Advice on Changing Pads in a Parking lot

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HTMLmopars

HTMLmopars

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So I decided it was a good idea to take my 68 with me to college, and I went out today to check a grinding coming from my front passenger brake. Turns out I should've replaced the pads a few hundred miles ago (like maybe at home where I have tools). Anyways, now I need to get the new pads in, I've got the factory Kelsey-Hayes calipers, and I need to compress the pistons to get the new pads in. I have very few tools, and I'd like to do this without buying a bunch of new ones, but I'll do what I have to. I'd like to avoid pulling the caliper off, because I don't have a big enough socket here to get on the bolts. Any suggestions are welcome!
 
I'm not familiar with kh, but pretty sure you gotta pull the calipers whether you like it or not.

I just rested the pistons on something hard like the rotor and pushed the caliper to push them in, or push the caliper back n forth on the pins/ways to get started and then rock/pry the caliper on the rotor to retract them.
 
Or use a screwdiver between the pad and the rotor and pry them back, done that a few times, not familiar with KH either.
 
I once did a brake job on my Ram while hunting. I knew I would have some down time between Morning and Evening hunts so I brought all the parts (Rotors and pads) , my tools and a jack... I always bring tools anyway. EZ-PEEZEY...

Use the screwdriver to pry pads away from rotors. You might have to crack the bleeders while prying to get them to stay open.
 
Small cheap C-clamp once caliper is off will compress piston into caliper.
Im not familiar with KH but should be an easily doable job.
You will need to loosen bleeder to compress.
 
I think the issue is the bolts on the calipers for him, do those pads hold in with pins? Might be doable then one pad at a time so the pucks stay in.
 
You need to hold one set of pistons "still" while pushing the other pair back down into the caliper housing. Failure to hold one pair steady while working the other pair will cause BIG trouble, you could blow the pucks right out of their bores; then you need to hold that pair steady while you work the other pair. You might be able to use 2 small to medium sized "C" clamps and the steel backing plates of the old pads.

Hope this helps.
 
Remember the KH calipers are 4 piston calipers. a bit trickier than the Moraine single piston calipers. If you push one piston back the other 3 push out. LOL
 
Leave the caliper alone, you don't hafta remove it from the spindle, or top of the rotor.
Remove the pad hold down clips, on top of the caliper.
Get out a big, decent sized screwdriver to use as a pry bar.
Pry between pad side and the rotor.
Push the pistons on that side back into their bores, fully.
Install that side brake pade that you just took out.
Do the same thing to the second pad in the caliper.
Easy, peasy, to just repad one of those brake systems.

Let me add, DON'T bust those little 1/4 inch diameter bolts, that hold the pad hold down clips in place.
Then your really going to be screwed, up ***** creek, without a paddle, in a strong head wind.
You then won't have any way to keep the pads in place.
 
Last edited:
hemi71x said:
Leave the caliper alone, you don't hafta remove it from the spindle, or top of the rotor.
Remove the pad hold down clips, on top of the caliper.
Get out a big, decent sized screwdriver to use as a pry bar.
Pry between pad side and the rotor.
Push the pistons on that side back into their bores, fully.
Install that side brake pade that you just took out.
Do the same thing to the second pad in the caliper.
Easy, peasy, to just repad one of those brake systems.
Click to expand...
I was hopeing you would stop by to let us know how. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm waiting for it not to be 90+ degrees outside, then I'll try to loosen the bleeder screw (i think thats the key) and pop the top from the master cylinder. I'll try the screwdriver method, if that doesn't work, I'll grab those c clamps. I'm actually fairly familiar with the KH calipers, I had to replace them after losing a pad at 70 mph (hyperextended its piston, real fun story at parties)
 
68Valiant225 said:
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm waiting for it not to be 90+ degrees outside, then I'll try to loosen the bleeder screw (i think thats the key) and pop the top from the master cylinder. I'll try the screwdriver method, if that doesn't work, I'll grab those c clamps. I'm actually fairly familiar with the KH calipers, I had to replace them after losing a pad at 70 mph (hyperextended its piston, real fun story at parties)
Click to expand...

How the hack did that ever happen?
Thats the job of the pad hold down clips, from keeping the pad(s) from moving away from the top of the rotor.
 
Where are you going to school?
There are FABO members everywhere... Maybe one thats close to you and willing to help. Or at least provide tools.
 
hemi71x said:
How the hack did that ever happen?
Thats the job of the pad hold down clips, from keeping the pad(s) from moving away from the top of the rotor.
Click to expand...
It was about 4 months after I got the car on the road, I hadn't touched the brakes, they worked, no reason to look at em. Basically some previous owner had replaced the pads, driver's side was fine, but the passenger side the pads were upside-down and the clips were nowhere to be found. Miracle that they stayed in as long as they did. I was driving I-5 towards Seattle at like 3pm, and heard what I later realized was the pad hitting the floor pan, which was a concerning enough sound to make me pull over. Realized I didn't have brakes so I used the trans to slow down (and my little brother for the final stop). Brand new calipers and a month of on and off work and she's been fine till now.
 
Dell (67Dart273) is in Spokane and has lots of time on his hands....lol
And guaranteed he knows how to do the job. In return you could do some heavy lifting when he needs it.
 
mbaird said:
Dell (67Dart273) is in Spokane and has lots of time on his hands....lol
And guaranteed he knows how to do the job. In return you could do some heavy lifting when he needs it.
Click to expand...
I'm going to try it myself tonight, just see if I can get it armed with new knowledge, but its great to know there's so many of yall out there
 
my bad ... he is in Couer d laine...but close.
I know there are a few guys in Spokane here.
 
So, I got the passenger side back together, I ended up almost completely rounding off the hex on the bleeder, so I had to back out the crossover line to get the pistons compressed enough to get the new pads it. In was a huge pain, but I think I should be good to do the same thing on the drivers' side. As long as I don't let the reservoir drop very low, I won't need to go through and bleed them?
 
I'm in Coeur d Alene, and am now working 4-5 days a week. My day(s) off is in question as they/ I are doing training. "IF I" could get over there I'd be happy to help

"Dion" is over there but I think he travels to work out of town

I don't understand the bleeding / opening the lines.......you SHOULD be able to back the pistons up into the caliper and that should drive MORE fluid back up into the master. You MAY have to carefully take some out. Without adequate tools, you could use a finger over a big straw or even a CLEAN spoon

You should NOT have to either bleed, nor add fluid.

===================

One issue however, is the rotors.....if they are worn uneven or "down to metal" they should be turned if they are not too thin. I DO HAVE a drum/ disc turning machine.
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm in Coeur d Alene, and am now working 4-5 days a week. My day(s) off is in question as they/ I are doing training. "IF I" could get over there I'd be happy to help

"Dion" is over there but I think he travels to work out of town

I don't understand the bleeding / opening the lines.......you SHOULD be able to back the pistons up into the caliper and that should drive MORE fluid back up into the master. You MAY have to carefully take some out. Without adequate tools, you could use a finger over a big straw or even a CLEAN spoon

You should NOT have to either bleed, nor add fluid.

===================

One issue however, is the rotors.....if they are worn uneven or "down to metal" they should be turned if they are not too thin. I DO HAVE a drum/ disc turning machine.
Click to expand...

I was trying to force the fluid back into the MC, but it was just pushing the other pistons out. I let a little bit of fluid out and that gave me the room I needed. Are you saying that I should take fluid out of the MC, in order to reduce the pressure due to gravity in the lines?
 
No only take fluid out if pushing the pistons in overfills it. You need to find a way to block the other pistons "by any means." Clamps, wedges, "popsickle sticks" lOL
 
My problem was not having enough leverage to move the piston that was compressing. The old pads work pretty well for blocking, and I was nervous to put something thinner in. I'd rather add some fluid than extend a piston was my logic
 
Use a 6 point 3/8 socket, on the bleeder screw to reduce the chance of rounding off the head on the bleeder.

I replied earlier hoping that you wouldn't break off the bolts holding down the pad clips, but i guess you removed them ok without snapping the head of them off.
Those things are the ones that usually break, if your working on a car that went through lots of winters.
But bleeder screws rust up, seize up also.

I don't think you followed instructions in retracting pistons back into their bores.
You leave one side of the old pad in the caliper, to keep them from coming out, while you compress the other two, on the rotor side that your working on.
Then put in that new pad on that side, then do the other.

Sounds like you went metal to metal on the rotor(s) so your only doing a half assed job anyway by just replacing pads, without machining the rotors, or replacing them, if they are undersize.
But anyway, replacement pads will at least get you back on the road again, and at least stop, other than being metal to metal.
 
Pads wont last long on fubar rotors.
That being said,remove one pad, replace it then pump up brakes. Replace next one and so on. This way you minimize the amount of fluid displaced back to resevoir.
Theoretically you shouldnt have a problem with fluid, unless it was topped off as pads wore down.

All new pads and new rotors reservoir filled then it should never need topping up. Low fluid indicates worn pads or a leak.

a goood mathemagician could calculate the volumes of calipers and resevoir and have an indicator when pads need replacing, that is if they all wear evenly.
 
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