Advantages of aftermarket upper:lower control arms

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RustyRatRod said:
How much of a friggin can you take from an accident that was the cost of using cheap suspension parts?
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Agreed. However, the BIG question (as always) that needs to be answered (and rarely is) is, "What are the plans for your car?????" If you just want a car that will handle nicely, call @PST and get a complete Poly rebuild kit for the front and a sway bar. If you want more, go with racing type parts (tubular). I have PST rebuilt front end with a sway bar and NO tubular stuff, and I am VERY happy with how my car handles. Would I take it to any kind of a road race around pylons? No! But I see little sense in spending a bunch of money on suspension upgrades that are WAY beyond what you want or need.
 
harrisonm said:
Agreed. However, the BIG question (as always) that needs to be answered (and rarely is) is, "What are the plans for your car?????" If you just want a car that will handle nicely, call @PST and get a complete Poly rebuild kit for the front and a sway bar. If you want more, go with racing type parts (tubular). I have PST rebuilt front end with a sway bar and NO tubular stuff, and I am VERY happy with how my car handles. Would I take it to any kind of a road race around pylons? No! But I see little sense in spending a bunch of money on suspension upgrades that are WAY beyond what you want or need.
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Well with this guy, his plans will change next week.
 
I think the point is, rather than blindly making purchases which most people do, I try to explain what each part does to help make educated decisions. Not many vendors have real world experience as a car owner, competitor and builder like BAC does.
 
72bluNblu said:
That’s actually not a good way to execute that cut.

A smooth cut with a radius like I showed is the way to do it. The UCA is tubular anyway, the square corner does not improve the clearance any but it does provide a place for a crack to start.
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Thanks for the input. I will round out the bottom of the cut, since I am still at that stage of the build. However, there is still a slight return at the top of the cut. I really didn't have to cut much at the top. My control arm support looked somewhat different from the one shown in your photo.
 
TheContractorDude said:
Thanks for the input. I will round out the bottom of the cut, since I am still at that stage of the build. However, there is still a slight return at the top of the cut. I really didn't have to cut much at the top. My control arm support looked somewhat different from the one shown in your photo.
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Sounds good!

Yeah they all look a little different. I’ve seen some with lots of extra material there and some with very little at all, both clearly being unmodified. I don’t think Ma mopar was too worried about exactly how much of that mounting tab was folded over and welded. At least not until they issued a TSB about them cracking. There’s a factory fix/gusset that was prescribed for cars that developed cracks in that area.
 
I purchased a set of PST's had them a couple of years and had a issue with them called and they sent out a new set before I even shipped them back. Greatest service I've ever seen. Thanks to PST.
 
TheContractorDude said:
Thanks for the input. I will round out the bottom of the cut, since I am still at that stage of the build. However, there is still a slight return at the top of the cut. I really didn't have to cut much at the top. My control arm support looked somewhat different from the one shown in your photo.
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Here's the TSB info on that showing the gusset, it's over at hamtramck-historical. The links will show the full size version. This shows the issue on the opposite side from what is usually needing clearance for the narrow "V" shaped uca's, but it would work for both sides and you can imagine that cutting the mount back too severely could cause cracking at the other side.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page1.jpg
02-08A-73C page1.jpg


https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page2.jpg
02-08A-73C page2.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
Here's the TSB info on that showing the gusset, it's over at hamtramck-historical. The links will show the full size version. This shows the issue on the opposite side from what is usually needing clearance for the narrow "V" shaped uca's, but it would work for both sides and you can imagine that cutting the mount back too severely could cause cracking at the other side.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page1.jpg
View attachment 1715739106

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page2.jpg
View attachment 1715739107
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I’ve seen and repaired cracked on both my 68 Dart and 68 Barracuda. Back in the 90’s when I’d see Abodies in the junkyards I’d see many other cracked ones

clean and wire brush this area on your A-body and you might see a small crack.
 
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72bluNblu said:
Here's the TSB info on that showing the gusset, it's over at hamtramck-historical. The links will show the full size version. This shows the issue on the opposite side from what is usually needing clearance for the narrow "V" shaped uca's, but it would work for both sides and you can imagine that cutting the mount back too severely could cause cracking at the other side.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page1.jpg
View attachment 1715739106

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-08A-73C page2.jpg
View attachment 1715739107
Click to expand...
Wow thanks for the information I really appreciate the input. The last thing I want to do is to hack up my front end.
 
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