Have it powder coated silver or what ever color you want. Clear will turn yellow real fast. I cleared mine the new engine will get aluminum ceramic paint or powder coat. No more clear for me.
I've looked into vapor blasting a little from a cleaning aspect. Does it seal the surface during the process so that it doesn't stain as easily?but it wont stain easily after vapor blasting .
YesI've looked into vapor blasting a little from a cleaning aspect. Does it seal the surface during the process so that it doesn't stain as easily?
For durability, clear powder coat. Next would be a clear Ceramacoat. Keep the as cast look as much as possible.Had the Edelbrock "endura shine" coating removed as previous owner ruined it. It's bare now and seems like it would suck up any oil like a sponge without a coating of some sort. What say ye.. paint it aluminum color, clear satin or run it as-is?
Aluminium gets a thin oxidation layer on it almost immediately that prevents further deterioration. This also prevents glue products adhereing well. There is a surface treatment for glueing from I think West Systems. Paul Lamar of rotaryeng.net recommended it. He is gone now and I am not sure what his son is doing with that site.Whatever you decide @CudaChick1968 can give you ideas as to what makes aluminum resist the elements (as in longevity) from a professional standpoint.
Yep, I'm aware of the oxidation on aluminum. I've owned Harleys before they chromed everything from the factory. What a royal p.i.a.Aluminium gets a thin oxidation layer on it almost immediately that prevents further deterioration. This also prevents glue products adhereing well. There is a surface treatment for glueing from I think West Systems. Paul Lamar of rotaryeng.net recommended it. He is gone now and I am not sure what his son is doing with that site.
I don't have the guts to use the oven to cure paint, but I do use the gas grill. I will use the oven on low to cook the oil out of my bowling ball when she isn't around.I paint all my motors including cast iron intakes together. Final cleaning before painting is done with acetone and I had never had a peal. I also use acetone for gasket installs. Do not remember which heat paint(clear) I used for my one aluminum intake, but I recall you had to bake it in an oven of some sort (My wife was pissed at me for some time). LOL.... It looked good for many years, but now showing its age (34 years) as the rest of the motor. Also no pealing.
On a bike, down here anyhow, once you Start polishing aluminum, you Don't Stop polishing AluminumYep, I'm aware of the oxidation on aluminum. I've owned Harleys before they chromed everything from the factory. What a royal p.i.a.
Yep, for certainOn a bike, down here anyhow, once you Start polishing aluminum, you Don't Stop polishing Aluminum
Mag wheels were the same. That is why they make a special cleaner, so not to remove the coating that protects the finish. I no longer use those cleaners, because I clean them with just dish soap and water every 2 to 4 weeks. The trick is, not to let them, including intakes, become saturated in filth. Clean often!!!!Yep, for certain
I'm not sure what would happen if you could keep the paint warm enough to flow, before the brush marks lay down, or use thinner. That's how we brushed metal trim , back in the day... I'd just Send it, to CudaChick1968!I painted my slant six with POR15 Chrysler blue and manifold high heat paint. Brushed both on and they look great.
Didn't brush on the valve cover though. Even though the brush marks mostly disappear, I didn't think they would disappear enough on a smooth surface that is front and center.
After owning a vintage 26’ polished Airstream for 16 years, you are correct!On a bike, down here anyhow, once you Start polishing aluminum, you Don't Stop polishing Aluminum
Wow! My Grandparents had a 74 New Yorker w a 440, pulled me to Canada ( and an Airstream, to meet my Great Uncle Joe) twice!After owning a vintage 26’ polished Airstream for 16 years, you are correct!