AMP instructions vs Ammeter help!

-

macman340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
292
Reaction score
58
Location
Little River, SC
Maybe you can school me please FABO !

I'm installing a new aftermarket wiring harness in my 64 Dart the instructions say
( AMP METER INSTRUCTIONS)
If you are using an Amp meter you will need to route the 10 GA Solenoid PWR=Red wire from the fuse panel to the amp meter and then from the other post of the amp meter out to your positive BAT source.

There are indeed 2 posts on the back of my cluster one marker ALT and the opposite one is unmarked! Although I've read that there is a difference between an ammeter and an amp gauge

Also in the diagram it shows 3 posts, one of them a ground!
New to electrical so in English please, ready to fire her uP & don't want to melt her down!

IMG_0539.JPG
 
What they are showing in the drawing is a VOLT meter It goes from power to ground

An AMMETER (or amp meter same thing) measures CURRENT and is wired in series.

The "rules" for ammeter is, only the battery hooks to one terminal, and the generator/ alternator output and all loads hook to the other side, except of course the main big starter circuit

Then, if turning on the lights shows "charge" just reversed the wires on the two posts

BE CAREFUL. The original wiring is NOT FUSED in that circuit. Unhook the battery ground when messing with this!!
 
Although I've read that there is a difference between an ammeter and an amp gauge
No. Maybe in some specialized situation, but if so, not typical.

( AMP METER INSTRUCTIONS)
If you are using an Amp meter you will need to route the 10 GA Solenoid PWR=Red wire from the fuse panel to the amp meter and then from the other post of the amp meter out to your positive BAT source.
Some automobiles use a remote 'starter solenoid' for the heavy battery cable to connect to the starter. Chryslers have a remote relay in the same location, and the heavy cable goes to a solenoid on the starter. Knowing that, here's what your instructions tell me.

oddAMPinstructions.png

Now this doesn't fully make sense. The ignition switch and headlights are not normall on the other side of a Chrysler fuse box. Is this harness use the origonal fusebox or its own? Also, in the mid 1960s a fusible link was placed in the circuit from the battery.
Some info here: Understanding Charging Systems with Ammeter
New to electrical so in English please, ready to fire her uP & don't want to melt her down!
Post up some photos - I personally don't know what instrumentation is on your '64 Dart. Not everything stayed the same from the first A-bodies to the last, and I don't want to guess with your '64; And none of us can guess what this aftermarket kit includes..
 
Last edited:
If electricty is all new, knowing the difference between Volts and amperes is important.
Current flows from high voltage to lower voltage.

Volts are potential energy. Imagine water in a big holding tank on a roof 12.5 feet above the ground. This is similar to a battery with 12.5 Volts. The water in the tank is not flowing, but it has potential to flow. Same idea with the electricity in the battery.
Amps are a measurement of flow. In electricity the flow is called current. If a valve at the bottom of the water tank is opened, water flows into a hose or pipe until it reaches ground. The amount of water flowing can be measured in gallons per minute (or litres/second, etc). The gallons per minute are like amperes of electricity. If we punched a big hole in the water tank, the water coming out would be so much and so fast that it might knock a person down.

Power is the combination of voltage and current. The flow from 12' above the ground makes the power that knocks the guy down.
(Electric power is usually given in Watts. )
 
A Voltmeter can NOT be wired in series.
The current will not flow through a voltmeter ---------------------
If you have a voltmeter (as shown in the post #1 diagram) do not set it up as we have described.

edit: Corrected per 67Dart273's post below.
 
Last edited:
A Voltmeter can NOT be wired in series.
The current must not flow through a voltmeter - that will destroy it.
If you have a voltmeter (as shown in the post #1 diagram) do not set it up as we have described.

No that is not true. A voltmeter in series with the battery and load will simply read battery voltage. The meter will not be hurt, but neither, will it pass enough current to operate any of the loads
 
No that is not true. A voltmeter in series with the battery and load will simply read battery voltage. The meter will not be hurt, but neither, will it pass enough current to operate any of the loads

I assumed it would try to send as much current as possible through the wires that move the d'arsonval mechanism. Hope I got that right - thinkin tired here.

edit: yes. of course you're right. Otherwise it would short to ground any time a measurement was made. original post corrected. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top