Alternator wiring confusion. Why are you there wire?!

-

Manny Valencia

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
100
Reaction score
5
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Hello all

According to this schematic
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG

I should only have a blue, green, and black wire on my alternator. Anyone know why there is a brown one ran along side them too?

Also can you share pics of your alternator set up?

Thank you!

20170121_191942.jpg


20170205_184639.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sometimes they run the horn wires up with the alternator wires... The extra wire could be for the horns...
 
Looks like the OEM terminal on that brown wire which wouldn't be the terminal they used at a horn.
I know at some year model they stopped their practice of relying on the typical hardware daisy chain to provide chassis ground the alternator. They put a actual ground wire on the alternator. I can't confirm this is a ground wire though. If the factory wiring diagrams didn't show it I would just follow it back to its origin.
 
Did a continuity test for the brown wire on the alternator. It has a strong continuity to a connector to the resistor

IMG_20170205_203249_613.jpg
 
Last edited:
Brown IIRC is part of the start circuit. Go look on the starter relay. There should be a brown and a yellow. Brown there EDIT, goes to the starter, and yellow goes to the neutral start sw.
In the early years, like yours, Chrysler rarely changed wire colors in one circuit and rarely used the same color and gauge somewhere else. You have there, what appears to be the same color and gauge as you will find at the start relay.
I would therefore jump to the conclusion that they are part of the same circuit, and would next attempt to prove it.

The horn-wire feed would be Violet
The brushes should be green and blue, the big fat out put should be black.
The 12 ga.brown at the starter relay is supposed to go to the starter and nowhere else.
It seems to me I once changed out a very big alternator in a non-A-body, and it had an extra wire.Yeah, but it was 6 ga black and went straight to ground, and was bolted onto the case on a stud. That was a 100Amp job.

I would also check at the battery for a big brown wire like that; somebody might have run an Ammeter bypass directly from the alternator output stud, to the battery, in an attempt to solve another problem. He might have pirated the brown start circuit wire from another harness.If he did, the other end might still have it's original horseshoe connector, stuffed into the positive battery clamp.

BTW, how well do your pulleys line up; something looks fishy about all those washers stacked up on the mount?
And what exactly are we working on?

Until you figure it out, disconnect it, insulate it, and zip-tie it to something it cannot short to. Maybe something won't be working anymore and then you will know what it does!
 
Last edited:
Brown IIRC is part of the start circuit. Go look on the starter relay. There should be a brown and a yellow. Brown there EDIT, goes to the starter, and yellow goes to the neutral start sw.
In the early years, like yours, Chrysler rarely changed wire colors in one circuit and rarely used the same color and gauge somewhere else. You have there, what appears to be the same color and gauge as you will find at the start relay.
I would therefore jump to the conclusion that they are part of the same circuit, and would next attempt to prove it.

The horn-wire feed would be Violet
The brushes should be green and blue, the big fat out put should be black.
The 12 ga.brown at the starter relay is supposed to go to the starter and nowhere else.
It seems to me I once changed out a very big alternator in a non-A-body, and it had an extra wire.Yeah, but it was 6 ga black and went straight to ground, and was bolted onto the case on a stud. That was a 100Amp job.

I would also check at the battery for a big brown wire like that; somebody might have run an Ammeter bypass directly from the alternator output stud, to the battery, in an attempt to solve another problem. He might have pirated the brown start circuit wire from another harness.If he did, the other end might still have it's original horseshoe connector, stuffed into the positive battery clamp.

BTW, how well do your pulleys line up; something looks fishy about all those washers stacked up on the mount?
And what exactly are we working on?

Until you figure it out, disconnect it, insulate it, and zip-tie it to something it cannot short to. Maybe something won't be working anymore and then you will know what it does!

That brown wire on the alternator was traced and had strong continuity to the connector that goes tot he resistor though?

Only way it was able to line up even though I bought the bracket from Ebay. I cant get my P/S pump to tension the belt as a line hits the frame

I am working on a 1972 Dodge Dart which originally had a Slant 6 225 CI.

Now has a LA 318 I am using the original Alternator.
 
Last edited:
That brown wire on the alternator was traced and had strong continui

I am working on a 1972 Dodge Dart which originally had a Slant 6 225 CI.

Now has a LA 318 I am using the original Alternator.
So why do you wait to mention this was a slant 6 engine harness?!?!?
All we know is what we read and see ( LA distributer location in pic ).
Your brown wire is common to ballast resistor because it once went to the ignition coil. And it should still go to there, just taped out of the harness at a different length for a different coil location.
 
Last edited:
Ditto. Thick brown wire (14 awg?) is IGN2 in my 60's Mopars, which is powered in the "crank" key position to bypass the ballast resistor and apply full +12 V to coil+ when cranking. That is why you find it connected to the downstream side of the ballast resistor, just like the wiring schematic shows.

The 1st photo shows it connected to the alternator case as a ground. As mentioned, some later ~80's Mopars started grounding the case (not in 1972), instead of relying on the return path thru the bracket and block. But, one would need at least 12 awg wire for that since the return current equals the alternator output current (>30 A).
 
-
Back
Top