aligned bored & timing chain lenght

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tooslow

tooslow

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I am pulling my PJ Gear Drive and going to a timing chain(I read an article the vibration wears out the front cam bearing) makes sense. Vibration is transferred to the engine
If my engine has been aligned bored how do I get a proper fit from a stock lenght double roller timing chain( needs adjustment correct)????
 
one line 'hone' isnt gonna create that much slack, unless they went crazy on it or the mains were way out.

they sell .010 shorter chains, call mancini racing.

otherwise....install the gears/chain and see how much slack there is...if it's very lil, just use the tensioner style cam plate.
 
tooslow said:
I am pulling my PJ Gear Drive and going to a timing chain(I read an article the vibration wears out the front cam bearing) makes sense. Vibration is transferred to the engine
If my engine has been aligned bored how do I get a proper fit from a stock lenght double roller timing chain( needs adjustment correct)????
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This may be a stupid statement so someone correct my thinking if I am wrong. If an engine is line bored correctly then the correct size bearing would be used and would still have everything centered back to the original location? I am thinking with logic and not hands on so clue me in.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
This may be a stupid statement so someone correct my thinking if I am wrong. If an engine is line bored correctly then the correct size bearing would be used and would still have everything centered back to the original location? I am thinking with logic and not hands on so clue me in.
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The crank centerline should not be changed more than .001/.0015" if at all if it was properly done. The more the shop has to remove the worse it will be. I have all my engines align honed and I've never had an issue with a timing chain being sloppy.
 
You get some damage like a spun main bearing and it can tear up the block pretty good

"Not that I've ever done that"
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
no, because the saddle is raised some.

it's .005 off the caps, then honing it back to size.
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Do they just line bore the caps? I thought the block and caps had to be installed together for the line bore and you would be removing the same amount of material from the block and the caps. I am no machinist so please explain where my thoughts are off. I do realize that the job is only as good as the person setting up the machinery even with the best equipment money can buy. The last one I had line bored was a 1927 Buick and it had babbit instead of bearing inserts.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Do they just line bore the caps? I thought the block and caps had to be installed together for the line bore and you would be removing the same amount of material from the block and the caps. I am no machinist so please explain where my thoughts are off. I do realize that the job is only as good as the person setting up the machinery even with the best equipment money can buy. The last one I had line bored was a 1927 Buick and it had babbit instead of bearing inserts.
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ha ha sorry, what I mean to say...is when you line hone a block, in the same way that you surface the caps on rods before you bolt them back together hone them to size, you remove around .005 from the cap which if split is .0025 cap & saddle. you dont cut the saddle matting face.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
ha ha sorry, what I mean to say...is when you line hone a block, in the same way that you surface the caps on rods before you bolt them back together hone them to size, you remove around .005 from the cap which if split is .0025 cap & saddle. you dont cut the saddle matting face.
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Thanks for helping me understand the process. I never had access to anyone that did that line of work. I just sent everything out and had the short block built and the heads reworked. I like OEM cars so I personally never modify from factory equipment unless a car was just too molested to go back OEM. When they were too molested I went to the impound sales and bought the cars that had been totaled to get a hopped up drive trains. Back in the day you could buy some nice equipped destroyed cars for really reasonable prices. Those days are gone now and desirable cars seldom hit the impound sales around here.
 
Put a double roller set on it and roll with it. Just had my 411" align honed and made no real difference.
 
Since this was put in the big block section, I thought that's what he was talkin about. I wasn't aware MP made the chain tensioner for the big block.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Since this was put in the big block section, I thought that's what he was talkin about. I wasn't aware MP made the chain tensioner for the big block.
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It is a BB. & I really spell like Shi#!!! ,(lenght) Hey- I didnt say Smell_
I should try spelly checker huh:newb:
 
No biggie. I thought I was fixin to learn about a new part. lol
 
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