aluminum heads

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moparwelder340

moparwelder340

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any body buy and use the aluminum heads from 440 source? are they worth 999? how well do they work out of the box? should you pull apart and check them? are they even close to trick flows?
 
Not sure about the current batch. I have a set from when they first started selling them.Took them to a head shop and they had 26 hours of labor in them.Things like tight guides,miss matched margins on the valves and seats,matching valve spring pressures and height.Now this guy is super anal and may have been excessive,but his thoughts were that they are well made for the money.Also bought a set of Edelbrocks that were pulled from the box and bolted on 11 years ago and still running today.I am sure that if I took them to the same guy,,he would have found fault with them too.Just a thought..
 
moper said:
Stealths are $1,000, plus the valve job, plus the springs, retainers, and locks. Plus the bolts. Plus the right head gaskets. Works out to $2100 or so for me ready to install them.
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Just food for thought.

I'd go with the edelbrocks.
 
moparwelder340 said:
any body buy and use the aluminum heads from 440 source? are they worth 999? how well do they work out of the box? should you pull apart and check them? are they even close to trick flows?
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Are you referring to the CNC ported Stealth head for $999.95 each? If so, even they don't come close to matching the quality of the new Trick Flow heads for $100 more.
 
Oh yeah, forgot about 440 Source telling me not to use the retainers and locks supplied with the heads and go to Comp 10 degree retainers and locks.
Did see the Trick Flow head at the SEMA show.Looks like a high quality piece.
 
There is a thread on the Trick Folws here and on moparts. I am referring to the standard Stealth head - not the CNC or Super Stealths.
 
i understand but for a budget 999. a PAIR....doesnt seem to bad. ive only have a stock block,nothing fancy....yet
 
I have Stealth's . They are a good product,and are better than a factory iron head.If you are looking at a replacement head that will improve performance,the Stealth's will do the job. For a all out max effort,the Trick Flow's are the way to go. My Stealth's checked out fine,and I changed the springs,locks and retainers to Comp stuff as I race my car.
 
moparwelder340 said:
i understand but for a budget 999. a PAIR....doesnt seem to bad. ive only have a stock block,nothing fancy....yet
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Since you compared them to the newTrick Flows, you got your answer. If your going to build up a nice big block later, purchase the Trick Flows now for later. They will still work on lowly engines in the same manor as a ported head, just with a much higher ceiling.
 
Chris2421 said:
For a all out max effort,the Trick Flow's are the way to go.
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The Trick Flows are a stock replacement head, not even close to being a max effort piece. I hope TFS will eventually make a high end racing head, but that won't happen until they're sure it makes sense to do so - which is when they know Mopar people will buy their products.
 
I say use them.I think they have been selling them for close to 10 years now. I plan on using the 440 Source heads on a low compression 1977 440 block with stock pistons.The smaller chamber will give a bit more compression than the stock 452 head that was on the engine.Gonna be a pump gas street cruiser with highway gears 63 Belvedere. For my plans I think they will work great.
 
If you want a stock looking alum head, the stealth is the ticket. If you don't care, other options are out there, with the TFS heading being about the best using stock style rocker gear.
 
Darter, I know nothing about heads, but I can do math ( calculator ). If your machinist ONLY charges $50 per hour, which I dought, if I spent $1000 on the heads and then my machinist charged me $1300 to fix them,,... I'd be flipping my lid! Wooo.
 
knowing the advantage and expense of running a reliable and good flowing head.
when I replace the full ported hp 915's, it will be with trickflows.
I'm just waiting for some dyno and track feedback.
 
Phil,One good thing is the guy is my brother-in -law.(Very anal)He retired from the head business but has all the equipment.So it was no charge.Out here hourly rate is pushing $100-$105.Other than changing retainers & locks I would have run them.
 
I really do believe that it was just "What HE didn't like,," not that anything was wrong with them.
 
I put the regular stealthy and home port blended them, had a machine shop check them out, had to just fix 2 guides or just debur them, nothing major needed to be done, and they set the spring height. Bought these year and a half ago, have just started the motor but haven't had a problem, swapped out to the 10 degree retainers and run a 1.7 aluminum rockers on them.
 
I have a set of standard 440 Stealths purchased bare. Had Hughes prep them w/ valve job, milled them to 75cc`s and I finished the port work myself - @ $2,000 all in all. Going with a Comp cam kit w/ springs, locks, retainers etc. As long as I get the cam, intake setup, and tuning right my `74 cast crank motor should wake up. One good thing about the Stealths is that plugs etc. are all in stock location; necessary for my setup w/ Proparts headers......
 
I have them.. we'll see what kind of carnage they have when I pull them off the motor, they look great out of the box for sure.. and I bolted them on out of the box, no work done to them. Cleaned the head gasket surface and bolted down with their head bolt kit

Motor was fresh, ran for 20 minutes and sounded great til it back fired thru the carb, stalled, and locked up..

If I did it again I'd get new/used Edelbrocks
 
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