Another episode of "What will it run?!"

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Alrighty then...
Got to the TnT today. This trip I have a 3" exhaust built by myself with Jones Full Boar single chamber (flowmaster 10 knockoffs) and port matched intake. The first few runs were with the 850dp (doesn't seem to run right) those runs were VERY inconsistent ranging from 12.55-13.0. still 3.55 gears
Swapped back to the AED 750 which is already jetted, changed timing to 18 initial - 36 total.. consecutively ran:
(all three runs @ 6100 shift points)
1. 12.507/106.6 - 1.73 60ft - 7.91@85.97 1/8
2. 12.47/106 - 1.73 - 7.88@85.82
3. 12.44/106.7 - 1.72 - 7.87@86.04
gained a tenth and at almost 7000ft DA.. I think thats a solid win.
 
Update...
Hydraulic lifters suck. All 8 of these turds bleed down so bad at the end of a run it sounds like a 12v cummins. Which explains last few times at the track I notice the last 200+ ft of track the car does nothing, doesn't pull anymore. Then sounds like a diesel on the return road.

That being said.. There have been some changes and next year, I think this thing is gonna rip. The girlfriend has acquired a '73 duster. Basically my stroker and converter is getting plopped in it, probably with some better lifters. New engine and converter getting plopped into the dart.

New combo for Dart:
'92 roller 360 block
Scat forged rotating assy. rings have been gapped for nitrous
11.53:1 static comp
Promaxx Shocker heads - 284cfm @ .600 / 219@ .600 ex. (this may change to something else, not sure yet.)
Lunati 400200734 Solid Roller - 255/263 @ .050 .600/.600 lift (maybe? I like Lunati cams)
Comp Magnum 1.5 rockers
Victor 340 intake (would a Super Victor be better?)
850 or larger holley
Hughes transmission MVB
Dynamic 4200-5000 8" converter (have one new in box)
4.30 sure grip 8 3/4
Cal Trac monoleafs w/ trac bars (already installed)
still have the 255/60/15 MT ET street R tires



I guess we'll see how it hooks with the small tires.. For some reason I really want to make it work with the small tire just to say I did it. But not sure if that will pan out. I May break down and end up mini tubbing or at least spring relocation and see if I can fit some 275's.


Any input again, appreciated. And what do you think the new combo will run? -the average DA at my "local" track during the summer is usually 6000-7000ft.

Gratuitous engine pics...
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Lookin´good! What Lifters do you plan to use? Is there block modification necessary if using solid lifters?

Regarding the tires: with 255/60-15 ET Street R i had my best 60ft. up til now: 1.57 on a good track. So i think they can work if track prepping is right. At the moment i run the 28x9 Pro Bracket Radial, does fit into my Valiants wheel opening without rubbing with a 8" Wheel. BSP must be adjusted according axle width.

Michael
 
Lookin´good! What Lifters do you plan to use? Is there block modification necessary if using solid lifters?

Regarding the tires: with 255/60-15 ET Street R i had my best 60ft. up til now: 1.57 on a good track. So i think they can work if track prepping is right. At the moment i run the 28x9 Pro Bracket Radial, does fit into my Valiants wheel opening without rubbing with a 8" Wheel. BSP must be adjusted according axle width.

Michael
I was thinking about that size tire as well, I know lifters the link bars will hit ribbing on the block. But I haven't got the new ones yet, so haven't gotten that far. I do still have a budget, I know that the larger wheel lifters will be better but they're also double the price of the Howard's/morel? Lifters. Still toying with which ones.
 
Update...
Hydraulic lifters suck. All 8 of these turds bleed down so bad at the end of a run it sounds like a 12v cummins. Which explains last few times at the track I notice the last 200+ ft of track the car does nothing, doesn't pull anymore. Then sounds like a diesel on the return road.


If you are running a stock oil pan, it's not the lifters fault.
overfill you pan by 1 quart and see if it fixes it!
If it does, buy a oil pan that has oil dams in it. Most aftermarket pan do. or weld one in your stock pan.
It's getting a gulp of air and pissing off the Hyd lifters.

Your new combo looks good to me, BUT you need to add a oil pan to that list.:)
 
Update...
Hydraulic lifters suck. All 8 of these turds bleed down so bad at the end of a run it sounds like a 12v cummins. Which explains last few times at the track I notice the last 200+ ft of track the car does nothing, doesn't pull anymore. Then sounds like a diesel on the return road.


If you are running a stock oil pan, it's not the lifters fault.
overfill you pan by 1 quart and see if it fixes it!
If it does, buy a oil pan that has oil dams in it. Most aftermarket pan do. or weld one in your stock pan.
It's getting a gulp of air and pissing off the Hyd lifters.

Your new combo looks good to me, BUT you need to add a oil pan to that list.:)
New pan is a kevko with baffles... oil was a qt over full with the other engine, but with a stock style pan without baffles. I figured it might be some form of oil control rearing it's ugly head, I think it's a combo. The lifters don't like over 5500rpm, with the 4.30's it was about 6200 at the stripe. The new duster will have 3.55's in it, she wants to drive it all summer long. The plan is new lifters for the old engine as it's getting swapped and I was thinking about another kevko pan as well.
 
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Well, engine is together. Oil modded the heads to work with the block. Port matched the intake, dropped everything in, figured out my ignition problem and it fires up all purdy like. We'll see how it does at the track in about 3 months.

EDIT - the cam I used wasn't a lunati solid roller, I ended up with a Howards Solid roller.
289/299 257/267 .640/.645 108/104
Engine ended up being a touch above 11.5:1, closer to 11.8/11.9:1. So I think i'll have to look for some higher grade fuel. I think the relatively high altitude is helping at the moment.


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Sound real good..........Think new tires are, in the near future.:D
 
Sound real good..........Think new tires are, in the near future.:D
yeah, we'll see how these 255's do first (tires didn't last long with the old engine either)... then maybe i'll do some tweaking to fit 275's in. Kinda like the small tire, with the hood going back on I think it will surprise a few people. lol
 
First run this year was last month.
No tuning aside from around town and making it streetable, straight off the trailer, barely warm.
4800ft DA, Rolled into the throttle off idle. 24psi, CE 3ways @ 50/50 in rear, 90/10 in front, cal tracs adjusted just touching the spring in top hole.
6000rpm 1st 6400rpm 2nd at the traps about 6500rpm
60ft - 1.649
330 - 4.798
1/8 - 7.504 @ 90.33
1/4 - 11.86 @ 112.5

I did attempt one more run, tried to load up the converter a hair to see if I could get some form of hook. It spun 12.20@112.7 1.88 60ft.

Next test n tune is this saturday. I have since replaced my CE 3way shocks (since they seemed a little off and wouldn't click anymore, even the fronts) with rancho 9000 rears and a set of stock gabriel fronts (already had new ones in the garage). I also believe the engine was detonating a little bit, even with the loads of klotz octane booster. I put the timing back down to 30*and it seems to idle and rev much smoother. I think I'm going to grab some VP 110 and 50/50 mix with 91 for this weekend and see if I can get the timing up without hurting it.
I think I'm going to start the tires at 20psi, Rancho's set at 7 and no preload on the caltracs and timing at 30 to start. OH and I have new wheels, Fronts are a good bit lighter.
 
Hey folks. This is gonna be another episode of what will it run.

Honestly I'm curious about your opinions on a potential combination.
1973 Dodge Dart Swinger - 3300lbs? (just a guess haven't weighed it yet) - subframe connectors will also be added.
Engine -
360 - 4.060 bore (maybe - still waiting for the machine shop)
-3.58 stock crank
-stock rods
-Speedpro H116cp pistons w/ thin head gasket (maybe). Calculators show 10.2:1 with thin gaskets
-Speedmaster heads (yes they will be checked first and probably cleaned up)
-65cc chambers, 2.02/1.60 valves
- 1.5 SS roller tip rockers
-Mopar .557 solid cam 252/252 @ .050
- Air gap intake manifold will be port matched to the heads when it's all said and done
-Carb at the moment it is a Demon 650?625? VS carb. Also have a 750 edelbrock.
904 Transmission
-TF-2 kit
- 3500-3800 stall
Rear end
8 3/4 rear bbp dr. diff axles and housing, rear disc brakes
-489 case, gear ratio is still up in the air but was leaning in the 4.10 area
-Super Stock springs w/ Comp Engineering shocks, both springs are driver side (the lean would drive me nuts)
- 245/60/15 rears, might be able to fit 255's

I want to know what you think this combination would run in the 1/4, or if there's anything that would stand out as a huge problem. Yanked the engine because it was giving me fits and found a few issues, so now it's being rebuilt. Let 'er rip tater chip.
In all reality 1450s 13 20s depending on how hard you get it to hook up with that much stall and that gear it's going to blow the tires right off the car through second gear
 
New pan is a kevko with baffles... oil was a qt over full with the other engine, but with a stock style pan without baffles. I figured it might be some form of oil control rearing it's ugly head, I think it's a combo. The lifters don't like over 5500rpm, with the 4.30's it was about 6200 at the stripe. The new duster will have 3.55's in it, she wants to drive it all summer long. The plan is new lifters for the old engine as it's getting swapped and I was thinking about another kevko pan as well.
Just curious, what lifters did you end up using? Howards, Comp?
 
Just curious, what lifters did you end up using? Howards, Comp?
EDIT - I just realized you may have meant the old engine, the older engine had Magnum Stock replacement lifters, Not sure what brand.

New engine:
Comp Cams.. 8043-16..
Unfortunately I messed up big time with my oiling system and and didn't get my oil through bolt on the passenger side done correctly (Driver side looks perfect).. seized the old set of rockers (only one rocker) I had and valve kiss a piston this last weekend..
Damage was minimal so far, Piston is fine, bearings fine, rods fine, cam is fine. Bent a valve, destroyed the rockers on that side. Pretty lucky I guess. It should be back together in a week or two. Found someone in town selling a set of Harland Sharps rockers new in box for $400, already fixed the oil through bolt and waiting on the new lifter set and valve.
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