Am I justified in my frustration?

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What would a pick and pull tell you? Their sales are final, over and done, end of story. I don't get the impression Troy was trying to rip you off. Maybe he should have included the info of how long it laid out on the open, but he didn't. If somebody tries to rip you off, they don't offer refunds of any kind.....whether you think it was to "keep your mouth shut" or not. He didn't have to do that, but he did. Why does it matter what the reason was and can you even prove it was to keep your mouth shut? Probably not. I think both sides made some mistakes, with you (buyer) making the biggest by not inspecting. If the thing isn't busted or otherwise unbuildable, clean it up, replace what needs to be and use hell out of it. For 250, you're lookin purdy good now.
 
The other camp actually says it was a face to face sale and he did not try to scam you as you are implying.

He knew the diff was open to the elements, rain and such. He didn’t divulge that till I called him on it. I didn’t get that disclaimer.

He knew information that would put it in a negative light and went the other direction.
 
He knew the diff was open to the elements, rain and such. He didn’t divulge that till I called him on it. I didn’t get that disclaimer.

He knew information that would put it in a negative light and went the other direction.

But had you inspected it, you would have known it. If it was as bad as you say...and I believe it from the pictures, it should have jumped right out at you. You obviously totally ignore inspecting it and now keep going and going and going. You had plenty of time to back out but you didn't.
 
What would a pick and pull tell you? Their sales are final, over and done, end of story. I don't get the impression Troy was trying to rip you off. Maybe he should have included the info of how long it laid out on the open, but he didn't. If somebody tries to rip you off, they don't offer refunds of any kind.....whether you think it was to "keep your mouth shut" or not. He didn't have to do that, but he did. Why does it matter what the reason was and can you even prove it was to keep your mouth shut? Probably not. I think both sides made some mistakes, with you (buyer) making the biggest by not inspecting. If the thing isn't busted or otherwise unbuildable, clean it up, replace what needs to be and use hell out of it. For 250, you're lookin purdy good now.

This is a pretty good assessment of the situation. Thank you for the input.
Kinda what I said in the post RIGHT before Troy entered the discussion.
 
Again, it begs the question, is a seller responsible for validating a part IS good before claiming its good?

That was the impetus of this thread.


He didn't sell you a "good" part, he sold you a "rebuildable core"

What that means, is where the rub lies
 
Porch shittin.jpeg
 
Again, it begs the question, is a seller responsible for validating a part IS good before claiming its good?

That was the impetus of this thread.
It seems to me, YOUR idea of "rebuildable core" is one you can use as-is without a full rebuild. A rebuildable core is exactly what you bought, and received. Whether or not YOU have the skill to rebuild it is irrelevant. 2c
 
So can I ask? How many members will buy that rear diff as is from go-fish for $350.00? Not 1 member I bet. Sure some will say they will but will the actually do it? Not a chance. And I think he would gladly sell it too u. I couldn’t in good conscience sell a diff like that. Kim
 
So can I ask? How many members will buy that rear diff as is from go-fish for $350.00? Not 1 member I bet. And I think he would gladly sell it too u. I couldn’t in good conscience sell a diff like that. Kim

The more appropriate question is - who would've bought that rearend as-is without inspecting it?

For $250, he did fine.
 
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@oldkimmer better question. If you were selling an 8-3/4 rebuildable core in this condition what would you price it at, at a swap meet. Probably $250-$350. It’s not a terrible sale at all. And when the seller found out it was in less desirable condition than he thought he refunded $100! This is ridiculous really.
 
A good Mopar bud that used to go to all the big Mopar swaps once said "fastest way to get a tit in the ringer, is selling mechanical parts"!
But, he sold parts that he guaranteed to be right, and they sure were NOT cheap either!!
He was a life long mechanic and he know every detail of chit.
 
@oldkimmer better question. If you were selling an 8-3/4 rebuildable core in this condition what would you price it at, at a swap meet. Probably $250-$350. It’s not a terrible sale at all. And when the seller found out it was in less desirable condition than he thought he refunded $100! This is ridiculous really.
I would never take that to a swap meet in that condition. Kim
 
I would never take that to a swap meet in that condition. Kim
Maybe not but that’s almost exactly what swap meets are for. If you inspected this unit and put time and effort in to making it into a more usable part you’d ask more money for it.
 
Well, Troy made the point to me that seals it when he made mention that any business would accept that rear end as a core, say, if they were replacing yours with a reman or some such and required a core. Since it doesn't appear to have anything stickin through it anywhere, parts stores would even accept it as a core. So he's right there.

We all have different ideas and opinions of "what's what". That's something to think about, too.
And expectations. @250 or 300 it's not really total loss.
That's pretty much a housing and case with the rest a toss n replace. Still not worth a thread.
 
Hello. I need to clarify a few things.

As I said before I purchased a stash of parts from a friend of mine and this differential was one of the items. I had no prior knowledge of the condition of it. I purchased hundreds of parts that day and this diff was just one item. I saw it, installed the axle that was laying next to it into the housing, tapped it into place and loaded it up. It was not laying in a puddle of rain water and it was not even out in the open. It was under a car port. Most of you here know what a “rusty” , back east diff looks like……very heavily pitted on the outside, brake line tabs rusted off and all the third member mounting bolts frozen on. This diff is a topical California suspension part, no pitting, plenty of inspection marks still visible and no pitting. I had no reason to believe that this diff was not “rebuildable”, none what so ever. Yes I knew the pinion was stuck but I did not think it was a big deal on a low priced, rebuildable rear end. The Dana in my Barracuda was in much worse condition when I got it. Had it rebuilt. They changed the clutches, bearings and gears…….

I had no idea that this post even existed till after 8:00 pm Thursday night. I offered a refund at 12:00ish on Thursday, sent the refund within minutes. I was relieved that it was over. Started working on my car and was notified that this bitchfest was happening. Looked it up and could not believe what was being said. For $250 he got a ton of good parts. That diff is in very nice condition and in the right hands will end up back on the road again with no issues.
 
I would never take that to a swap meet in that condition. Kim

Kim, what is the difference between that differential and the brake calipers that you sold? Those were nice pair of calibers…..brackets were there, lines were on them, very complete. Did you take them apart to see if the cups were pitted? Would you take those calibers to a swap meet and sell them? What the difference?
 
I would never take that to a swap meet in that condition. Kim

You’re selling 30 over 340 block for $700 with rusty bores. I’ve bought std bore motors with less rust on one side of bore not all over. And it did not fully clean up with 30 overbore.... A seller could: hot tanked it, magnafluxed it, sonic tested, even rough bored that to make sure it rebuildable. Of course most people don’t. And if they do, they ask more money.

So who knows if it’s rebuildable?

[FOR SALE] - 340 block
 
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