a puff of smoke and now nothing 69 valiant electrical issue

-
What is it that you are confused about?

How to read thee diagrams ?
That the mechanic said one thing but your observation show something else?
I am confused because the mechanic said he blew all the gauges. I tested power up to the fusible link and it was fine. IMHO I should have power to the car even if the gauges don’t work;correct? I am also wondering can you blow out individual gauges? The temperature gauge the needle is gone. I am having trouble finding the replacement cluster and the mechanic said that is where we have to start before finding out why there is no power.
 
He (your mechanic) is full of crap. Re-read my last posts. On an otherwise normally working car, you can pull the cluster out and set it outside in a mud puddle. Then bolt the red/ black ammeter wires together and start it up and drive it.

You need to please start reading my posts more closely. I am not bragging here, I know how this stuff works and I know how these cars work. Most/ all these mechanics may be good at what they do, but they generally are not familiar with these old girls

There are three or four major points that you likely lost power........the wiring to and from the fuse link AND THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR TERMINALS for the big red and big black wires, and possibly the WELDED SPLICE which is a few inches down the big lack wire starting from the ammeter black eyelet connections. Unwrap that harness a few inches until you find it, unwrap it and inspect. Also suspect the ammeter eyelet terminals themselves.

The power coming into the interior from the battery is the RED ammeter wire, and the feed off to stuff like dome lights and the ignition switch and headlights is branched off from the welded splice LOOK at the simplified diagram I posted. that well illustrates the setup
 
I am confused because the mechanic said he blew all the gauges. I tested power up to the fusible link and it was fine. IMHO I should have power to the car even if the gauges don’t work;correct? I am also wondering can you blow out individual gauges? The temperature gauge the needle is gone. I am having trouble finding the replacement cluster and the mechanic said that is where we have to start before finding out why there is no power.
OK. lets unconfuse this. You're right and the paid professional is wrong. It happens. Not all mechanics are good with electrics and even fewer know the power routing of some specific and make and model they don't work with all the time.

I'd look for replacement gages as needed rather than a whole cluster.

But your strategy is correct. Continue tracing in until you discover the break in the battery feed line.

Honestly, get a multimeter. It will make it easier and safer than using a test lamp. The advantage is you don't have to have the battery connected. Also you can check for continuity within various sections even if they are not connected to the battery.
 
I tested power up to the fusible link and it was fine.
So next check at the bulkhead connector.
upload_2021-3-30_10-10-11.png

Then go inside and do the same.
The fusible link bulkhead terminal has a seal so its not easy to back probe.
You can remove the connector and check the terminal OR go inside and backprobe there.
I recommend checking the inside first. That will be faster and removing the bulkhead connectors is a little bit difficult. You can come back to doing that after reading up on some of the tips to removing.
upload_2021-3-30_10-13-26.png



I am also wondering can you blow out individual gauges?
Easy!

Seriously when you see how the gages work and the board is laid out, its not that hard to see how one can get damaged and the others may not be effected.
 
Last edited:
He (your mechanic) is full of crap. Re-read my last posts. On an otherwise normally working car, you can pull the cluster out and set it outside in a mud puddle. Then bolt the red/ black ammeter wires together and start it up and drive it.

You need to please start reading my posts more closely. I am not bragging here, I know how this stuff works and I know how these cars work. Most/ all these mechanics may be good at what they do, but they generally are not familiar with these old girls

There are three or four major points that you likely lost power........the wiring to and from the fuse link AND THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR TERMINALS for the big red and big black wires, and possibly the WELDED SPLICE which is a few inches down the big lack wire starting from the ammeter black eyelet connections. Unwrap that harness a few inches until you find it, unwrap it and inspect. Also suspect the ammeter eyelet terminals themselves.

The power coming into the interior from the battery is the RED ammeter wire, and the feed off to stuff like dome lights and the ignition switch and headlights is branched off from the welded splice LOOK at the simplified diagram I posted. that well illustrates the setup
You definitely sound like you know what you are talking about. I will reread your posts. I am not mechanical but learning.
 
upload_2021-3-30_10-19-22.png


If the wires haven't been reconnected to the ammeter's posts, then there will be no power downstream.


Cavity J & P on the bulkhead, the starter switch feed, the fuse box hot feed, and headlight switch should all be connected. Several of those are fairly easy to access.
 
So far as blowing up the gauges it is easy to see how this happened. If the ammeter wire got to the common power supply to the gauges, yeh, poof. The path for that is ignition switch "run"---to the PC board connector---to the IVR for the gauges---out on traces to the individual gauges---through each gauge---and back out on the individual pc board terminals and off to the senders

So if the big battery/ ammeter wire contacted one of the points sending the regulated power to the gauges, it might have "killed" both of them.

There are ways to test them, "later." Get the thing to crank and run first, then the cluster
 
So far as blowing up the gauges it is easy to see how this happened. If the ammeter wire got to the common power supply to the gauges, yeh, poof. The path for that is ignition switch "run"---to the PC board connector---to the IVR for the gauges---out on traces to the individual gauges---through each gauge---and back out on the individual pc board terminals and off to the senders

So if the big battery/ ammeter wire contacted one of the points sending the regulated power to the gauges, it might have "killed" both of them.

There are ways to test them, "later." Get the thing to crank and run first, then the cluster
Thank you so much for your wisdom.
So how crazy is this? Connected ammeter wires together and jumped car, voila, started right up. Who knows other than the proverbial “gremlin”. Now on to the cluster as it is burned for sure. Board on back and two bolts look smoked.
 
3 pages later... lest it ant a boat anchor no more!! congratulations! now take the test light and wire pliers away from your son! i took heavy duty vehicle electrical systems 1&2 in diesel collage and still suck at wiring!!
 
If you can post a good shot or two of the rear of the cluster we might be able to give you some ideas IE Take two photos, maybe--of overlapping over 1/2 the cluster and post them both

So far as it running now that's great but "the problem" might still be there.......like a bad/ intermittent connecion in the bulkhead connector, etc. I would inspect that whole run through there
 
If you can post a good shot or two of the rear of the cluster we might be able to give you some ideas IE Take two photos, maybe--of overlapping over 1/2 the cluster and post them both

So far as it running now that's great but "the problem" might still be there.......like a bad/ intermittent connecion in the bulkhead connector, etc. I would inspect that whole run through there
i am going to be tackling that this weekend. There is actually a place locally that just redoes clusters. the back board looks burned as do two of the posts. Let's not even talk about the temperature gauge...lol
 
-
Back
Top