Am I crazy for doing this on a 65 Barracuda ?

[jeff alder]

Both used or old stock, the rubber will not be flexible enough any more.

I have 6 1965 thru 1966 Barracudas with original rubbers and they are all still in good shape. Someone was repopping them if I can just remember ill forward it to you Woody,

 

[jeff alder]

i believe the part number is 2573606

 

[Kemper]

in the second pic above i'd grind the new 'lip' to match the width all the way round. it's a dead giveaway as to how the repair was done and looks unfinished. i'm not criticizing as i've repaired arches the same way myself before.
neil.

The width can't be ground down , I said above " The panel tapers up to this edge slightly just as the original and this piece is wide enough to allow for a bead of sealant on the backside before undercoating.

It has to be that wide because of the Approx. 1/2 inch panel. But yeah, if it wasn't for that it could be made to match.

 

[Kemper]

Both used or old stock, the rubber will not be flexible enough any more.

Mine were flexible yet. Must be some good rubber because it is made fairly thin where it flexes. I've had some that weren't though.

 

[mygasser]

i meant this lip is 'stock' so has an even width with no wobbly edge.

whereas the repaired other arch lip does and could be 'right' with a small amount of grinding or even filing as it's only 'glass.

hope i'm making sense?
neil.

 

[Kemper]

'65 and '66 valve covers were the same. '67 had the rubber grommet for the PCV.

i meant this lip is 'stock' so has an even width with no wobbly edge.
View attachment 1716457804
whereas the repaired other arch lip does and could be 'right' with a small amount of grinding or even filing as it's only 'glass.
View attachment 1716457805
hope i'm making sense?
neil.

Okay. I think I got what you are talking about. Yes, I can dress that up a bit. The bottom section up to about the beginning of the bullet that I replaced is okay but I could make the area look better where I blended in. Thanks.

 

[mygasser]

Okay. I think I got what you are talking about. Yes, I can dress that up a bit. The bottom section up to about the beginning of the bullet that I replaced is okay but I could make the area look better where I blended in. Thanks.

cool, it's those little things that then won't draw the eye straight to them which can make the difference.
neil.

 

[Woody500]

My rubber vent flaps are as hard as rocks. Same as my parts cars' were. Indiana not that weather different than Missouri so storage must be why. Or air quality, maybe.

 

[Kemper]

mygasser -
" cool, it's those little things that then won't draw the eye straight to them which can make the difference.
neil. "

Yes, and I emphasized keeping those cracks clean where the trim meets the body and the areas like the windshield and back glass rubber . I didn't see any damage around those area but was wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to do something like Woddy500 was talking about and injecting something in there between the rubber seal and the body.
I cleaned that area out and removed some paint from the rubber that someone got on it, but perhaps a rust reformer shot in there where it doesn't show may be a good idea.

( I forgot to insert your quote at first and when editing I had to put it in as shown )

 

[Kemper]

I would also like to add that my car had issues in most areas in rgeards to paint damge . If someone's car had tight paint on the larger areas ,top,hood ,doors etc. a wet sand may be good enough.

 

[Kemper]

Not much update. If anyone wants to contact me about any issue on this preservation, you can also reach me at -
Gary Kemper
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[Kemper]

I painted the car with a satin enamel with hardener in it. Turned out nice I restored the wheels and the license plate and am restoring the license plate light.

 

[72dustervs]

nice project , will be a great driver

 

[volaredon]

Well, my hat's off to you for all of the work you have done.
In my opinion, those $16,000 paint jobs are highly over rated.
By doing it your way, you get a good driver and will enjoy the car more overall.
And it won't break the bank!
Some people may scowl at the work and call it a waste of time and money, but I for one are thrilled about the fact of keeping it simple and enjoying the car.
And the people that criticize your work or your car, are usually people that don't realize budget builds.
I've had more fun with the cars that I've owned and driven over the years that weren't perfect or shiny!
All I do now is make the car safe, reliable, and good driving.
In the past I did a '71 Duster that was very nice and painted shiny with a rebuilt drivetrain and interior, the works.
I never had much fun with that car, with worrying about the weather and rock chips, and storing it in the winter.
I ended up selling it and building cars that were more realistic for my tastes...
Good on ya!

I'm doing a ground up body off resto/ overhaul of a (possibly) less desirable project for many, an 83 D250. I have about a grand just in sandblasting the body and frame, including epoxy primed frame plus $300 just in 2 stage Sherwin Williams industrial epoxy poly paint on the frame (I actually sprayed the frame myself, a bigger spray gun paint job in itself than Ive done in years) that without the help of someone I know that works at the local Sherwin Williams plant and their employee price would have been over $500 for the gallon of paint and quart of activation/ hardener just for my frame paint

and the body in pieces is at a paint shop of which I'm told may wind up at $10 grand with me doing the reassembly... and I haven't even gotten into a motor yet....

 

[Kemper]

I'm doing a ground up body off resto/ overhaul of a (possibly) less desirable project for many, an 83 D250. I have about a grand just in sandblasting the body and frame, including epoxy primed frame plus $300 just in 2 stage Sherwin Williams industrial epoxy poly paint on the frame (I actually sprayed the frame myself, a bigger spray gun paint job in itself than Ive done in years) that without the help of someone I know that works at the local Sherwin Williams plant and their employee price would have been over $500 for the gallon of paint and quart of activation/ hardener just for my frame paint

and the body in pieces is at a paint shop of which I'm told may wind up at $10 grand with me doing the reassembly... and I haven't even gotten into a motor yet....

It'll be nice when you're done and there is nothing wrong with that. This started out and remained a "preservation " but turned out nicer than I originally intended.
Hopefully it encourages someone to do something to a car they have ,knowing they don't have to spend a lot of money, if that is holding them back.

 

[Kemper]

I just made a chrome sticker for the centers of the wheels. 3 of them still had the factory aluminum disc but they were messed up. I thought the chrome looked better with the lugs .
While I had the front wheels off I removed the rear splash shield and cleaned out that area and treated it. Couldn't believe the amount of stuff in there. Metal was good and solid yet.
Scraped the loose undercoat off the shield,sanded and treated it and the hardware. 1/2 in bolt broke off but I had another clip nut and bolt.
Good enough at this point to just treat this stuff and put it back on. The front splash shield is mising on this side. I have some and will be getting back into this area . Also didn't replace narrow wetherstrips on edges of shiels. Top rubber seals look good. Even if I don't get back in here, it's not that big of deal as far as preserving what's here. If the crap isn't allowed to build up in there it won't be a problem.
It'll come back off very easily next time .

 

[Kemper]

I got the license light restored and, it's just a little thing but I was able to repair the body plug that was in 2 pieces. This plug is part of the wiring and to replace it you would have to remove one end of the wire . You can see it in 2 pieces in an earlier pic. I super glued it together only to make sure it was set properly. I then use black RTV to lay a bead in the flange and also a coat on the indented surface.
I pulled around on it and it is secure so shouldn't be a problem . Was able to keep original light on the car .

 

[Kemper]

My car is finished . Had to change the windshield as it was delaminating all over. I have a new tinted and shaded one but didn't use it. I used an original one that I had that was in pretty nice condition and thought it looked better on this project.
Bought a new rubber gasket but I had to fix it. The more repop parts you can keep off your car, the better. Gasket looks like it wasn't installed right but that wasn't the problem. The outer edge was made wrong.

Might paint stripes on it, but haven't decided yet. Probably have less than 1k in this " preservation " Feel good that I left as much original metal in the car and have as many original parts as I could. I'll take an original part with blemishes over an aftermarket part.