advice on heads

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trudysduster

trudysduster

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ok guys, I am getting into something here I haven't done in a long long time. I know things have changed in the last 40 years so I need help here. On the 73 Dart Sport I have it has a completely factory stock 360 in it. I am getting ready to put the Comp Cam XE268 cam in it. I am also going to do something with the heads. Right now I think it has the factory J heads on it. Machine shop priced me $820 to go through these heads and put 2.02/1.60 valves and do all that is needed to beef them up. For that I am looking to put some new heads on it. What do I need that would be the best bang for the buck. Edelbrock 60779 or 60179 heads. How about the Speedmaster. should I find some X heads and have them rebuilt. Also what CC heads should I look for. This is a completely stock bottom end. I honed the engine and replaced the rings and bearings when I put the engine in about 2 years ago. I know nothing about heads and what to look for. I just know how to swap them. What are your opinions as what to put on this engine. With the heads and new cam I am looking to get about 400 HP out of this engine. Thanks, Bill
 
talk to mike at MRL , probably the EQ la type head, should be a bolt on and flow much better than stock , not to mention the great design of the combustion chamber.
 
Bill, tis is where I have allways said that sometimes a aluminum head just isn't worth the cost. After all, you'll have a machinist look at and correct the $850 per head (from Summit --> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60779/overview/ )

IMO, IF you have an issue with the OE heads OR if you just simply WANT aluminum heads, then use then go that route.I don't see a problem with the OE iron heads being done. Just have a competition valve job done and let'er rip.The amount of flow on the low lift end of the head is where the power is at. Consider the valve lift as per cam specs.

For a comparitive... (Iron head vs. new aluminum and corrective costs) here is what this fella charges and gets you for $750 worth of porting. Of course, new valves and decking the head, valve guides are extra, but I think you'll get the point on the heads flow vs. cost. Shiping iron is a killer. BUT if your local guy can port a head well, then there is a big cost savings by the local guy and $750 in porting is not actually needed with that cam.

http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/jhead.htm
 
Honestly, with your cam and goals in mind... Just pick one. Any head will do what you want and work with your pistons. Most aftermarket will need a little work and parts to work well on your engine. Aluminum will add a little compression (not so you'll notice that but they will) and will take a chunk of weight off the nose. But cost more. Factory stuff will need to be redone properly, with performance in mind, and cost some. I guess I'm not sure why an $820 quote would get you to spend upwards of $2K to get a set on your car running. But that's up to you. Any head will do just fine.
 
I agree with these guys are saying. But I'm different as I'm always looking to go faster and heads like the Edelbrocks have more potential. Before I spent $800 on a set of 40 year old heads I'd seriously look at other (new) options.
 
With the stock bottom end pistons, the CR is going to be loooow, so I would certainly be looking at closed chamber heads. You can get the HP with the low CR, but it is all going to be at middle and higher RPM's. If this is a driver/cruiser and not a dedicated drag machine, a better CR will make a nice difference in torque, response, and general street driveability.

That points to the EQ irons or some aluminum ones like the Edelbrocks. If you want to save $$ on the Edelbrocks, then Autozone runs online specials every few weeks you can 15-50% cash discounts, or up to 35% gift card like is on sale right now through today. IMO, this should not be the decider by itself, but is a good way to get USA aluminum heads at a better price, if that is what you want.

I am not as familiar with the EQ's but if you look at the head flows of the standard Edelbrock 60779, you are right there at 400 HP. You can look at the Hughes website for their head flow data taken on various heads and mods, and use the Edelbrock flows published there (or on the Edelbrock site) as a benchmark for comparison for the 400 HP range.
 
With that cam, a minor head milling is all that is needed. It should be a part of truing the head up anyway, just a bit more for an extra bit of squeeze is an easy to do for the machinist and the cost should be a joke to pay. a 1/2 to 1 point raise is enough.
 
EQ OOTB, springs will work with that cam and they flow better than ported open chamber ones. $949 shipped with all new valves, springs and seals. Get the LA intake pattern and use your old intake. PM me for info.
 
This is what my guy quoted me for the $820:
bigger valves 2.02/1.60
Valve job
Decked
Bowls blended to the bigger valves
8 new valve guides
This guy owns a racing shop and builds engines for a living. he races a couple of dragsters. I have known him for years and he knows what he is doing. I was going to leave the smaller valves in as someone told me awhile back. they said it would be better for street use. But my shop guy told me the bigger valves would be better. I do not need to go aluminum. I am just looking to get more horses out of Tylers car. poor guy had a rice rocket blow his doors off on the interstate the other day and he is pissed. I think this stock 360 is only putting out like 150 HP. only 10 more than the slant 6 is in the 69 Valiant. So, with that said he just wants to get the biggest bang for his bucks. I don't know whats out there yet as I just started research this morning. My guy told me that if he does these heads for me, I should be putting out 400-420 HP on this engine. So, would doing these heads be just as good as going aluminum for the cost difference. It will be strickly street and I am not into worrying about 10-20 more HP if I spend $2000. I would be just as happy with 340 X heads. I know what they did on my 69 Swinger years ago. opinions here guys. Oh and I bought the cam kit that has the springs to go with this cam and the lifters also. Thanks, Bill
 
"it has a completely stock factory 360"
..what is it? .....2 bbl, 4 bbl, truck engine, motor home motor????
 
it is a 1979 engine. don't know what it came out of. It has a 600 CFM Edelbrock 4 bbl. on it right now.
 
all 360 heads are 1.88" intake and 1.60" exhaust. U want 16 new guides. the 1968-9 X heads are no big deal over any tuned up 360 heads with 2.02" valves. look into the enginquest heads.
 
that 360 in good mechanical shape with j heads, 4bbl, XE268,3.23 or better and a
sharp tune should run fine in an A body... and with a good converter surprisingly strong!
 
trudysduster said:
This is what my guy quoted me for the $820:
bigger valves 2.02/1.60
Valve job
Decked
Bowls blended to the bigger valves
8 new valve guides
This guy owns a racing shop and builds engines for a living. he races a couple of dragsters. I have known him for years and he knows what he is doing. I was going to leave the smaller valves in as someone told me awhile back. they said it would be better for street use. But my shop guy told me the bigger valves would be better. I do not need to go aluminum. I am just looking to get more horses out of Tylers car. poor guy had a rice rocket blow his doors off on the interstate the other day and he is pissed. I think this stock 360 is only putting out like 150 HP. only 10 more than the slant 6 is in the 69 Valiant. So, with that said he just wants to get the biggest bang for his bucks. I don't know whats out there yet as I just started research this morning. My guy told me that if he does these heads for me, I should be putting out 400-420 HP on this engine. So, would doing these heads be just as good as going aluminum for the cost difference. It will be strickly street and I am not into worrying about 10-20 more HP if I spend $2000. I would be just as happy with 340 X heads. I know what they did on my 69 Swinger years ago. opinions here guys. Oh and I bought the cam kit that has the springs to go with this cam and the lifters also. Thanks, Bill
Click to expand...

He's going to be pissed again after spending $12-1500 and the same rice rocket blows his **** away again.
 
First off, it is GREAT to see you back and active on the forum. I am really glad everything went well for you.


That said, IMO you are leaving a LOT on the table if "all you run" is the 268 with some heads like the Eddys. There is SO much more potential there. .....and I know you are not building a race car, but still........If "I" was going to drop that coin, I would want more than what that 268 is capable of. I would at least want a camshaft that those heads even knew was "there".
 
magnummopar said:
EQ OOTB, springs will work with that cam and they flow better than ported open chamber ones. $949 shipped with all new valves, springs and seals. Get the LA intake pattern and use your old intake. PM me for info.
Click to expand...

^spend your money on these^, as opposed to trying to get to your goal with reworked factory heads. These have better flowing ports and smaller combustion chambers. I'm not as optimistic about you reaching 1.11 horsepower per CID with a factory piston that far down in the hole, but should still be a good running motor with either the EQ heads or Edelbrocks. If you do reuse your factory heads, you'd be better doing/buying some minor port work done vs. 2.02 valves. The 2.02 valves will be wasted money without a port cleanup.
 
magnummopar said:
EQ OOTB, springs will work with that cam and they flow better than ported open chamber ones. $949 shipped with all new valves, springs and seals. Get the LA intake pattern and use your old intake. PM me for info.
Click to expand...

This x 1000

Best bang for your buck-just pick up some rocker assemblies at the junkyard and the correct pushrods and oil through lifters. Easy 400HP. J.Rob
 
RAMM, will the rockers work from the factory J heads. I was told they would. I already gotten new pushrods and oil through lifters that came with the kit. I am leaning towards the EQ heads. also have springs for the cam.
 
Rusty, elaborate on the camshaft you mentioned in post # 17. I posted a thread awhile back about what cam to run in this engine and the consensus was to go with the XE268 cam. Most said that it would be the best bet.
 
The EQ heads have better flow and more compression.Win-win.You may find something larger than that eddy 600 is in order to reach the engine's potential hp.
 
trudysduster said:
Rusty, elaborate on the camshaft you mentioned in post # 17. I posted a thread awhile back about what cam to run in this engine and the consensus was to go with the XE268 cam. Most said that it would be the best bet.
Click to expand...

I remember that thread, at the time I don't recall you changing heads. That's probably why the 268 was mentioned.
 
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