AJ's Opinion; my super-fun, 360/A-833/3.55 street-combo

-
AJ/FormS

AJ/FormS

68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
24,913
Reaction score
12,264
Location
South-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
In this thread; I will not get into specific parts (much).
All math will be based on 4.04x3.58= 752cc swept volume,=367 cubes, cuz that is what I have. When I talk about head-gaskets these are the numbers I will use, which are calculated off a 4.18 bore; .028=6.3cc/ .039=8.8cc/ .052=11.7cc and rounded to the nearest 1/10cc.. I will be using the Wallace calculator and a calculations will be for 930ft elevation, which is where I am at..
For those that might not know, the car is a 68 Barracuda with a 367/Commando 4-speed/ and 3.55s.
This 367 engine has had 3 cams in it since 1999. The slowest it has gone was 106 in the Quarter @3650 pounds; and the fastest was 93 in the Eighth @3457pounds. Both with 3.55s. Just so you know that she really is a streeter; with 27s, 65=2870rpm; altho I now have a GVod that drops this to 2240.
Ok here we go;
Firstly; please know that the 367, with KB107s, the pistons will fall together at about .012 below deck, with no deck-machining, and this is about 2.5cc. The pistons come with eyebrows advertised at 5cc/pair. My heads are OOTB Aluminum Edelbrocks at 63cc. So then, before gasket selection, the total chamber volume is; 2.5cc plus 5cc, plus 63cc in the chambers for a total of 70.5 cc (plus gasket). By adding the gaskets listed above, the Static Compression Ratio can be varied between 10.1/10.5/10.8 with no additional machining.This will become important later.
Secondly; in my mind, choosing a cam by it's advertised numbers, for a newbe, is kindof a sad situation. This does not tell you much about how it will run in your engine. You need to interpret the numbers every time.
A better way, in my opinion, is to use the numbers of compression degrees plus power extraction. Say your cam numbers generate an Ica of 64*. That means your compression degrees will be 180 less 64=116*.. Say this same cam generates a power extraction number of 108* .. Together that totals 224*. Now, no matter how you install this cam, you will always get 224* of compression plus extraction. Lets call this number C/E (or CE if I forget the slash), so I don't have to type it out all the time.
Now then, Say you wanted this cam to make great fuel mileage; you would bias the install towards a high extraction number cuz the longer the expanding gasses are pushing on the piston top, the better (within reason).
For comparison, the stock 318 cam has 120* of extraction. And we all know the potential of the 318 to make fuel-economy. And the 340 had 104* (in at 110) of extraction and it was a gashog for sure. By my own experience, once the extraction drops to under 104* forget fuel economy. And so, I find 110/108* is about as low as I wanna dip.
Going back to the example of 224C/E then, this leaves just 224 less 110=114 degrees for compression. With these two numbers, you can now build a cam.
But first, lets look at that 114* of compression. This means your Ica is 66*, and at 8/1 Scr, your cylinder pressure would be a dismal 116.6psi and your VP is predicted to be 98 nintyeffing-eight, about what a 273 made. So then, you could stick this cam into a monster-engine, but below about 3200rpm, it's still gonna perform like a 273. Let that sink in. Do not do this with a clutch-car, you will be miserable.
Ok but
By 9.0/1; the pressure is up to 135 and VP is 114; so now she is behaving like a 318...
By 10.0/1; 156psi/131VP are on the plate
By 10.5/1; 166psi/140VP, now we're starting to have fun
by 11.0/1; 176psi/148VP, and now you spin any sized tires that you care to
By 11.3/1; 182psi/154VP; overkill
 
Last edited:
page 2
>>Now a word about pressure;
With iron heads;
91pump-gas will only support up to about 170psi and only if you know what yur doing. For each lesser grade you will have to lose 5psi, and if your quench is not tight enough, another 5 or more psi. So if you want to run 87gas with open-chamber iron, you might have to be satisfied with 155psi; FORGET about Scr; the engine does not even know what Scr is. You have to build to a pressure.
But with alloy heads,
we have a different situation. Right here on FABO we have guys running 200psi still on pumpgas. So to run 87 full time with a tight Q, this seems to indicate that 190psi is possible, and that is what I was aiming for. In one of my combos, it ran a tic over 190psi ,still on 87E10. So I'm willing to go there. You may not be. But 185/180 is easily doable.
Now a word about VP;
read about V/P here; V/P Index Calculation
If yur running an automatic, you can run a higher-stall TC and never know that your bottom-end is weak. But this thread is for manual-trans street cars, that start off in the soft zone every single time, and with 3.55s, stay in the soft zone or, double-back into it after a shift, back and forth all day long; so we don't want that! Nor do I, in particular, enjoy revving my engine to 3000, like a an old Mustang,every time I take off.
So as a streeter with 3.55s, I adopted the high VP strategy.
Well that didn't work out for me with my first cam, more on that later.
Ok so now, lets talk about C/E some more.
My three combos have been 212 then 227, and finally 219.
I can tell you that 227 was a fantastic number.
I can tell you that 212 was a lousy number. and
I can tell you that 219 is a reasonable compromise. And that is why it has stayed in my engine since 2004.
But the 219C/E was NOT happy with the regular 2.66 low A833, and 3.55s. I found that it really liked 4.30s better having a dump-it-and-go street-friendly attitude. So then,
4.30 x 2.66=11.44.. Next I got me a 3.09 low Commando A833 and re-installed the 3.55s, for a new starter gear of 3.09 x3.55=10.97 which was close enough. But that was only the first compromise.
The next compromise was the fact that the 219 C/E could not muster very much power-extraction no matter where I installed it at. The 219C/E could make only 105* of extraction at 108 installed centerline. I moved that cam a lil, , but no matter, it is what it is...... compared to the 227C/E cam.
So the take away for me was that 110* of extraction was about as low as I wanted to go. But with the 219C/E cam this left only 109*for compression, with an Ica then of 71*! Which would drop my VP to 126 which is 5.2M territory, and even with my new starter gear I knew I wouldn't like that at all. So there was no sense in re-timing the cam again. So I left the split at 114* compression/ 105* extraction.
 
Last edited:
page 3
>>Now, some History!
In the beginning, 1997, I didn't know any of this. There were no V/P calculators nor even Dcr calculators. I had seen guys throw big cams into low-compression engines for years with always the same sluggish bottom-end results. I had even done it myself. This time it would be different.
So I started pouring over magazine articles looking for hi-torque combos and trying to figure out how they did it, and still run pumpgas.. Finally it dawned on me that the engine doesn't make compression from Scr. It cannot start to build compression until the valves are closed; DUH. So then I unchained myself from Scr. I was a pretty good math student and I still remembered a few trigonometry formulas, so I attacked the magazine articles in a new way. And that pointed to a new way of figuring out compression ratios that I would later, after the world got the internet, find out was called Dcr or Dynamic Cylinder Compression. Boy I'll tell you, I wore out about a half a dozen slide-rules before I figured out that the 292/292/108 cam I wanted to run, would need more than 11.3Scr to just not be a total slug off the line. Of course no speed shop agreed with that, and even the machine shop I was working at said; no way, 9.5Scr was the limit. And, worse yet, I had no way to know what 11.3 would do at WOT after 3600rpm. So I took a chance thinking I might need to add a water-injection kit to it at some time in the future.
So I said to my boss; ok, here's my block; this is what I want, and I'll put her together myself so your shop will not have it's name dragged thru the mud when it fails, as you say it will.
Of course the Dcr on that 11.3 combo was still only 8.4, so maybe I couldda run iron heads! But I was planning ahead. I knew the 292 would probably be too big, (and it was.... for me), But I had set it up to run the .028 gasket so I had plenty of room to move around in,(and I did).
So now, after driving it for several months, I knew where the upper limit was, as to what was too big; so I yanked it out. This 292/292/108 cam had a C/E of 212, and this number was just too small for me.
But where was the lower limit?
I didn't know, but I now knew that 170psi was easily doable on 87E10. So I knew I could pump it up by jumping down 2 sizes at least, and after talking to some bigshot at Hughes, lol, and not getting anywhere with him, I ordered a cam THREE sizes smaller with a C/E of 227; oh Lordy I was gonna either have bottom-end torque up the ying-yang, or it was gonna blow up!.
So I slid that 270/276/110 into that 11.3Scr engine at 106 installed centerline........ and you guessed it she was a torque monster. In at 106 the extraction came to 108 and that made really good fuel mileage. I was a happy guy. The pressure came to over 190psi with a VP of 169. ridiculous tire-frying was the norm.
At the end of the season in year 2000, at it's first scheduled freshening, I discovered the .028 gasket was migrating into the valley. So after a little research the .039 FelPros were ordered up. But I really liked the high pressure so I had the block decked to zero. The new Q dropped from .040 to .039, lol no big deal. Since this 227 C/E cam was making ridiculous amounts of tire melting torque, I decided to try and get some top-end back that I had had with the 292/ 212C/E cam. So I installed it straight up at 110*.
So now the new numbers were 10.8Scr/174psi and a VP of 148, a much more sane number. This changed the extraction to 112* and I was soon chasing mpgs into the 30s. Think about that. To be fair, I was now running an A833od and a GVod behind that, so with 27s that was 65=1600/ 85=2100.. She topped out at 32MpgUS.
And with the cam installed at 110, I picked up some power over the nose and extended the powerband a few hundred rpm; altogether a triple win for me. If I was happy last summer, I was ecstatic this summer. I left it that way until the cam, in 2004, started dropping lobes right after an oil change. You guessed it, a victim of the zinc claw-back. Boy I'm still miffed.
The take away here was that a C/E of 227 makes a daymn fine cam.
Ok so back to building a streeter.
Ok but wait!, lol. When that cam fell into the pan I got to thinking..... if a CE of 212 was terrible, and a CE of 227 has fantastic bottom-end ; then how about something up the middle? And so I called up Hughes and ordered a cam with a CE of 219, I mean that's how the off-the-shelfer came. And I mean, 219 is exactly up the middle between 227 and 212.
BAAAAAD mistake. I lost bottom end big time. And the top did not seem any better than the previous cam. So you guessed it, to find out what was doing it I took the engine down and decked it some more to get the Dcr back up. By this time I was real comfortable with the pressure.
The new Q is .032, and Scr is back up to 10.95 with a Dcr of 8.6, pressure of 175, and a VP of 148. So that should do it right? Well yeah the beast is now back in action but in at 108, the extraction is down to 105 and gone forever is the 32mpgs. So I got rid of that A833od, cuz 65=1600 was not gonna work for this combo anyway, and which I never liked, and I kept blowing them up all the time.
The take away for me was that the change from 227C/E to 219C/E was just too big for me.
Ima thinking that next time, I will try ~224. Hyup I think I can work with that.
Ok so now you know all about my escapades with C/E and why I think this is so important. So
 
Last edited:
page 4
>>back to the build. I have decided that YOUR street build for a clutched car should have a C/E of exactly 224* lol. . In at the right spot, you can have very good extraction at 108 allowing a compression of 116*. So then just pump up the pressure short of detonation and yur done.
Now I'll go out on a limb and say that you might find twenty cams to fill this bill, at a C/E of 224*; IDK maybe a hundred. So we need to narrow it down some.
First on the hit list is Powerband. If you run 3.55s like me, you have a two-gear streeter. That is to say that you can hit 60mph at the top of Second gear. So you have just one shift to deal with, and the tires will be spinning all the way thru First, so really, you have no powerband to be concerned with, so you can run any LSA you want to. If you want the big power number, get you some overlap, and run 106 or less LSA. If you want the top of the rpm band to stretch out so you can rev it to the moon try a 115LSA.
Lets see what this looks like.
Because my car spins 325/50-15s to way past 65 mph, I don't care about any dyno power number; she already has way more power than the chassis can handle. So I like to rev it!
Lets start with about 50* of o'lap, and I get 268/278/111.5 in at 110 .
Lets pump it up to 60* of overlap, and I get 272/284/109.. in at 108.
Lets try 70* of overlap and I get ............. 278/288/106.5 in at 105.
All of these theoretical cams have the same 224* C/E. All of them are going to have the very same CCP(Cranking Cylinder Pressure) and all of them will have the same extraction of 108*..
The 278 cam will make the most power, well I should say has the potential to make the highest number on a dyno. Not just because it has the most intake degrees, but partly also because of the large 70* of overlap.
The 268 cam is the smallest and has very little useful overlap so it will make the smallest number...... but it will hang on to it's power longer after the powerpeak...... because the LSA is so much wider.
Which one would I run? Well I have already run 53/61 and 76 degrees of overlap, so Ima liking the big numbers and I don't care if it only carries the power to just 300 after the peak, so Ima thinking 80* of overlap!! That would take a 282/294/104 cam. However, the exhaust duration is starting to wander way off into left field so Ima thinking to abandon the idea of adding any more overlap to the 224CE
So Lets go back and look at the 272/284/109. The exhaust was already wandering back here, lets see if we can clean it up. Lets reduce the exhaust to 4* split and increase extraction from 108 to 110 for a new C/E of 226 a very nice number. And the cam becomes 272/276/110 in at 108, and the Compression remains at 116. Overlap drops to 54*
This would make a GREAT street cam, with just enough of each event to make it work, with the exception of overlap that is just 54* .. But hang on, with 3.55s and 27s, 60mph is just 5100 in 1.92 Second gear so um........ do we need more overlap? Answer; no we don't, lol.
So then think about this; If you limit your combo to 3.55s and run a Mopar A833, that sets your rpm to 60=5100 in Second gear; why do you want to build a 430hp monster, that will never get to it's powerpeak, and more than likely will have a softer bottom end... hmmmmmmmm
IDK but automatic-guys do it all the time.
By my trapspeed of 93 in the Eighth at 3457 pounds, the Wallace Calculator says that takes 430 hp. ...... so apparently so did I (build a monster). But not on purpose, I can assure you. All I ever wanted was to not have a wussy bottom end, and make decent mpgs so I could make her my DD.
Ok so where are we on the build?
Well first off, I only cut my decks to get away from the .028 gaskets, which couldn't, I thought, take the 190psi. It turns out that lots of guys here on FABO are running, or have successfully run, those .028s with a proper deck prep. So My failure was not the norm. But I didn't know that.
So then, slam your fresh-bored and honed 360 together with the KB 107s at whatever, down-in-the-hole, and use the .028s ; just remember to rough up both the decks and the heads to give them something to hang on to.
I run the alloy heads so I can pump up the pressure, and forget about the actual numbers, so long as it is over 170psi. I took my engine apart every winter 6 in a row, looking for evidence of detonation on 87E10 and never found any, even at 190psi. So I mean how could I lose? She runs cheap gas all the time, runs massive pressure, gets great fuel economy and went 106 in the Qtr at 3650 pounds with the smallest cam. 106 could be a mid twelves car, so that was fast enough for me.
It turns out that the Eddies with my small cams have no problem running to 7000 rpm or more, mine have been there hundreds and hundreds of times. Did I build it for that? No! They just happen to hang on really well.
After that, just bolt on whatever. I started with the factory iron intake and a TQ. then an Excellerator and several other carbs all VS or AVS or TQs. After a while I figured out my combo was lousy with an un-controlled by my foot, secondary, So when the AirGap came out, I got me one right away and bolted a 750DP on top. As a streeter it ran great with every one of those...... but I think the AG is part of why the small cams I run, keep on pulling long after peak.
As for cams I liked the 270/276/110 the best. The 227* C/E is just right. In at split overlap it gets great fuel-economy even down to say 1800 rpm.
But the truth is; If there is a next cam, it will be Solid-Lifter cam with a similar .050 to what my Hughes HE3037AL cam has, but with less advertised. It will have a tighter LSA than 110, less stagger than 276/286, and more overlap than 61*, lol. I really want my fuel mileage back without a loss of midrange and without a higher rear gear. It turns out that 2240rpm@65mph is a fabulous cruiser gear, and living in the country, I do a lot of cruising..

So that's my story
 
Last edited:
page 5
>>BTW my experience; I had my decks cut twice each time by a different machine shop. They both said they were well able to do it right.
The first shop could not do it right. After careful measuring I found the one deck going uphill to the back and the other downhill. And for good measure they were not at 90* to eachother. Bolting down a cast-iron intake was not going to seal.
The second machine shop said the could fix that and they did. But they told me my one year old bores were all screwed up. Since those were sublet by the first machine shop, I didn't doubt it. But they added that they couldn't fix it unless they also line-honed it.
So, ok I said, do what you gotta do.
Well they "fixed" the holes ok and it only cost a thou to a thou and a half so ok File-fits it was. What I didn't know was that the "line-hone" had relocated the back of my crank up higher in the block, and now the factory seal barely touched the crank. I found this out a couple of months later when it started to leak. Not thinking much about it I just replaced it. But it happened again, of course, and this time I had a better look and sure enough the one half seal was worn out and the other was barely touched. And that matched the first pair. Being a fair guy, I brought the evidence back to the machine shop where I got the usual song and dance. But he was a fair guy too! He said I should bring him another 360 block, and he would fix it for nothing. Great I said, but who pays for the second block, and what about the boring and decking? Well no, he wasn't that fair....
So then, thanks but no thanks was my response. Well, actually, I think I said something like, so you want me to trust you not to ef up another block, and I gotta do it on my dime? No thanks.
Yeah it went something like that.
Here's the thing; all three shops are highly recognized builders in the area, and all three said they could do it...... but all three were wrong. So here's my advice to anyone building a 360 engine; do as little machining as possible and trust no one. So just leave the pistons down in the holes. Forget about them, and use the darn .028 gaskets. Or, just order slightly longer rods to get you where you want to be.
Ok so time to wrap it up;
What did I miss?
Oh yeah I forgot to tell you a few other things;
1) I did the oiling mods, all but the crossover under the intake thing.
2) I run a Milodon 7qt roadrace pan with the sides bumped out. But most of the time I run less than 7 qts in it. I bought it just to get the oil away from the crank. And I run the matching Milodon oil pick-up, the tray, and a HV pump. The HV pump gives me freedom to fool around with other oiling mods. But with all this oil moving around, there still wasn't enough going to my aluminum rocker arms so I had to send more to the heads.
3) Well the Edelbrocks have poor drainage, so I had to dig some channels. That got me thinking about my camlobes so I drilled a series of holes between each pair of lifters. Yeah I know, that's no where close to the lobes ........ when the engine is on the stand. But whatabout when the engine is installed and reving 7000 rpm? You got any idea where that oil is going? Me either, but I don't see it in the pockets any more, lol.
4) Hyup, I got oil spraying on my timing chain too. and you remember those pizz-holes in the rods that spray oil on the cylinders? HYUP they're doing a fine job now.
And so on. Oh the things you can do with an HV pump.
5) Alloy heads can run at higher pressures because they pull heat out of the chambers. So it's more like you HAVE to run alloys at higher pressures and or temperatures, just to break even, and some tests on dynos seem to prove that. To try to combat that, I painted thechit out of my heads, and I run my cooling system at 207*F full time. It's hard to argue with 93 in the Eighth.
6) I moved my air intake to above the hood, just cuz. lol. I've never had trouble with hot fuel, but with running 87E10 I get the fuel-disappearing-act about once a week. But with the DP carb, the AirGap, and hi-volume pump, it still always starts.
7) ignition timing will be a thing. If you're used to iron heads, forget everything you ever knew about timing; it does not apply to a 180/190psi clutch street car.
8) speaking of clutches; I like my CenterForce diaphragm pressure plate. But not the CF-II disc; she's a kidney buster. I went back to a stock factory 340 double-organic disc. They don't last very long, between one and three summers, but it only takes a an hour or so to swap it out. Mine usually crack the hubs or throw springs, making them vibrate. But the 367 has torn a few frictions off as well. One day I was thinking about this and it came to me, since the CF has flyweights, and my tires just spin anyway, why do I need all this clampload? Well it didn't take me long to dial in some slip for low-rpm engagement. I just installed some spacers between the PP and the flywheel, until I liked it. So now she's a dump-it-and-go deal. I just give the flywheel a lil rpm and more or less dump the clutch, and away we go. If I'm in a hurry I just rev it up until the flyweights are out and pow! tirespin, lol. As a bonus, my factory 340 discs last a lot longer now.

Ok so if you have questions fire away.
 
Last edited:
AJ, When you are talking about psi, are you talking about cranking pressure as measured with a compression gauge?
 
upload_2021-11-28_20-40-40.png


This off the shelf cam?
I had the same build but with iron heads and gas.. was not really happy unless I was pumping that 106 through it
 
My combo is pretty sickly. I bought the car about 5 years ago. It had been restored about 10 years before that I think. It has a 1975 360 and a 727 automatic, 8 3/4 rear with 3.23 suregrip. It seems to have a stock converter, seems very low stall. I don’t know anything about the inside of the engine. Here is what I know about it:

Cranking compression about 120 psi
Seems like an aftermarket cam, idles kind of lumpy at about 13 inches of vacuum
LD340 intake, Holley 600 four barrel
1973 340 exhaust manifolds
Stock 340 dual exhaust with louder mufflers
Mopar electronic ignition
Ps, pb, a/c
Good oil pressure hot & cold

It doesn’t have much low end, will hardly spin the tires. I would like to make it a fun streeter, but don't really know what to do. It runs well, it is just very boring. I am not into racing, so I just want to make it fun to drive. If I tear into it, I want to get it right the first time.

It had a 2.76 open rear in it when I bought it & I went to the 3:23 & that helped some. I don’t want to go lower than that, as I hiway drive it.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Cranking compression about 120 psi
Click to expand...
This here is a big problem and this will also show up as in lack of stall.
What elevation are you at.
Mike69cuda said:
13 inches of vacuum
Click to expand...
This here may also point to a "bit of a cam" as they say.
All in all, disappointing results around town; am I right?

Working the Wallace Calculator in reverse, I get to 120 psi with a 340 cam in an 8/1 360 at about 1000 ft elevation. The VP looks like 100 so, as you say; "pretty sickly".
If that's right, then performance might begin at 3600 rpm, say about 32mph; does that sound about right?
I know exactly what to do about it but it won't be cheap. You gotta fix the low cylinder pressure. Fun starts at a VP of 130/135, doesn't get into full swing until VP of 140/145. And with iron open chamber heads you won't get much past that, on account of you'll be close to the detonation threshold with best pump gas.

In addition, you have the wrong cam for your gears and application.
After you get the pressure up, and the cam down, you will see the Convertor stall a lil higher; maybe enough to satisfy your need for tirespin.
if you want a fun car, you need to be able to use up all your power by the top of second gear. With 3.23s, and 26" tires, 60=4000 or so, so you don't need anything more than a factory 318 cam. In fact, I can guarantee you that putting a 318 cam into your 360 will increase the pressure and simultaneously bump the VP up to the very low end of the fun category, with no other changes. Sure it will run out of power early, but with 3.23s this will not happen until after 60 mph; so who cares! especially if the 318 cam busts the tires loose, and you can wind her up and maybe keep the tires spinning thru all or most of, first gear; that's the fun part right?
I already found this out in the 70s when I did almost exactly that. I installed a complete 318 topend, including heads, cam, and 2bbl, onto a hi-compression 340 short block, and found myself with a tire-fryer. Sure it ran out of steam early, but first gear was killer big fun, and second wasn't far behind. What more can a guy ask for; I mean the speed limit in town is about 35mph, sometimes 45. With 3.23s that's all first gear work!
Would I run the 318 cam today?
Well no; the 360 was born with an 8/1 Scr so a 318 cam is gonna be a bit mushy for me now; it ain't no hi-compression 340 short. I just guarantee you that installing a 318 cam into your 8/1 engine will be more fun than what YOU now have. And people give used ones away for free. So all it costs you to find out are some gaskets.
The Wallace predicts, with the 318 cam in an 8/1 360 at 800ft, the pressure should be up at 136psi and the VP to 128.. 128 compared to 100 is an increase of 28% performance below say 3300 in your combo. That would be 30 mph.
You can think of that 28% as similar to 28% more rear gear ratio so
1.28 x 3.23=4.13.... of course by 3300, it will be back to feeling like the 3.23s that she is. This is your bar-none cheapest fix. Even the stock 360 2bbl cam will pick up the pressure & V/P
but the best fix is to get the pressure up, and in your case probably to shelf that cam AND set the pressure up, together with your next cam. But only you can make the money-decision.
 
Last edited:
I am at 900 ft elevation. You are correct, it is pretty doggy around town, lacks any real low end snap that would make it fun to drive. Starts to get rolling at higher rpms, but I rarely wind it up there where the cam likely makes power.

If I can get away with just a cam change & see some low end improvement that would be great. An increase in idle vacuum would also likely help my power brakes.

The engine seems to be in reasonably good shape, but since it is a low compression motor, it seems like I am pretty limited in what I can do without really tearing into it. Would milling heads buy me much?
 
Nice write up AJ though if you wish to expand it some, I think it would help a bit.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Nice write up AJ though if you wish to expand it some, I think it would help a bit.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rumble; that means a lot to me that you occasionally agree with me. I know we don't always see eye to eye, but I admit that I have learned more than a little bit from you. I think sometimes, that some of us ( no one in particular) are like Roses in the hedge, all nice-like in the flower, smell so good and all, but a lil prickly in the stems lol, but all-in-all the hedge does look nice with all the other flowers in it..
 
Last edited:
AJ, Thanks for the write up, sometimes others give you a hard time with the length of your posts but I always want more.
 
moparlvr166 said:
AJ, Thanks for the write up, sometimes others give you a hard time with the length of your posts but I always want more.
Click to expand...
Thanks for saying so. There are only a handful of guys like you on here and it's always nice to hear or get PMs from you all. I know I might seem grumpy from time to time, but I'm working on that. Chit I'm 68 and been chewed up by a hostile world so sometimes I get a lil testy.
And what really pizzes me off is that, criminy!, I hate being wrong; and it can be so hard to eat crow. have a nice stinking day, lol.
Okwait; may the Captain of the Gate, bless you and keep you, and cause His face to shine upon you, and heal you from all your sicknesses, diseases, infirmities, and remove the burden of Family Curses; In the name of the Fisher-of-Men; Amen.. Install the correct names, then read it out loud !
 
moparlvr166 said:
AJ, Thanks for the write up, sometimes others give you a hard time with the length of your posts but I always want more.
Click to expand...
That’s because his reply is not in depth to the depth of your wanting. He leaves things out and semi thankfully so because his novel posts would certainly turn into a book, most literally!

To go into depth of what he is saying is DEEEEEEEP.

This is why it (used to be) said, get this book, get that book. It’s better than what would almost seem to be plagiarizing someone’s book and regurgitating it to you so you understand. I used to write big long paragraphs (Just like AJ believe it or not!) years back, but I got sick and tired of repeating myself typing the same old ****. Now I just write, get the damn book! If I even do that much.

You want to understand more of what AJ is saying….
Start with the “Engine math book.”
Then read everything you can on camshafts.
But don’t worry, you’ll still be behind the 8 ball when your done. But it’ll only be the 8 ball and not a freshly racked set waiting on the break.
 
Can anyone in 2 or 3 sentences give me the cliff notes of his post? That my increase my interest in reading it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top