A Body V8 Swap question

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While not an answer to any of your questions, is there a reason you want to swap out the slant six instead of just "hot rodding" your existing motor to get the performance you want? You said it's going to be a relatively mild motor anyway, and a hot slant is more unique than "just another small block" anyway... and it saves you from all the associated swap hassles and parts hunting.
A modded slanty is always an attention-getter at the shows, and the satisfaction of blowing off the Brand Xs with a six is always great.
Plus you'll be able to afford to drive the slanty a lot more often.
 
i have a set of dougs headers (never used) , a v8 center link and v-8 mounts that i've been meaning to put up for sale... gathered the stuff incase i found a 64 valiant i wanted. i'm at the point that i really don't want to build another car anymore. the dart is more then enough to keep me busy.
If you got some early A motor mounts I need a set
 
I've had a 340 in my 65 Barracuda since 1973. Manual steering, 4 speed. I blew up the 273 trying to drive home from Charleston, South Carolina to Cochran, Georgia in second gear after I broke the 3-4 shift fork bar-hopping one last time before leaving for Viet Nam. While my ship was in Nam, my Dad bought a junkyard 340 from a wrecked 72 Charger and had a local garage install it. With 273 exhaust manifolds. I wanted to run 340 manifolds. The 1972 center dump passenger side fit OK, but the driver's side hit the steering joint. I cut the outlet in the middle of the curve, turned it around and had it re-welded. Now it cleared. That setup lasted years until I accidentally did a burnout in reverse and broke the manifold at the weld.

Got another manifold. This time I just removed the cap from the joint box and ground the top edges. Now it cleared. No cover over the grease, but it didn't seem to hurt anything. Ran it this way for years.

Finally, after I learned that power steering and manual steering shafts were different lengths, and the power steering shaft was shorter, I got the bright idea to swap in a power steering column and use a power steering column to manual steering box adapter. This moved the joint back out of the way, and I could put a new box and cover over the joint.

As for the pipe, only way I could figure how to go was run a 2.25 inch pipe from the manifold down between the torsion bar and the frame and then back. That just cleared, and never had a problem with it.

Have no idea about power steering clearance.

As for headers, I now have TTI's. You want easy, they aren't it. They fit, don't leak, and don't rattle, but it's a lot of work to get there, and lots of stuff (wiring, clutch linkage, brake lines, steering column, etc) had to be moved/re-routed/modified.

Have no idea about how well Doug's fit. At the time I went to headers, I was under the impression that Doug's wouldn't fit a four speed, but I've since heard different.

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Let me say that before putting TTI's on my 65, I put a set on my 67 Barracuda. They were the easiest to install, best fitting headers ever. But the 64-66 engine compartment is several inches narrower. It wasn't even designed for a V8, and the manifolds Chrysler came up with to clear even for the 273 were really funky looking. At least on the driver's side. Single exhaust, too, these models never got dual exhaust.

So, I'm impressed that TTI (and Doug's) even managed to make full-length headers that will fit inside this tiny engine compartment.

Whatever exhaust you put in an early A besides the factory 273 exhaust or fenderwell headers is gonna require some work and thought on your part to really make it fit. I happen to think it's worth it, as these are wonderful cars. Just be prepared.
 
“Carburetor” not “carborater”

While not an answer to any of your questions, is there a reason you want to swap out the slant six instead of just "hot rodding" your existing motor to get the performance you want? You said it's going to be a relatively mild motor anyway, and a hot slant is more unique than "just another small block" anyway... and it saves you from all the associated swap hassles and parts hunting.
A modded slanty is always an attention-getter at the shows, and the satisfaction of blowing off the Brand Xs with a six is always great.
Plus you'll be able to afford to drive the slanty a lot more often.
I agree to that. I have a few reasons but I have thought about it and actually done some modifications.

I also have a 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca with a slant 6 is really good shape. So I have 2 slant 6s.

With that i have started to modify the 65s slant some. I ordered the TTI exhaust system for it, I will probably order the AussieSpeed long runner intake for it and a Holley 2 barrel carburetor to pep it up.
The reason behind that is in can always take it our of my 65 and put it in my 60. Even do some head work while swapping it.

I am noticing quickly that for the price of slant 6 exhaust ($600 shipped), the AussieSpeed intake ( $600 ish shipped ), a Holley 2 barrel carburetor ($550 ish shipped) , a performance ignition ($350 ish) shipped has me at around $2100 and make what 160HP .

OR I can buy a used 318- 360ci for $350-$500ish, a 904 trans for $200.. that's $700 and use the remaining $1400 ish for upgrades and make 250 plus wheel HP.

Yes i could turbo the slant or super charge it. But a supercharger kit is $4k plus shipped.

I could turbo it for a few thousand (turbo, piping, fuel management, turbo oiling pluming etc... but it would still get me around the same hp as a reliable mild 360, maybe less.

It would definitely have the cool factor, but that's where my 1960 would come in when I pulled the slant out of the 65.

At this point I'm asking all these questions from you all to see just how much time, effort and money it would take to do each idea.

I do agree, built slants are very cool
 
Yeah that's true, the distributor is in the front. I have a 69 Fury 3 with a 383ci in it with a tunnel ram twin carb set up on it.
With the right HP exhaust manifolds, it's alMOST a bolt in swap in your 65.
 
Hope you are using a solid engine mount on the driver side, due to the closeness to the brake system. I never seen a set up as this. Would the rubber plungers in the master cylinder overheat and melt due to the heat from the manifolds? Maybe a heat shield would be best in your app.
 
Hope you are using a solid engine mount on the driver side, due to the closeness to the brake system. I never seen a set up as this. Would the rubber plungers in the master cylinder overheat and melt due to the heat from the manifolds? Maybe a heat shield would be best in your app.
It wasn't as close as it looks in the picture. I ran it for years without a problem. Anyway, it has TTI headers on it now.
 

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