.990 torsion bars for 68 cuda.
- Thread starter mopardude318
- Start date
-
- Status
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
Just Suspension was running a special deal on those 1.00" bars for like $179 on ebay with free shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I like the .99 bars in my car. Been in there since 1993!
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
hey autoxcuda, how will those 1.0" bars ride compare to the .990. seems there shouldn't be a huge difference. im debating wether i should get them or just stay with my .870 bars with my iron headed small block...whatchya think? i'm rebuilding the front suspension with RMS tubular a-arms and strut rods, firm feel 11/16" seemless tube tie rods, and factory iron disc brake kit, newer style spindles with bigger ball joints, and converting from power to manual steering. i will add a sway bar later, cuz the lower control arms dont have the provisions for one. but i would like to get heavier torsion bars. wut do you think of my setup?
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
No real difference. I bet they vary 0.01 between them.
Absolutely do the T-bars before the tubular A-arm, tubular strut rods, and tube tie rods if you have to make a choice because of budget. Just run moog K7103 offset busings in a stock A-arm to get 4+ degrees postive caster. Your not going to really feel the tubular strut rods either.
Take the money saved from the tubular A-arms, tubular strut rods, and tubular tie rod sleeves and buy 1.00 T-bars and front Hellwig sway bar. The handling difference between those two choices is HUGE.
Don't get caught up in the fine details (hype) and forget about the things that make big impacts. Go after the big stuff and then go back to the fine detail improvements.
You can just run C-body tie rod sleeves (I'd get them from a junk C-body) and put that money toward the sway bar too.
Then save money for a Hellwig rear bar.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
autoxcuda. i already ordered all the other parts i mentioned...BUT, i took your advice and i just now ordered those torsion bars from the link you provided! thanks for your help man.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
I would seriously see about sending the other stuff back...
Torsion Bars and the sway bar are the real changes…
The other stuff is mostly magazine fluff that doesn't do anything you will notice.
Torsion Bars and the sway bar are the real changes…
The other stuff is mostly magazine fluff that doesn't do anything you will notice.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
autoxcuda...I ordered everything yesterday, so I am positive they had already shipped. I'd rather not go through and try to return everything so looks like I'm stuck with them, no worries though cause I was gonna use those anyway... I'll go ahead and get a sway bar maybe next week, or upgrade later, as my credit card is red hot, lol. I'm gonna make plates to re-enforce my lower control arms, and get it ready for a sway bar. any recommendations on which bar to use?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
just the stock 68 k-member...is that not a good idea?
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
The 73 up has better engine mounts and the sway bar routing is protected through the K-member. Also the sway bar mounts inward so there is room to run 5" plus backspacing front rims to get wide tires in the front. I've heard some 68-72 sway bars made for car without an original front sway bar are narrower and that won't be an issue.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
The 73-up k-member have a different idler arm, pitman arm, and centerlink, right? I'd also need the 73-up lower control arms...I'd like to swap to all that stuff, and I would if I had it, but I'm forced to use what I have...Maybe I could go to the pick-n-pull in Moss Landing and see what they have...?
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
Yes from the factory that steering stuff is different. BUT you can change the K-member indepedently from the steering gear and linkage. The 68 steering box, pitman, idler, centerlink will all switch over AS A UNIT into a 73-76 K-member.
I ran 73-76 steering box, pitman, idler, and centerlink in a 68 K-member (68-72 style) for years.
When you get the 73-76 V-8 A-body K-member, get the strut rods with it. IIRC, they are a little differnet length.
Hotchkis sells sway bar brackets you can weld to your current LCA for $29.95. Early or Late style. But they have them listed under the B-bodies. Same bracket used on both cars.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
OK, I will look for a 73-up K-member next time I go to the pick-n-pull. I'll run the 68 K-member now because I have it. If I run a sway bar with this K-member, I think I will have to shorten the links because of the forward caliper mount disc brakes, or I could just put the left spindle on the right, and the right spindle on the left, am I correct?
Also, what is the difference in motor mounts on the 73-up K-member, how are they different? Do they allow more clearance or something? Please explain...
Is this the item you speak of?
http://www.hotchkis.net/early_mopar_control_arm_bracket.html
And what do you think of their sway bar for 67-72 A-body?
http://www.hotchkis.net/6772_dodge_abody_front_sport_sway_bar.html
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
Yes, I'd swap sides. Sounds like everything is apart anyway.
The motor mounts are spool type in 73-76. They are encapsulated. The 72 and down A-bodies are biscuit of sandwiched rubber. If they fail they just split apart. You can buy mity mounts with a internal hook to them. But it's about the same cost as a junk K-member and parts store mounts.
Yes.
Very good. Hellwigs are also hollow/tubular and very good, price them out also.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I think I'll have a hard time finding a 73-up K-member...I'll post another wanted ad for that though.
I'll just get a sway bar for a 67-72 K-member. There is a couple different sizes/brands available, are Addco any good, seem to be the cheapest. There's also firm feel, PST, Just Suspension... Or just stick with the two we've discussed?
I'll just get a sway bar for a 67-72 K-member. There is a couple different sizes/brands available, are Addco any good, seem to be the cheapest. There's also firm feel, PST, Just Suspension... Or just stick with the two we've discussed?
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
When running the earilier K-member the addco stuff really sucks. That is what the PST and Just Suspension stuff is.
Get the Hellwig. The mounts are sooo nice. And the rear adjustable bar will help you dial the handling in.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I ordered the Hellwig front sway bar from summit. Ships on monday, be here tuesday or wednesday...
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
I saw you posted an add wanting a manual steering box.
You realize the stock manual box is like 24:1 ratio. Where as the stock power steering box is 16:1.
You can buy a brand new no core new gut 16:1 manual box from flaming river. I know it iron instead of steel, but still lighter than than a power steering setup.
I'm a power steering guy. It the car is setup right and the box is a firm feel there is plenty of road feel input. Much easier to drive in a autocross and with the wide tires a good handling car should have.
You realize the stock manual box is like 24:1 ratio. Where as the stock power steering box is 16:1.
You can buy a brand new no core new gut 16:1 manual box from flaming river. I know it iron instead of steel, but still lighter than than a power steering setup.
I'm a power steering guy. It the car is setup right and the box is a firm feel there is plenty of road feel input. Much easier to drive in a autocross and with the wide tires a good handling car should have.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Hello. I do realize the box is 24:1. My 70 Dart had manual steering, and I liked it a whole lot better than the steering in my cuda. I dunno why, I just liked the feel. It felt more stable, and sometimes the power steering in my cuda would fluctuate... LIke, sometimes it would get harder to steer...Does that make sense, dunno how to explain it really. It also seems I would have a little more header clearance...That Flaming River box sure is a nice piece, but I definitely can't afford that...
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 9,059
- Reaction score
- 4,161
I think I just might.
Did it have a Federal (round tube filler neck) or a Saginaw power steering box? I had a Federal in my Dart and if I did quick manuvers like a fast U-turn, it would fluctuate like that. My Cuda always had a saginaw pump and never did that, even in a autocross where you are constantly sawing the steering wheel back and forth....Well swapped the pump out of the dart for a Saginaw one. No issues since.
Yes, there is more header clearance. I brought up the Flaming River box, because the cost of a used one, then sending it to Firm Feel for a rebuild and then installing the 16:1 guts is nearly the same $$, maybe less...It would be something to consider the price comparison.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Yes it has a round tube filler neck, so I guess it's a Federal.
The Flaming River box is tempting. Looks like I'll be paying a $100 bucks for a used one. I could have my brother rebuild it with a new worm gear, but I'd still have to buy the parts somewhere...So, I'll look around...OR I could ask both my aunts and uncles to all pitch in for a nice Christmas present! lol...
cudaboy 67
Well-Known Member
hi, sorry to jump in, ive just ordered torsion bars for my 440 ci 67 barracuda, 1.18, yup, going for it! what shocks you reccomend to complament? cheers!
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
- Status
-
