Align hone

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Rodsaknockin

Rodsaknockin

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Would you guys get your block align honed if you go with studs on your main caps and would you resize rods going from stock rod bolts to arp hardware?
 
Yes and yes.

I never don't at least touch the main line regardless. And you never use new rod bolts without a resize unless they are caps crew style bolts.
 
yellow rose said:
Yes and yes.

I never don't at least touch the main line regardless. And you never use new rod bolts without a resize unless they are caps crew style bolts.
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Ok thanks I'm just debating going to a aftermarket rod it will be almost the same money as compared to resizing rods it is about 40 bucks for each rod and the arp bolts are 120.00 bucks
 
unless align honing is done by a really skilled and conscientous machinist with proper tooling, I think you can raise more problems than you're solving by the procedure, especially if it's just for using main studs.
That being said, I think resizing rods with a good rod honing machine is probably a good idea when going to new arp rod bolts. Again, they need to be honed by someone who knows what he's doing, because the rod is probably the most highly stressed engine component.
 
rustycowll69 said:
unless align honing is done by a really skilled and conscientous machinist with proper tooling, I think you can raise more problems than you're solving by the procedure, especially if it's just for using main studs.
That being said, I think resizing rods with a good rod honing machine is probably a good idea when going to new arp rod bolts. Again, they need to be honed by someone who knows what he's doing, because the rod is probably the most highly stressed engine component.
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I agree the block was ready to go plans changed a little and want to over build the bottom end a bit. I'm going to get the align hone done At a machine shop But with a new h beam Rod and arp hardware I should be safe on the rods
 
Rodsaknockin said:
I agree the block was ready to go plans changed a little and want to over build the bottom end a bit. I'm going to get the align hone done At a machine shop But with a new h beam Rod and arp hardware I should be safe on the rods
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It is good to keep in mind there is no way to align hone without introducing more slop into the timing chain.
 
cycle the tight on those new rods a few times (vice with some boards if you do not have a rod vice) with the recommended lube
then check for round
I've straightened out more than may share of quick and dirty bad line hone jobs takes a line bore
 
YR and Wyrm - right on the money. Disregarding any problems well documented by factory machining - any change in fastener should mandate align honing the block because it will change the load on the surrounding iron. And, aftermarket rods should be cycled with the correct lube for the fastener - not what the rod manufacturer recommends, then have them checked for roundness. I've had to fix about 50% of the rod sets I've used over the years.

Edit - I'll add that done properly it does not change the crank centerline in the block. I do it on all of my higher powered builds as part of the block blueprinting, and the equipment used also makes sure the centerline is properly oriented in the block in relation to the decks.
 
Where in Canada are they charging about 40 a rod? Wow! I realize the buck sucks, but that's bad.
 
Max1196 said:
Where in Canada are they charging about 40 a rod? Wow! I realize the buck sucks, but that's bad.
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They are charging that 30 mins east of Lethbridge. That's after years of sending work this machinists way.
 
Holy crap- I retired too soon
MOPER my experience on rods too- some brands are much better than others
a light touch with the align hone then inspect tells if any more is needed
I set up off the cam and main centerlines ignoring the decks for the most part
but sometimes the cam and mains are not congruent- every which way up down and sideways figure core shift first- tilt- reject
 
Rodsaknockin said:
They are charging that 30 mins east of Lethbridge. That's after years of sending work this machinists way.
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So, that would be in Taber?
I'm looking for a good machinist in my area. (I'm in Lethbridge)
I really don't have too much faith in the shops in town here anymore, and it seems like the good guys have retired, and the rest.........well, you know.
P.M. me if you would like or just respond here.
 
Dartnut said:
So, that would be in Taber?
I'm looking for a good machinist in my area. (I'm in Lethbridge)
I really don't have too much faith in the shops in town here anymore, and it seems like the good guys have retired, and the rest.........well, you know.
P.M. me if you would like or just respond here.
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Well I'm going to talk to joss technical in Lethbridge he seems like a honest sort and with my business stuff I use a guy in Calgary but he mostly does just pump stuff but I'm sure he will no someone good in the business
 
Rodsaknockin said:
Well I'm going to talk to joss technical in Lethbridge he seems like a honest sort and with my business stuff I use a guy in Calgary but he mostly does just pump stuff but I'm sure he will no someone good in the business
Click to expand...




Dartnut said:
So, that would be in Taber?
I'm looking for a good machinist in my area. (I'm in Lethbridge)
I really don't have too much faith in the shops in town here anymore, and it seems like the good guys have retired, and the rest.........well, you know.
P.M. me if you would like or just respond here.
Click to expand...


if you really want top quality machining get the best mopar guy in Canada . do what i do box it up and send it to J.Rob he goes by RAMM on this site .
Day and Ross provide cheap shipping . i sent him a complete small block once for $106.00 .
 
Can’t help you on the stock rods as I gave those up many years ago. The only engine I’ve ever had any line boring or honing done was a 440 block That I updated to Billet caps. Again I reference myself as a budget builder so when I switch over to main studs if it turns over nice a smooth when I assemble the bottom end she’s ready to go racing. My money feels better in MY pocket
 
Rodsaknockin said:
Ok thanks I'm just debating going to a aftermarket rod it will be almost the same money as compared to resizing rods it is about 40 bucks for each rod and the arp bolts are 120.00 bucks
Click to expand...
The pricing makes it pretty attractive/easy to change to non-stock rods for a lot of applications.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
if you really want top quality machining get the best mopar guy in Canada . do what i do box it up and send it to J.Rob he goes by RAMM on this site .
Day and Ross provide cheap shipping . i sent him a complete small block once for $106.00 .
Click to expand...
Thank you.
Yes, i've read a lot of his posts.
He's obviously very good at what he does, and the shipping you quoted is pretty cheap.
I'll check it out.
Tom.
 
Rodsaknockin said:
Well I'm going to talk to joss technical in Lethbridge he seems like a honest sort and with my business stuff I use a guy in Calgary but he mostly does just pump stuff but I'm sure he will no someone good in the business
Click to expand...
Joss does a lot of pump stuff too.
I'm sending you a p.m.............
 
Brad Anderson is just out of Calgary. He was the engine man for Les Davenport. U will be hard pressed to find anyone better out that way. Bruce at Abs in Regina Sask is 1 of the best. My buddy in Lloydminster uses Lou at AMS in Edmonton. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Brad Anderson is just out of Calgary. He was the engine man for Les Davenport. U will be hard pressed to find anyone better out that way. Bruce at Abs in Regina Sask is 1 of the best. My buddy in Lloydminster uses Lou at AMS in Edmonton. Kim
Click to expand...
I know Anderson is a common name, but I used to know a Brad Anderson, who was an automotive machinist in Seattle 30 or so years ago. Any relation?
 
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