American AutoWire

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Hope you do a detailed "how I did" on this. I downloaded the pdfs on site, when I get time.....lol
 
67Dart273 said:
Hope you do a detailed "how I did" on this. I downloaded the pdfs on site, when I get time.....lol
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for what I paid for the harness, a film crew should be included to document the install!!!
 
JoeSBP said:
for what I paid for the harness, a film crew should be included to document the install!!!
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LMAO:cheers: I have ordered their stuff before with great satisfaction. It's been a while. I believe they have a division called Factory Fit that specializes in correct connectors/harnesses to factory specifications. They may now only call themselves American Autowire
 
A replacement headlight switch with internal 25-amp circuit breaker, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob.
Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher, and horn relay mounted on harness.
Fuse box designed to fit in original location with mods to the firewall, template included. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
Many original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature.
Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock ‘67-‘75 Mopar columns using the adapter and terminals included in the kit.
Separate under dash courtesy lamp assemblies are also included for use along with your original dome/interior lighting feeds.
Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original style terminals, lamp sockets, connectors, and locking nuts that will attach to the original cluster (another American Autowire exclusive) are provided for stock cluster connections. The system will also connect into most popular aftermarket gauges such as CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, AUTOMETER, VDO, and others.
Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location and our longer leads allow for stock or custom routing of the wires. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with correct lamp sockets or connectors, stop and tail light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, dome light leads, terminals, connectors and lamp sockets to mate with the license plate lamp and side marker assemblies, and fuel tank sender wire with trunk grommet and tank connection.
New floor dimmer switch is provided for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type distributors, OEM Chrysler style starter relay connections, tach and ignition leads, etc. High-powered 1-wire alternator connections are supplied.
Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional applications. All head light, parking light, and directional light leads, along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC) are provided. Mating terminals and connectors are also provided for you to complete your custom installation.
Many original style light sockets, switch body connectors, terminals, etc.
This product covers the following year/make/model combinations:
1967-75 Dodge Dart
1971-72 Dodge Demon
1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda
1967-75 Plymouth Valiant
1970-75 Plymouth Duster
 
Holy crap! I just bought the M&H under dash harness. ..I thought IT was expensive!

Can't wait to see your installation!

Jeff
 
if its anything like their other products it will be an awesome kit..

$800 isn't a bad price in the end. try wiring your entire car the "right" way and see what that costs.. its gonna be over $1000 easy.

wish they had that when i did my dart. my highway 22 was almost $400 if i remember. then all the stuff to retrofit it into my dart. i replaced every single piece of wire and rebuilt every socket. that cost was over $1000 in the end. but it was don't right and performed flawlessly right out of the gate.
 
Just to update y'all. Kit arrived quickly, but I was out of town for work, and have been extremely busy since. Kit looks very very well sorted with new bulb socketsetc to make the install go easy. I really like how the gauge cluster wires up to a pigtail, that then plugs into the harness, less chance of damaging the circuit board. One issue I realized is that it doesn't allow you the ability to use a "1-wire", that is the only thing you can run. I shot them an e-mail explaining I plan on running a 3-wire denso from a toyota, so we will see. I will be starting the install this weekend, looking forward to it.
 
should be easy to wire in a 3 wire charging system.. just look at it as a stand alone syetem and it will be easy to figure out.
 
Oh it will be very simple especially with everything going in new, but the fact is I don't think most guys run a 1 wire alternator, so I know hey are going to get pushback from others as well. If you are going to offer the best, and charge a premium, blah blah
 
JoeSBP said:
Oh it will be very simple especially with everything going in new, but the fact is I don't think most guys run a 1 wire alternator, so I know hey are going to get pushback from others as well. If you are going to offer the best, and charge a premium, blah blah
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I did a lot of mods to the under dash and engine harnesses that I bought new. Did the ammeter bypass did away with the ballast and installed a Denso 60. Wish I'd of documented it all. Had all the harnesses front to rear along with a steering column laid out on my living room floor to ring it all out, still ended up with a bad new ignition switch in the column which I found after installing in the car. As far as push back do what's right for you and what you want. Nothing like ripping into 700 or 800 dollar new harness to do your thing. Been there.
 
Any progress? Waiting to hear your experiences before I pull the trigger so I know what I'm in for.
 
Sorry no recent posts on this gents, moving along at a crawl as work is keeping me ragged.
I started the install over the weekend and couldn't be more pleased with this kit. Everything is marked very well, instructions are simple and easy to understand. Every possible accessory you could imagine is built into the harness to easily tie in later on if desired. It reminds me of a factory harness with one of the generic harnesses built piggybacked on. The optional accessories are built into the main fuse box, with a pigtail and required connectors all there for future use. The new fuse box actually mounts in place of the old bulk head connector. A template is supplied and you drill two small holes in the firewall. The engine harness plugs directly into the back of the fuse block. The only snag I have really hit is that my automotive barrel crimpers are too wide to accomodate some of the supplied terminals that have index tabs like the 56 type. I'm just going to trim the jaw inserts down on a belt sander. I was a little irritated that it has no provision to run a 3-wire alternator, only a stand alone 1-wire. I plan on eventually moving the battery to the trunk, and I want a dummy light, so I'm just going to add the 2x wires that will be needed..
 
Spent a little time on the car today. Traced over all the stock wiring to expose it all so I can lay old/new side by side as I work. Giving the new harness a look I'm concerned about the design of the combined bulkhead connector/fuse block. It looks like they just created a piece to mount to the back of an existing fuse block. The bulkhead connector piece is sandwiched between the fuse block and the bulkhead. It's held in place by two common bolts. It just looks like a very fast and dirty design and I would much rather have had a separate fuse block that mounted in the stock position and a separate bulk head connector. I'd feel better if there were 3 or 4 bolts instead of just 2. The connector's indexing tabs are also too large to fit through my bulkhead hole. You can see in the template pic it's much smaller. I can simply trim them off, but I'm waiting for the green light from AAW to do that first.

[PHOTO DELETED BY STAFF - PLEASE USE REASONABLY SIZED PHOTOS]
 
Joe, give me a call when you get a chance. I was not able to get through to you through email. 800-482-9473 ext-212
 
Just some general information about this wiring system:

- This 1967-75 Mopar A Body Classic Update Kit is not designed to be stock replacement wiring. That is a different animal altogether and is available through Classic Industries. To order each harness for an entire vehicle in the OEM replacement wiring will cost you about $1500. Our product is not meant to compete with that. Someone looking to keep their car all original should go with the OEM replacement wiring. Our system is a year/make/model-specific, complete, upgraded wiring system for a modified vehicle.

- This was far from a fast and dirty design. We spent the better part of a year designing this kit, and a former Chrysler engineer did the bulk of the work. If you take a look at the instructions, I think you will see that this wiring system was well thought out, and we do not leave many questions unanswered. There is not something comparable on the market.

- Please call our Technical Support line if you have any questions, concerns, or feedback. We have very knowledgable Techs available Mon-Fri from 8-5 ET @ 1-800-482-9473 option 4. If you are unable to call us during those hours, please email us @ [email protected] or [email protected]. You'll get an email response in less than 24 hours. If anyone has contacted our Technical Support team in the past, you know that our team is extremely helpful and knowledgable.

I hope this info helps. We'll be glad to answer your questions here as well.

AAW Tech
 
Spoke to these guys today about this kit. They were aware of your trouble and had in fact just had a meeting about it. Apparently one of their employees conceptualized this kit while re-wiring a friends Duster. They spent a lot of time and energy developing this kit to make it as complete as possible. I did some research on EZ and Painless's websites and spoke to a nice woman at Ron Francis as well today and I have decided to pull the trigger on this one. I don't have any of the old wiring harness from my 1967 Dart and this kit comes with everything including the bulb sockets. No one else's kit even came close. I downloaded and printed 7 different sets of instructions from their website. They were remarkable detailed and clear. Premium price hopefully premium quality. I'll post again after the install and see if I am still as enthused.
 
I figured out the issue, and it was operator error. The fuse block has to be mounted 90degrees on its side with the harness running out of the top. It does not describe that in the instructions, but is visible in the picture if you look closely. In this position it looked like the steering column bracing would interfere with one of the flashers, but there is enough clearance. I stand by my opinion that I would rather have a separate fuse block and bulkhead connector vs this design, but with it mounted in, the two piece unit is solid and I have no concerns of issues. Anyone using this kit, I STRONGLY suggest mounting the bulkhead template to a piece of heavy card stock, plastic, or tin. I mounted mine to a thin strip of sheet metal and cut it out with shears. I left two tabs on the inside that allowed me to seat it hands free and scribe my marks.

Moving forward!
 

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75slant6 said:
How'd this all turn out?
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sorry I haven't updated this. Still not 100% complete with the install as i've been in and out of the country with work. Dash harness, engine, and front light harness is in, just need to finish up the rear body harness. I am very impressed with this harness. Every single thing you need is there**. The instructions are very clear and the install is very easy and going smooth. Very easy to customize this harness to suit your individual needs as well. I would def purchase it again. Once the harness is fully installed and I get some miles on it to validate no bugs, I will pull it out to do the final dress up with mini-zipties, F6 covering, dielectric greas, silicone up the bulkhead, etc. I'll post some pics then, or pics of anything specific y'all request to see. Honestly my hats off to guys that can do a project and document it well with detailed pics. I barely have the time to do the work, much less take pics!

**this harness is designed to be ran with a 1-wire alternator. It has no provision to run a stock alt with external VR, or 3-wire Denso with internal VR. I just used extra wire from the kit(VSS wiring) and ran a sense wire from the starter solenoid stud, and used the keyed 12v for the electric choke as the excite wire.
With a 70amp Denso I'm seeing 14.3v from idle to 6k . After speaking with AAW they are aware there is a strong desire to run the 3-wire Denso and are looking at altering future harnesses for this. Regardless it would be easy to retrofit it to add the simple circuit for the excite wire if you need to retain the electric choke..
 
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