adjusting my vac

[crackedback]

now fix all your buggered up carb settings.

Just because it drops only 200 rpm, doesn't mean it's right yet, closer maybe. What's the current idle and the drop. You don't want the engine lugging to run when in gear.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

just fixed my post...in Park its at 950 and in gear about 750, should i bump park idle too 1k? and the carb screws are alot more in sync

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

bump

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Timed? Its locked out at 36

 

[cannucky]

Thanks to Crackedback and mopar for explaining how to do this in a practical way I have comps xe-268h cam in my 318 and after a year of driving the car is running kinda rough but i wasn't sure how and where I should start with timing and this thread has helped me a bunch -thanks again guys

 

[moper]

I stopped posting because I believe locked out timing is for drag race cars only and has no business on a car that runs between idle and various rpms on a regular basis...lol.
74 - Sorry I gave up. when you said "too many peolpe saying different things" you were dead on. If you think it runs good now, imagine what it could be doing if things were set up properly...lol. Factories used self advancing timing for a reason... It wasn't for emissions.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Thanks to Crackedback and mopar for explaining how to do this in a practical way I have comps xe-268h cam in my 318 and after a year of driving the car is running kinda rough but i wasn't sure how and where I should start with timing and this thread has helped me a bunch -thanks again guys

yeah they are the only ones that helped huh?

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

haha ya thanks Moper...it does run well... it has more vacuum in gear and a little more steady...Just need to fix my cooling problem

 

[Babyblue66]

I would've swapped the cam out a long time ago. After all the time spent and f-ing around. jmo

 

[cannucky]

yeah they are the only ones that helped huh?

Sorry miss . I had no Idea thanking people who's advice I actually used would offend someone else , I am sure many others of you provided a wealth of useful information .I prefer to spend my time in the garage as opposed to sitting at the computor and didn't actually read every post in the thread, I stopped at the ones that explained what I wanted to know and went and applied that . You Have A nice day EH!

PS . Mopar my car has the Vac advance hooked up so I mostly was looking at re-setting initial , thanks again

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Sorry miss . I had no Idea thanking people who's advice I actually used would offend someone else , I am sure many others of you provided a wealth of useful information .I prefer to spend my time in the garage as opposed to sitting at the computor and didn't actually read every post in the thread, I stopped at the ones that explained what I wanted to know and went and applied that . You Have A nice day EH!

PS . Mopar my car has the Vac advance hooked up so I mostly was looking at re-setting initial , thanks again

'MISS'
hey you know what?

stfu geek




read the whole thing? you don't care enough about 'quality advise' to read the whole thread , but come in and praise 2 of the 10's of people who wasted time trying to help someone whos already known for being an impatient smart azz..do you think before you post? or are you retarded from having a uncle brother for a dad?

'taken for granted'

if you can't get idle with a 268*, let alone set initial, you should just stfu.

Hope yer day sux azz
And I'm being nice.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

he can't even determine the good advise from the bad.

moper thought this cam should idle and run good at 16*?????????????

don't think so.

does that make moper a bad guy? no

but doesn't that let you know how good cannucky judgment is?

yep.

when ww2 ended did he[cannucky] thank hitler too?

 

[moper]

1wild, as I recall I said 18° would be my target and plus or minus 2° wouldnt change much. Because yes, i can get them to idle well with that. No big deal, just different opinions based on what I know and can do. Now, the OP showed some signs of our ideas perhaps being a little over his level of expertise. So a locked in ton of initial will make it easier for him to set the carb to get it better. That is next. But the context is a street car with a snotty cam. Not a race car. A sharp tuner can get something like that running crisp and great at all throttle loads and idle decently without racing the idle or overloading the starter. 74 has some room to improve on it. I'm sure he will.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

1wild, as I recall I said 18° would be my target and plus or minus 2° wouldnt change much. Because yes, i can get them to idle well with that. No big deal, just different opinions based on what I know and can do. Now, the OP showed some signs of our ideas perhaps being a little over his level of expertise. So a locked in ton of initial will make it easier for him to set the carb to get it better. That is next. But the context is a street car with a snotty cam. Not a race car. A sharp tuner can get something like that running crisp and great at all throttle loads and idle decently without racing the idle or overloading the starter. 74 has some room to improve on it. I'm sure he will.

I'm not saying it wouldn't run, or that you couldn't get it to run with that initial.
I'm just saying it wouldn't run as well as it would via kick back method, which is fact.
I've been running the same small starter for 7 yrs no problems.fwiw

I wasn't bashin on ya btw, you sharp tuner you:toothy10:

 

[moper]

lol... I know you're not. And please don't feel i'm bashing you guys. That beign said I'm not backing off my assertion that your "fact" is your perception of "fact". Or rather that your "fact" of your car and others you worked on running better that way is a very small, undocumented by science... fact...lol.

Or basically, we have different opinions of what constitues "fact"...lol.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

It's what you have to work with most of the time.
Still If there was tons of $$$$$ and everything was perfectly matched, the kick back method would still make more power.'JMO'

 

[crackedback]

If you think it runs good now, imagine what it could be doing if things were set up properly...lol.

Please, do tell... Here's your platform.

No doubt the carb settings are likely all over the map.

As mentioned, it might run at 16-20 initial, it will run better with more is my opinion. IMO, it will never run as crisp, or as crisp as it could, with 16-20* initial. Sure he could put it at 20*, even more than 20*, and dial in 8-10* mech or whatever. This thing doesn't kickback at 36*, what's that tell you?

Ask any good smog tech if timing makes a difference in emissions profile.

Have a good one.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

'MISS'
hey you know what?

stfu geek




read the whole thing? you don't care enough about 'quality advise' to read the whole thread , but come in and praise 2 of the 10's of people who wasted time trying to help someone whos already known for being an impatient smart azz..do you think before you post? or are you retarded from having a uncle brother for a dad?

'taken for granted'

if you can't get idle with a 268*, let alone set initial, you should just stfu.

Hope yer day sux azz
And I'm being nice.

ur calling me a impatient smart ***? or him?

 

[w2360Duster]

change the cam...LOL

Agreed..... the car will NEVER have a satisfactory idle in gear even if the timing is locked at 36* (Burnt74... that means 36* of timing weather it be 1100rpm or 6500rpm) the camshaft just has too much duration. Yes its possible putting .032 valve lash could help along with maximum timing and a proper power valve but.... the camshaft is just too big, put the dam thing in neutral at stop lights like the rest of us LOL!

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

ha aha ha ha...

 

[moper]

I feel theres a great amount of room to improve. I've already said as a race engine, there is a perfect single amount of timing. Not so on a street car...
I have years as an ASE Master tech and I got the engine performance certification when they first introduced it in the early 90s when I was 20. I've got plenty of emissions setup experience with hundreds of carbureted street cars including my own. That's why I disagree with you guys on the setup. I also noted that no car manufacturer agrees with your ideas and I think that's far more telling than my opinions. Some class racers might agree with you, but that's due to a "one throttle setting" environment the engines run in combined with convertors, gearing, and rpm windows that are beyond the rpm and load areas where a timing curve as opposed to locked is better. OP has a street driven car with a cam that does not like low rpm. So having a curve is more crutial than a car with a milder cam or one that has a convertor that stalls above 3000 and 4.56 gears.

 

[crackedback]

Give him a set up and a curve. 74 doesn't appear to currently have the mechanical ability for this stuff.

I'm not discussing what the manufacturer might, would or should do, it's this specific case. He basically has a race type setup without some of the correct complimentary items.

IMO, this build is a cluster****. Wrong parts all around and needs band-aids to get it to run, timing being one of those bandaids.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

mechanical ability? or Mechanical knowledge??? Ive done all the work on this car myself....I would agree on the knowledge part, but I disagree on the mechanical ability part...once again I followed the instructions of a pro. engine builder...it wasn't my choice I just gave him my setup and thats what he did with it...Also the same guy that was in Mopar Muscle engine build with a 500hp 318 all motor

 

[crackedback]

My comment wasn't a slap at you...

IMO your engine builder didn't do you any favors regardless of what he's built in the past. Have you done a compression test on it when warm?

Try mopers way, set it to 18-20* with it locked out and see if you can get it to idle.

Hope it's currently running better.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

ok... No I haven't Tried a compression test on it when its warm...and I know the 18-20 initial wont run right because thats what I had it set at...It runs great right now and Im not touching it...I do Realize the cam is too big but All I need to so is stroke it and it will run better or change the cam, but I rather keep going up in HP then go down, but the last time I did do a compression test I believe each cylinder was at around 180-190 dont remember