AlterKation Install

-

roccodart440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
6,800
Reaction score
3,575
I bit the bullet and bought an AlterKation from RMS. I figured I'd document the install so I can get the help I may need and for others who end up going this route.

First off the quality of the parts are second to none in all ways.

================================

Day 1: I replaced my old and multi timed damaged and repaired oil pan. It was the rear sump style and hung very low.

The pan RMS recommends and the pan built to work with his system is the Milodon 315080 7 qt road race pan. This thing is a work of art. Fully baffled, hinged deceleration baffles. Fill port on the side.

I used the moroso rubber coated steel gaskets. They are the best 've seen but required me to go tot a 3/4" bolt. I used SS cap screws. You'll need these because you can't get a socket on the 3 pan bolts on each side. You can get an allen wrench in there easily.

I also installed the spool mounts. These are so much better in design than the biscuit mounts that require a limiter strap and shims to function right.

=====================================
 
Day 2:

Lower bumpstops have to be removed. I did this with a 5/8" drill bit. You can also use a 1/2" rotobroach or other brand spot weld cutter. Be prepared to be covered in metal chips.. This part wasn't fun. Having the engine crane in the way made things even more fun.

We bolted the new K-frame in. The bolts per the instructions can go in hard. True...

Next was the engine mounts. The AlterKtion uses spool mounts. These were easy to bolt in on the drivers side. The passenger side was a bear. Precise jacking and prying required. It was a 2 man job. I almost thought it wasnt' going to work.

YOu can tell by the before and after fitment of the TTI headers the placement of the engine is much better now.

==============================
 
Pics are coming soon.

Day 3: installed the a-arms and shocks as well as the rack. This was uneventful for the most part. The hardest part is getting the bottom bolts in. (lower CA bolts)
 
Day 4: Column out, now here lies a few quirks. You have to find a tiny pin to remove the factory collar from the shaft. There are no pictures or description of said pin. My advice to you is to grind the paint off. Look at the top sides and you should see a tiny ring, maybe 3/16 diameter. Use a pin driver to get it out. Finding it is the hardest part.

Once off there is a large pin you'll need to knock out and save. It comes out really hard. A press would be ideal but you can do it in a vice with a hammer and driver.

Column is back in. You will now need to attach the universals and the linkage between the 2. That link will have to be cut. I'd measure but mine came out to 5" and I used a portaband to cut it.

Tonight is brakes.
 
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbU5vFWVscM&list=PLrEUSEPyX4bRGMp9nPXTaTq-9SGlIGTq9"]Project Valiant: AlterKtion Suspension Installation - YouTube[/ame]
 
I didn't put those shock tower bolts in. It said they aren't required and the way it says to install them the engine has to be out of the car.
 
What did you guys use to plug the original upper shock mount holes?
 
What did you guys use to plug the original upper shock mount holes?

when i did mine (b-body) i bought an upper shock mount kit and installed it using a bolt from underneath . looked stock when done and i used the exposed "stud" for my plug wire brackets
 

Attachments

  • 68 5-11-11 028.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 261
It's a pretty straight forward easy install. I got the shock tower bolts it with no problem with the motor in place. I was running a small block though.

Be a lot more informative with pictures to go with the steps. As it is I may as well just scan the printed install directions and post them. Lol
 
-
Back
Top