alternator wiring with HEI for 74 help ...

[swingin408]

How are you guys wiring your alternator with hei ignitions (without ballast resistor) ?
I'm doing a complete re-wire with an ez harness . I have a brand new alternator ( 2 field ) and new regulator but I'm not getting a charge . every diagram online if for the stock system .
Does the -field need to get grounded ?
Any help would be appreciated

 

[TrailBeast]

One field wire should be positive and the other field terminal goes to the regulator I think.
HEI has nothing to do with it, as it is just on or off via the ignition switch.

There are downloadable service manuals here if you use the search function you'll find them.

 

[swingin408]

Thanks Trailbeast.
I guess what I was questioning is since i don't run a ballast resistor, if that wire would just go to my switched ignition now ? I can't see why I wouldn't get any charge unless my regulator is toast . it was new in box but I've had it for years in storage .

 

[67Dart273]

None of these harnesses are "Mopar friendly."

One of the alternator field terminals...........

and the VR IGN terminal should get switched 12V "in run" from the key

The remaining alternator field terminal goes (green) back to the VR F terminal.

The VR MUST be grounded

Simple diagram, from MyMopar:

I BELIEVE the generic harnesses pretty much have an "exitation" wire in them. Check it over, it probably is same as switched ignition

Many of us with generic harnesses have bypassed the resistor "right at the key." Hook the IGN1 and IGN2 terminals together at the switch. This is because the "run" (IGN1) goes dead in cranking.

 

[TrailBeast]

Thanks Trailbeast.
I guess what I was questioning is since i don't run a ballast resistor, if that wire would just go to my switched ignition now ? I can't see why I wouldn't get any charge unless my regulator is toast . it was new in box but I've had it for years in storage .

Yes, the wire/wires that used to supply the ballast would be your new coil power supply.
If you had the four wire ballast then you would connect both of the key side wires of the ballast together and use those to power the HEI coil.
Four wire ballasts have one wire for the run position of the key and another for the start position of the key.
You want power in both positions, so tie them together. (If you have a four wire ballast)

Two wire ballasts can be removed and the key side wire used for the HEI coil.

Follow Del's advice on the wiring/charging and you will have it figured out in no time.

 

[swingin408]

Thanks for the help guys !
I was making it harder than it should have . I was ignoring the alternator "Excitor wire in my new harness .
That is my switched sourced .
I'm wired up and charging now !

 

[Logan]

Here's what I'm doing...

Note the neg coil wire on its way to the HEI module does not connect to the distributor wiring. [I shouldn't have let the lines touch in the sketch.]

Less clutter with the relay under the dash. I relocated the HEI module to the fire wall near the distributor and the voltage regulator closer to the alternator for cleaner wire runs.

I ran a 6ga wire from the alt output to the starter relay (not the positive battery post as shown) and a cable from the battery to the starter relay. I incorporated the 6ga wire into the headlight harness in front of the radiator and did the headlight relay mod at the same time. I'm going to add all the changes and clean up the drawing and save for future reference.

Here's a soldering tip that worked great for me... Use a soldering iron like in the picture. Heat it up with an acetylene torch. Solders the big wires like a champ without overheating them.