air cleaner and acclerator

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rdb

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So here's pix of this big 273 V8 air cleaner housing on this 225. Hoses going everywhere, etc. Early emissions, I guess. Or one guy here said California cars had to have this set up.
Can all this just come off for the normal air cleaner?

Also someone put in a wacko acclerator... whether by choice or the linkage or something broke on the old one. Gotta get this fixed also.
 

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Well gotta get that junque off of there. Parts will be up for grabs when this happens
 
Sedanman said:
That air cleaner is 73 and up so isn't original
Click to expand...

maybe it was a whoe replaced engine? It does have the electronic ignition system, added recently. Slants were out by 195/76? Any to tell if it is later engine dropped in?
 
If you're keeping the 2bbl, you'll have no choice but to keep that gas pedal set-up. The original one from your car is a mechanical linkage that attaches to the carb directly...the carb open east to west.
The 2bbl carb open north to south, and the only way to accomplish that is with a cable.
You could just move the bracket down a couple of inches, remove the plastic pedal from it, and use your original one to push against it.
 
Sedanman said:
That air cleaner is 73 and up so isn't original
Click to expand...

Judging by the shape at the end of the snorkel, it probably came off a a late 70s/early 80s Super Six where they had ductwork via a large hose touted from the air cleaner to a plate with a similar size hole on the inner fender.
 
That is not a 273 air cleaner. At least up here in Canada no 273 ever had the NOX valve or the heat stove. From the various accessories I see in the pics I could easily imagine that whole intake/exhaust set-up as coming from a mid 70s slant. And the suspended pedal is the far superior set-up. It appears to have been installed too far up under the dash though. I would rip out that old floor pedal, then attempt to reposition the suspended one lower, to where its comfortable for you. Probably a custom offset bracket might do it. If thats not possible I suppose you could lengthen the pedal down-rod,but that might negatively affect driveability with the 2 bbl. I think thats a last-resort idea.
-As to ripping out stuff:your state might have something to say about that. If you get the all clear, be advised that none of those systems, when correctly working were ever "bad". However its not likely that the supporting/related parts are currently on your car. Things like the charcoal canister,fueltank vent system,EGR thermo valves, noX timer, etc.You will need to decide if you want to keep the fresh air system(recommended).If you are planning to drive it in the winter you may want to keep the heated air system(also recommended).Both these systems may require your attention.The EGR system is a can of worms.I believe in EGR, but not for the oem reasons. I would try to feed the engine as much as it will accept from as early as possible. But since the support-works are likely gone, just make sure the valve is fully closed, or purchase/fabricate a blanking plate. After you remove the visible underhood parts, you will need to re-engineer a few things. The first will be the timing systems.Next will be the carb;mostly the low speed system, but depending on your exhaust system, possibly the mainjet, too. It sounds like a lot of work, and it is. But in the end,it will be worth it.
 
I don't think CA cars had EGR until the 70's. None of my 3 CA cars do (64 & 65). The heated intake looks like ~74+. What carburetor do you have? If a 2 bbl, with the desired Super Six upgrade, you probably want to keep that. If so, look for photos and posts about the Super Six. That linkage is special and desired.
 
I just want to put it back to stock--whatver it had when new. Not concerned w/ performance aspects. I do want the small air cleaner w/ the Charger 225 decal for sure. Antique cars here in MD don't have emissions inspection. Weren't early emissions setups known for affecting performance?
 
A lot of the performance loss on early,pollution controlled vehicles,was not directly due to the devices and/or systems.Some of those systems were actually advantageous. A great part of the performance loss was due to other factors. First was the low compression. Then was the retarded and lazy timing. And finally,the heated air,lean burn carburetion. Oh and not to be forgotten,the highway gears and their overweight chassies.With the advent of modern computer controls, we have seen the return to optimum compression,optimum timing, and precision control of fueling. And EGR is still with us,helping little tiny,normally-aspirated,engines,satisfactorily power 3000 to 3600 pound cars.
-The idea of returning your engine bay to stock,is admirable.I wish you much success.
 
To be totally stock, you will need to lose the EGR intake manifold. If a 2 bbl intake, you can sell it and the linkage here for $100 easy, perhaps more if aluminum. I think the exhaust manifold is the same, but lose the heat shield. You can check the block casting# against a chart here. If 3 staggered "freeze plugs", it is surely an early block. Either a Holley 1920 or Carter BBS carburetor. I think BBS was more common in early years. The best part to go non-standard is the brake master cylinder. A 2 chamber (F & R) one is safer.
 
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