It will be similar vacuum to a XE262-268H which has about the same tune up on it.
Just my sperience with it.
Just my sperience with it.
What installed centerline does Ken recommend with that cam?I've done a bit of work on the engine. I'm getting about 12 1/2" at 20 degrees initial advance at 750 rpm. I sent an email to Ken at Oregon Cam and told him what I was getting and asked him what he thought I should expect with this cam. He said he wasn't surprised with the numbers.
I told him it was on 110.5 icl and he said that is where he would put it unless compression was low.What installed centerline does Ken recommend with that cam?
And that's the missing piece. But hey, if you're happy with it, screw it.I told him it was on 110.5 icl and he said that is where he would put it unless compression was low.
He said he might advance it too 108 deg with low mechanical compression....didn't define what low comp was. I was happy to get an opinion from him.Hard to wind a cam with that 114 LSA forward a bunch and keep the exhaust lobe where it doesn't get of bounds on an NA engine.
110 ICL is about the max IMO with that cam.
Low cylinder pressure is what he means. That's why the suggestion for the compression test.He said he might advance it too 108 deg with low mechanical compression....didn't define what low comp was. I was happy to get an opinion from him.
The engine is very responsive down low. All I want is a well tuned cruiser which is why it is nearly stock. I haven't got into WOT tuning but the carb tuning is getting close last time that I had it out with the O2 meter. Winter is upon us with freezing temps at night and daytime highs under 50F.
I meant he did not specify what calculated pressure is considered to be low. Mine is not low as its 9.75:1Low cylinder pressure is what he means. That's why the suggestion for the compression test.
You're confusing compression ratio with cylinder pressure. The two are totally different. Cylinder pressure is what the engine physically produces in a give configuration, fully assembled. Compression ratio is the comparison of the cylinder volume from bottom dead center to top dead center. You've already said your cylinder pressure on one measured cylinder was 150. That's pretty low for that camshaft. I can't beat it into your head enough how important this is IF you want to tune this engine. But, like I said, if you're happy with it, don't worry about it.I meant he did not specify what calculated pressure is considered to be low. Mine is not low as its 9.75:1
Thanks but comparisons with other cams don't really tell me anything. Most of the specs like LSA, overlap and valve timing are different. Also I was measuring at 700 rpm. What initial timing were you running?My 268H has 13.5 @850 rpm
11 inches is way low imo
The problem is, there are so FEW original 340 4 speed engines out there. You are going to be VERY lucky if someone comes forward with the information you need. I sure wish you luck, though.Thanks but comparisons with other cams don't really tell me anything. Most of the specs like LSA, overlap and valve timing are different. Also I was measuring at 700 rpm. What initial timing were you running?
I am well aware of the differences. Ken used the terminology calculated compression which is why I was referring to it. He knows the valve timing.You're confusing compression ratio with cylinder pressure. The two are totally different. Cylinder pressure is what the engine physically produces in a give configuration, fully assembled. Compression ratio is the comparison of the cylinder volume from bottom dead center to top dead center. You've already said your cylinder pressure on one measured cylinder was 150. That's pretty low for that camshaft. I can't beat it into your head enough how important this is IF you want to tune this engine. But, like I said, if you're happy with it, don't worry about it.
Thanks. Its not that important though. I was just curious. Lots of repro cams like this were sold so you think someone here would be running one.The problem is, there are so FEW original 340 4 speed engines out there. You are going to be VERY lucky if someone comes forward with the information you need. I sure wish you luck, though.
This is from an old thread about the cam in discussion. The intake closing is 10* later than the Comp 268H bleeding cylinder pressure (dynamic compression) off...Low cylinder pressure is what he means. That's why the suggestion for the compression test.
| 268 |
| 268 |
| 218 |
| 218 |
| 0.454 |
| 0.454 |
| 0.302 |
| 0.302 |
| 110 |
| 106 |
| 0.006 |
| 20 |
| 28 |
| 68 |
| 60 Intake closing event timing. |
The service manual durations are based on the ramp geometry in engineering drawings, not the SAE or other common standards. You can do a search for @Wyrmrider and maybe a key word like 'drawings'.Per the 68 Plymouth service manual, the factory specs are:
276/284 dur, .444"/.453" lift
Int op = 26° BTC
Int cl = 70° ABC
Exh op = 78° BBC
Exh cl = 26° ATC
FWIW Here's what's in the FSM's for the 340 cams. But Wyrmrider and others have pointed out these are not SAE numbers.
the '68 Plymouth FSM timing events incorrectly applied as if they were .006 events.
That was a two way street. That guy has an attitude. Everything you say is wrong and all of what he says is right. That's what got him heckled. I for one will WELCOME any possibility for more Mopar parts. But when someone comes in here like his poop don't stink and nobody else is right about anything, that's what he's gonna get.Oregon's '68 4-speed cam may be about as close as can be easily purchased.
There was someone who was going to reproduce it more precisely if there were enough participants but the ignorant hecklers drove him off.![]()
To add to that, there is nothing wrong with telling someone the product is already available so they don't make an investment in something that isn't going to sell in any significant volume.That was a two way street. That guy has an attitude. Everything you say is wrong and all of what he says is right. That's what got him heckled. I for one will WELCOME any possibility for more Mopar parts. But when someone comes in here like his poop don't stink and nobody else is right about anything, that's what he's gonna get.
The product is not available. There is something close, but thats not the same.To add to that, there is nothing wrong with telling someone the product is already available so they don't make an investment in something that isn't going to sell in any significant volume.
I agree. If I remember right, the cam Oregon ended up with was ONE DEGREE different "somewhere" than the factory four speed cam. And that guy went off on that like it was ten miles off. I'm glad Oregon has it on file, because they can grind it on whatever LSA you want at no extra charge. If there's enough meat on the core to go to a 108 LSA, that's be a neat little street cam. It was pretty good just like it was.To add to that, there is nothing wrong with telling someone the product is already available so they don't make an investment in something that isn't going to sell in any significant volume.
That's thing. We don't really know because we don't have a full cam profile. Oregon knows (and its been posted) where it differs at one of the key points. So where it cracks open and how the cams are shaped is one the interesting little mysteries.the cam Oregon ended up with was ONE DEGREE different "somewhere" than the factory four speed cam.
@krazykuda Karl knows and has posted it several times. I just cannot remember. No surprise there.That's thing. We don't really know because we don't have a full cam profile. Oregon knows (and its been posted) where it differs at one of the key points. So where it cracks open and how the cams are shaped is one the interesting little mysteries.
Anyway my point was that the shop manual durations not advertised durations for .006" lift. And using them that way results in a different cam
Has anyone ever approached Schneider to see if he can replicate the OEM grind from his patterns?That's thing. We don't really know because we don't have a full cam profile. Oregon knows (and its been posted) where it differs at one of the key points. So where it cracks open and how the cams are shaped is one the interesting little mysteries.
Anyway my point was that the shop manual durations not advertised durations for .006" lift. And using them that way results in a different cam
It's tough to measure whether any of them are correct, because Chrysler was so proprietary with their measurements. We all know MP used the .850 for figuring duration at .050", instead of the industry standard of .750. But almost without fail, when you use that .850 to verify, it still doesn't math out. Same with their stock cams. The only real way to figure it is to map it on a cam machine or degree wheel.The product is not available. There is something close, but thats not the same.
It may be good enough for some, but others were interested in the original - surviving examples of which is hard enough.
It's like saying a Tisas 1911A1 is the same as an US purchased Colt or Rem Rand. its close and reasonably priced, but its not the same.
Its a free world. If someone wants to spend double for the supposed 1 degree that's fine. The point is that informing other members that the cam is already available (lots of threads on it) is fine too.The product is not available. There is something close, but thats not the same.
It may be good enough for some, but others were interested in the original - surviving examples of which is hard enough.
It's like saying a Tisas 1911A1 is the same as an US purchased Colt or Rem Rand. its close and reasonably priced, but its not the same.