) just inside the exit. Theres water in this area too so be careful.
Exhaust pocket: Work on & tailer "tulip" down the guide boss as you did on the intake bosses, but there not near as hard to do, Other then these 2 areas just go past the templets some & stop, smooth the pocket & exit runner (whole thing). Smooth out with sandings rolls, "do not" polish the intake ports or bowl area. But you can polish the whole exhaust area if you want.
"Definitly" get a good valve job (3 angle) & get a 30* backcut on the valves, this alone is worth a good 8-10 CFM, If you really spend the time, I'm sure you can get 280/200 with the larger valves.
I would however get a junk 906 head & have at it, this way you know your limits, measure your depths.
Now that i've said all this here is the depressing part
, after all this hard work, these heads still have a bad runner, even though they may flow the same as another head, the port effiency still sucks, so the other heads will give your better ET & MPH.
My "honest" opinion after doing this, I'd never do it again, just freshen up the heads & invest as little as possible to clean them up, drop em on, get the compression to a "true" 9.6.1 or there abouts, good size cam/matching springs, SD intake, 750/850dp, adj. valtrain, good ignition, converter/gears & have a blast.