SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
How much you want for the duelly?
Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback
- Thread starter 1967 'cuda
- Start date
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SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
John, I have the same problem as you do with storage. 
rotest: The doors I was going to take apart for parts are gone. I am thinking my brother took them.rotest: Just wish he would tell me.:wack:
rotest: The doors I was going to take apart for parts are gone. I am thinking my brother took them.rotest: Just wish he would tell me.:wack:
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
$2750.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
The rash of thefts around here has gotten worse. One of my Ford buddies just lost a dozen motors this past week. Another friend had his diesel Dodge 4 wheel drive truck stolen last night. It's getting BAD.John, I have the same problem as you do with storage.
The police don't seem to do much more than file reports. The Dodge pickup was recovered already. It was caked inside and out with mud and had a ton of clearly visible hand, finger, and foot prints in the dirt on the truck. When asked by the owner if they wanted to record the prints the police said no and told him to go ahead and wash it. I realize that reality may not be the same as what you see watching CSI but if they aren't going to gather evidence what good are they?
I had bought a set of new center caps for my factory wheels on the 'Lil Red. They are ridiculously high priced. $60 each. I see that the frickin thieves stole them from the farm too.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I spent about 5 hours at the Lincoln swap meet today. Good news and bad news.
The first thing I bought was a transmission jack. It was a nice setup and the guy sold it to me for only 15 bucks. It looked like new and had both hand and foot actuated action on it. After paying him for it I asked him if I could pick it up in a few hours after I did some more looking around. I didn't want to lug it around with me and our truck was a long ways away. He said no problem.
When I came back for it later I couldn't remember who I'd bought it from but knew that it was one of two vendors. They both denied ever having sold it to me and claimed they never had one for sale. I knew one of them was lying but didn't know which one. So I ended up screwed out of the $15. It wasn't a fortune but some people are totally dicks. How could I argue when I wasn't sure which of the two it was?
I did make some good scores that made up for the first disaster. I ran across a guy that had a pair of Hoosier slicks for sale. He didn't have a price on them but just had a small sign taped to them that read "MAKE ME A RIDICULOUS OFFER". He had just retired from racing and they just had a few passes on them. They're 33X16.55X15s. I didn't really need them yet but knew that I could use them when I start working on the funnycar. I hem hawed around and figured I better just pass on them because I'm nowhere ready for them. There isn't much demand around here for tires that big so nobody had given them a serious look. As I started to walk away he asked me if I'd give him 30 bucks for the pair. I guess he REALLY didn't want to take them back home! I was shocked at the price he shot me and I didn't haggle. I figured they were worth close to $700 new.
I also bought 4 new axle straps for $30.
I bought a new replacement chrome air cleaner lid for the 'Lil red for $5. I applied the decal to it already. For some reason the camera flash makes the clear background appear hazy, but it actually looks clear.
One of the things stolen from our farm was my lifetime collection of CARTOONS magazines. I know I'll never spend the type of cash to replace them all. But I found 5 issues for $1 each. I couldn't pass them up.
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The first thing I bought was a transmission jack. It was a nice setup and the guy sold it to me for only 15 bucks. It looked like new and had both hand and foot actuated action on it. After paying him for it I asked him if I could pick it up in a few hours after I did some more looking around. I didn't want to lug it around with me and our truck was a long ways away. He said no problem.
When I came back for it later I couldn't remember who I'd bought it from but knew that it was one of two vendors. They both denied ever having sold it to me and claimed they never had one for sale. I knew one of them was lying but didn't know which one. So I ended up screwed out of the $15. It wasn't a fortune but some people are totally dicks. How could I argue when I wasn't sure which of the two it was?
I did make some good scores that made up for the first disaster. I ran across a guy that had a pair of Hoosier slicks for sale. He didn't have a price on them but just had a small sign taped to them that read "MAKE ME A RIDICULOUS OFFER". He had just retired from racing and they just had a few passes on them. They're 33X16.55X15s. I didn't really need them yet but knew that I could use them when I start working on the funnycar. I hem hawed around and figured I better just pass on them because I'm nowhere ready for them. There isn't much demand around here for tires that big so nobody had given them a serious look. As I started to walk away he asked me if I'd give him 30 bucks for the pair. I guess he REALLY didn't want to take them back home! I was shocked at the price he shot me and I didn't haggle. I figured they were worth close to $700 new.
I also bought 4 new axle straps for $30.
I bought a new replacement chrome air cleaner lid for the 'Lil red for $5. I applied the decal to it already. For some reason the camera flash makes the clear background appear hazy, but it actually looks clear.
One of the things stolen from our farm was my lifetime collection of CARTOONS magazines. I know I'll never spend the type of cash to replace them all. But I found 5 issues for $1 each. I couldn't pass them up.
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Nice score on the slicks, still get a kick, out of the early Cartoons mags...
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I blame the CARTOONS magazine for my early addiction to cars. It's sort of cool to see cartoon drawings of the cars from the 60s and 70s too. They're trying to resurrect the magazine and are looking for cartoonists. I guess Trosley is contracted with CAR CRAFT magazine now and speculation is that he wouldn't be able to draw Krass & Bernie strips in a new CARTOONS magazine if he joined. It'd be great to see young kids exposed to a comic that promotes an interest in cars again.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
One of the persons selling stuff at the Lincoln swap meet was a guy that had a ton of big block Mopar motors and transmissions. They were dated 66s, 67s, 68s, 69s, 70s, 71's, and 72s. Most were 440s with some 383s and 400s. Each one was coupled to a torqueflite. He was asking $450 for each engine/transmission combo. I asked him if it was OK to give out his contact information and he said that he wished I would because he needed to clear space and raise money. I think he might even deal down on them.
His info is:
Greg Keller
Monroe, Nebraska
402-276-2323
His info is:
Greg Keller
Monroe, Nebraska
402-276-2323
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Yesterday I managed to finish transferring the bumper guards onto the bumper from the dually and got it on the 'Lil Red. I mounted the side steps on the bed and replaced the window felt in the tracks of the door.
The bumper guards were a pain in the butt to swap. They have nuts welded to the backside of them and one of the nuts had come off. It was impossible to get a welder to the spot I needed to in order to re-weld the nut so I epoxied it in place. The contour of the bumper was also slightly different so I had to use the impact to suck the guards up against the bumper properly.
If I had taken the glass out of the doors it might have made it easier to install that window felt. As it was it took me over three hours to install them. The old ones were cracked, hard and brittle. They broke up as I pulled them out. I used about a half bottle of dish soap to lubricate the new pieces. The new ones were flat and formed a channel as you force them into the the U shaped framework. Because they want to expand back flat they don't tend to slide in the door frame very easily. In the end I have to say they did fit very well.
The bumper guards were a pain in the butt to swap. They have nuts welded to the backside of them and one of the nuts had come off. It was impossible to get a welder to the spot I needed to in order to re-weld the nut so I epoxied it in place. The contour of the bumper was also slightly different so I had to use the impact to suck the guards up against the bumper properly.
If I had taken the glass out of the doors it might have made it easier to install that window felt. As it was it took me over three hours to install them. The old ones were cracked, hard and brittle. They broke up as I pulled them out. I used about a half bottle of dish soap to lubricate the new pieces. The new ones were flat and formed a channel as you force them into the the U shaped framework. Because they want to expand back flat they don't tend to slide in the door frame very easily. In the end I have to say they did fit very well.
SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Tomorrow should be interesting. I'll be doing my first headliner installation. A buddy stopped over last night and asked me to help him with his '71 GTX. I've heard that they're a ***** to do when the glass is in but he doesn't want to pull the glass back out. For preparation we watched several Youtube videos on it last night. I have a sense of impending disaster. There will be beer.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I'm currently pulling the windshield trim off of the Duster using a pair of picks and a flexible 1" putty knife. It'd be easier but there's a lot of adhesive on the bottom piece and a lot of dirt around the perimeter. So far I've gotten all the pieces off without damage but I've got the bottom one left to do.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
The windshield is out. Everything went fairly smoothly. After running the picks back and forth beneath the bottom trim piece I managed to cut the sealant from the trim. The hooked picks worked well for popping the trim from the clips.
The seal was one of the rubber rope designs and the rope pulled out easily but was broken into 3 pieces. They butt together so it's not noticeable when they're installed. I plan on re-using it.
I lubed the heck out of everything with that dish soap as I went. I know that they don't advise using metal tools around glass but the thin metal putty knife worked well for breaking the seal between glass and rubber. I didn't pry with any metal tools though. As I ran the putty knife between the glass and the rubber (both inside and outside) I sprayed a water/soap mix into the gap.
Starting at the upper left corner I applied pressure outwards and continued to spray the soapy mixture into the widening gap. I wedged a plastic putty spreader between the glass and the rubber as it came out. Although there were cracks in the windshield before I started, none of them spread. I thought that they'd surely cause the windshield to fold in half but it came out intact.
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The seal was one of the rubber rope designs and the rope pulled out easily but was broken into 3 pieces. They butt together so it's not noticeable when they're installed. I plan on re-using it.
I lubed the heck out of everything with that dish soap as I went. I know that they don't advise using metal tools around glass but the thin metal putty knife worked well for breaking the seal between glass and rubber. I didn't pry with any metal tools though. As I ran the putty knife between the glass and the rubber (both inside and outside) I sprayed a water/soap mix into the gap.
Starting at the upper left corner I applied pressure outwards and continued to spray the soapy mixture into the widening gap. I wedged a plastic putty spreader between the glass and the rubber as it came out. Although there were cracks in the windshield before I started, none of them spread. I thought that they'd surely cause the windshield to fold in half but it came out intact.
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ssba
Well-Known Member
Nice job, you are doing better work than some pros I have met. They would have cracked it for certain getting it out.
Clean up the rubber, look in the channel closely for small chips of glass that can create a crack in the new windshield. Check for any weak or bent clips.
Clean up the rubber, look in the channel closely for small chips of glass that can create a crack in the new windshield. Check for any weak or bent clips.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Thanks ssba. Your advice has helped a lot.
CLEAN UP THE RUBBER!!! Now it may sound easy but so far that's the hardest part of this job. There was 3 colors of paint on it, rust, adhesive, and some hard white stuff that really didn't want to come off (neither did that adhesive). I've been scrubbing with lacquer thinner for 2 hours along with scraping the inner channel out with a putty knife. I should have checked the price of a new seal because cleaning this thing has been a real pain in the behind. As much as I claim to like working on cars I think that most of the jobs suck.
I was dumb enough to go without gloves. No serious cuts, but the edge of that glass is sharp as... ... GLASS! I also managed to slice myself once with the putty knife as I was cleaning the rubber. I guess I should have 911 on speed dial. The way my memory is, I'd likely forget the number if I needed it.
CLEAN UP THE RUBBER!!! Now it may sound easy but so far that's the hardest part of this job. There was 3 colors of paint on it, rust, adhesive, and some hard white stuff that really didn't want to come off (neither did that adhesive). I've been scrubbing with lacquer thinner for 2 hours along with scraping the inner channel out with a putty knife. I should have checked the price of a new seal because cleaning this thing has been a real pain in the behind. As much as I claim to like working on cars I think that most of the jobs suck.
I was dumb enough to go without gloves. No serious cuts, but the edge of that glass is sharp as... ... GLASS! I also managed to slice myself once with the putty knife as I was cleaning the rubber. I guess I should have 911 on speed dial. The way my memory is, I'd likely forget the number if I needed it.
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SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
You would probably bleed out before the 911 call actually got to someone who cared. :violent1:
ssba
Well-Known Member
When it comes time to put the new glass in you will be glad you are using the original rubber seal. They fit better than the repo's and have already been trained to their needed shape.
It will almost fall in by itself.
Try not to feel rushed or get in a hurry when working with your new glass. That is when
bad things happen. Install the clean rubber on the new glass without any soap or sealant.
Insert the nylon cord into the groove of the seal where the metal goes. Start at the bottom center and leave enough of a tail (min 6") that you can get ahold of it above the dash pad.
It is best to overlap the ends of the tails a few inches and tape them to the inside of the glass
so they arnt in the way when setting the glass and rubber assembly into the frame.
Now slick up the lip of the rubber and the rope with your soap.
Position the glass centered in the opening checking all corners for equal gaps.
Then go inside and pull on one of the tails and watch the lip fold over the steel. Pull the cords
equally from both directions. This doesn't have to be done at the same time. Once the lip is over the steel across the bottom go back out and push the windshield down if needed to recenter
In opening. It can lift some as the ropes are pulled. Then go up the sides and around the top from one side to the other. You may have to keep a grip on the opposite tail to keep it from pulling thru.
It will almost fall in by itself.
Try not to feel rushed or get in a hurry when working with your new glass. That is when
bad things happen. Install the clean rubber on the new glass without any soap or sealant.
Insert the nylon cord into the groove of the seal where the metal goes. Start at the bottom center and leave enough of a tail (min 6") that you can get ahold of it above the dash pad.
It is best to overlap the ends of the tails a few inches and tape them to the inside of the glass
so they arnt in the way when setting the glass and rubber assembly into the frame.
Now slick up the lip of the rubber and the rope with your soap.
Position the glass centered in the opening checking all corners for equal gaps.
Then go inside and pull on one of the tails and watch the lip fold over the steel. Pull the cords
equally from both directions. This doesn't have to be done at the same time. Once the lip is over the steel across the bottom go back out and push the windshield down if needed to recenter
In opening. It can lift some as the ropes are pulled. Then go up the sides and around the top from one side to the other. You may have to keep a grip on the opposite tail to keep it from pulling thru.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I decided to go ahead and freshen up the paint on the dash while the windshield was out. And I also repainted the metal opening (windshield frame). With the length of time needed to clean the old rubber seal I figured the paint would have time to dry out in the sun.
I layed the new windshield down on the lawn while I prepped some blankets to put over the hood and cowl. Then I set the glass down on the blanket. I installed the rubber seal next. It didn't want to stay on the middle of the top of the windshield because of it's concave shape.
The other day I tried to buy some 3/16" nylon rope in town but all they had was 1/8" so I made do with it. Once again, I had trouble getting it to stay in the groove on the top of the windshield because of that concave shape. The soap helped to hold it in place.
I lubed the crap out of the seal at this point. While I was at it I applied the soap to the metal framework as well. It seemed as though everything was going by the book to this point, but working by myself made it difficult to stay centered in the opening. I really could have used a second set of hands to help apply pressure from the outside while I grappled with the strings. I couldn't make any progress on either side without the glass wanting to shift to the opposite side. I jumped back and forth slowly working the seal into the frame and tried to stay centered as well as possible.
After I got the bottom started on both sides I tried to use the string to unfold the seal. When I pulled on the one side the other popped out. I tucked it back into the frame and tried to pull the other side. Once again the opposite side popped out of the frame. A second set of hands holding the windshield down probably would have prevented this. I kept tucking the seal down into the frame each time it popped out. Eventually i got it in on the sides but the top was still out.
The glass slid out of the seal on the right upper corner. I worked it back in using paint sticks and plastic putty knives. The string broke on me next. Although I didn't have the benefit of it I was still able to get the seal pushed onto the frame.
I was losing daylight fast and with it the temperature was dropping. The cooler it got, the more difficult it became to get the rubber to move. I continued until I had the windshield back in the rubber all the way around and the seal's lip seated. That's when I noticed that I couldn't get the glass/rubber to lay flat into the opening. I slapped the crap out of it and finally realized that the left bottom rubber wasn't lipped in properly on the last few inches.
I gave up for the day because I felt it may have cooled down too much to make further progress easy. Tomorrow's another day. Hopefully I'll have time to get that headliner installed in that GTX and still have time to get back to the glass.
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I layed the new windshield down on the lawn while I prepped some blankets to put over the hood and cowl. Then I set the glass down on the blanket. I installed the rubber seal next. It didn't want to stay on the middle of the top of the windshield because of it's concave shape.
The other day I tried to buy some 3/16" nylon rope in town but all they had was 1/8" so I made do with it. Once again, I had trouble getting it to stay in the groove on the top of the windshield because of that concave shape. The soap helped to hold it in place.
I lubed the crap out of the seal at this point. While I was at it I applied the soap to the metal framework as well. It seemed as though everything was going by the book to this point, but working by myself made it difficult to stay centered in the opening. I really could have used a second set of hands to help apply pressure from the outside while I grappled with the strings. I couldn't make any progress on either side without the glass wanting to shift to the opposite side. I jumped back and forth slowly working the seal into the frame and tried to stay centered as well as possible.
After I got the bottom started on both sides I tried to use the string to unfold the seal. When I pulled on the one side the other popped out. I tucked it back into the frame and tried to pull the other side. Once again the opposite side popped out of the frame. A second set of hands holding the windshield down probably would have prevented this. I kept tucking the seal down into the frame each time it popped out. Eventually i got it in on the sides but the top was still out.
The glass slid out of the seal on the right upper corner. I worked it back in using paint sticks and plastic putty knives. The string broke on me next. Although I didn't have the benefit of it I was still able to get the seal pushed onto the frame.
I was losing daylight fast and with it the temperature was dropping. The cooler it got, the more difficult it became to get the rubber to move. I continued until I had the windshield back in the rubber all the way around and the seal's lip seated. That's when I noticed that I couldn't get the glass/rubber to lay flat into the opening. I slapped the crap out of it and finally realized that the left bottom rubber wasn't lipped in properly on the last few inches.
I gave up for the day because I felt it may have cooled down too much to make further progress easy. Tomorrow's another day. Hopefully I'll have time to get that headliner installed in that GTX and still have time to get back to the glass.
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Trosley is ,one of the best parts of Car Craft. And I agree ,with the last sentence.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
The headliner installation took longer than I expected. I didn't make it back home to work on the Duster until just before dark.
The car is a 1971 GTX. My buddy that owns it has been playing around with badging on it. There are certain NHRA indexing advantages if the car is re-badged to being a Roadrunner or even a Satellite instead. His greatest advantage would be if it was a Satellite but then he'd have to find another hood because the air grabber wasn't an option on them. The purists out there should shield their eyes.
There wasn't much left of the original headliner. Naturally we saved the top bows. As we removed them we labeled each one for order and which sides were left and right. Ray is the car owner and Harvey is his dog.
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The car is a 1971 GTX. My buddy that owns it has been playing around with badging on it. There are certain NHRA indexing advantages if the car is re-badged to being a Roadrunner or even a Satellite instead. His greatest advantage would be if it was a Satellite but then he'd have to find another hood because the air grabber wasn't an option on them. The purists out there should shield their eyes.
There wasn't much left of the original headliner. Naturally we saved the top bows. As we removed them we labeled each one for order and which sides were left and right. Ray is the car owner and Harvey is his dog.
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SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
Many, many fond memories in a 71 Satellite. Damn, it was blue even.
:burnout::burnout::burnout:
:burnout::burnout::burnout:
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
We worked on the car outside. The hope was that the sunshine would help dry any chemicals we might be using. There was very little insulation left above the old headliner. We were lucky because there wasn't any mouse turds there either.
This particular headliner has little metal clips that hold the sides to the outer edge of the roof. Once they were removed we popped the bows out of the holes they were seated in on the sides. There are 'teeth' in the ceiling along the front and back that grip the headliner. There are also some that are behind the sail panels. It took just a few minutes to remove the old headliner. Ray had already removed the trim pieces and had them re-painted.
Yesterday Ray layed the new headliner out in the sun hoping that the wrinkles would flatten out. It was from Legendary Interiors. Today it was a bit breezy so we kept in inside his garage laying on cardboard.
The rollbar didn't make it impossible to change headliners but it didn't make it any easier either. The hardest thing was trying to crawl into the back without banging your head.
Some of the bows had surface rust on them. It came off easily with some steel wool. We used a putty knife to remove any of the old insulation that was still on the ceiling. Ray did not want to sand the ceiling clean. Instead he just wanted it scraped down and shot with a light coat of a rust converting paint. If it was my car I'd probably made it as shiny as possible and then applied some POR-15. I still find it hard to believe that they never coated that bare steel from the factory. We also went ahead and painted the rollbar prior to installation of the headliner. We measured and marked the center of the roof in front and back. The headliner already had a center line on it from Legendary. We measured it to make sure it was marked correctly. The socket for the dome light pops out easily with a little pressure with a pair of pliers.
With the new headliner laying upside down we began installing the bows. First we took each one and centered it out. The sewn in sleeves that the bows slide into need to be cut on each side because they are longer than the bows. There needs to be a few inches of bow sticking out on each side.
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This particular headliner has little metal clips that hold the sides to the outer edge of the roof. Once they were removed we popped the bows out of the holes they were seated in on the sides. There are 'teeth' in the ceiling along the front and back that grip the headliner. There are also some that are behind the sail panels. It took just a few minutes to remove the old headliner. Ray had already removed the trim pieces and had them re-painted.
Yesterday Ray layed the new headliner out in the sun hoping that the wrinkles would flatten out. It was from Legendary Interiors. Today it was a bit breezy so we kept in inside his garage laying on cardboard.
The rollbar didn't make it impossible to change headliners but it didn't make it any easier either. The hardest thing was trying to crawl into the back without banging your head.
Some of the bows had surface rust on them. It came off easily with some steel wool. We used a putty knife to remove any of the old insulation that was still on the ceiling. Ray did not want to sand the ceiling clean. Instead he just wanted it scraped down and shot with a light coat of a rust converting paint. If it was my car I'd probably made it as shiny as possible and then applied some POR-15. I still find it hard to believe that they never coated that bare steel from the factory. We also went ahead and painted the rollbar prior to installation of the headliner. We measured and marked the center of the roof in front and back. The headliner already had a center line on it from Legendary. We measured it to make sure it was marked correctly. The socket for the dome light pops out easily with a little pressure with a pair of pliers.
With the new headliner laying upside down we began installing the bows. First we took each one and centered it out. The sewn in sleeves that the bows slide into need to be cut on each side because they are longer than the bows. There needs to be a few inches of bow sticking out on each side.
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SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
I have been seeing in different build posts about guys using POR-15 on their cars. That stuff is supposed to be used with a certain amount of rust to make it work properly. If you clean the metal shiney, it won't stick. Ask me how I know.:violent1: The surface has to be somewhat rough and have some rust to work. I have tried 2-3 times to clean the metal, then use por-15 to find out a few years later it chips right off. Ever since those cars, I just use a rust convertor then paint. Cheaper.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
We put the back bow in place first. I don't know if other Mopars are made the same way, but there were 3 holes on each side for each bow. We had marked the original hole locations to make certain that it would have the same tension as these original bows had originally. We're not certain if it made any difference.
The back 2 bows were located behind the rollbar. Ray crawled into the back while Doug (another friend) and I were in front.
We attached the rest of the bows as we worked towards the front. When we came to the dome light location we poked a small hole for the wires to pull through.
I didn't photograph them but there are 2 wire hooks that establish the location of the rear bow. After we had all of our bows snapped back into their corresponding holes we attached the 2 wire hooks that would hold the back bow so we could tug forward on the headliner.
View attachment IMG_4766.jpg
View attachment IMG_4767.jpg
View attachment IMG_4763.jpg
View attachment IMG_4765.jpg
View attachment IMG_4762.jpg
View attachment IMG_4764.jpg
View attachment IMG_4768.jpg
View attachment IMG_4769.jpg
View attachment IMG_4770.jpg
The back 2 bows were located behind the rollbar. Ray crawled into the back while Doug (another friend) and I were in front.
We attached the rest of the bows as we worked towards the front. When we came to the dome light location we poked a small hole for the wires to pull through.
I didn't photograph them but there are 2 wire hooks that establish the location of the rear bow. After we had all of our bows snapped back into their corresponding holes we attached the 2 wire hooks that would hold the back bow so we could tug forward on the headliner.
View attachment IMG_4766.jpg
View attachment IMG_4767.jpg
View attachment IMG_4763.jpg
View attachment IMG_4765.jpg
View attachment IMG_4762.jpg
View attachment IMG_4764.jpg
View attachment IMG_4768.jpg
View attachment IMG_4769.jpg
View attachment IMG_4770.jpg
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I don't know. I cleaned the crap out of our Charger before applying it and it stuck like glue. The only places we had adhesion problems were where we hadn't gotten the prep work right. In those places it wanted to peel. As I recall we solved our adhesion problems by using scouring pads when we worked with their 2 prep chemicals.
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