Anyone Got A Combo Like This

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overrever

Chris
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I'm curious to know if anyone has a combo close to the power plant I have & what can I expect from it HP/torque & 1/4 mile wise.
The car is a 68 dart aproximatly 3250 lbs with driver.
727, 3500 stall, 4.56 gear w/ 29.5x13.50 Quick Time Pro slicks.
499 ci, 3.750x4.150, w/6.763 rod length
Crowe racing 950 dp carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Edelbrock Performer RPM (88cc heads:10.5-1 w/my pistons) w/new Comp springs
Compcam 283R-8 .660 Lift In & Ex,
Dur 283 In 291 Ex
Dur @ .50 255 In 263 Ex
intake centerline 108
3500/6500 RPM range.
Compcams roller lifters /rockers
Smith Bro Push Rods
SRP flat top pistons # 213459 (10.5-1 w/my 88 cc heads), 12.5-1 w/72cc heads
RPM International crank 4.150 stroke nitride 4130 crankshaft
RPM International H Beam Pro Series Rods 6.763
2" CPPA Under Chassis Headers, w/2"x3-1/2" Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors,
X-Pipe, 3 1/2" Ex w/ Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers

I hope that I'm not too disappointed w/what I have, heres a photo of the engine before it was taken apart.

13568_1190633558303_1002288934_30505848_2009692_n.jpg
 
Are the heads ported?
What kind of times are you looking for?
 
The heads are as cast factory Performer RPM Edelbocks with Comp springs. I've been told by a few people that it would make 650 hp. The guys who built the thing the first go around (Barrett Racing Engines) were thinking that It would make around 700hp with ported & polished 452's milled .50 w/ 2.19 in 1.81 ex. I'm thinking, hoping that it will make 600hp with the Edelbrocks.
It may be a pipe dream, but I'd like to be able to get into 10.50 range.:dontknow:
 
Yeah, I've heard that the as cast Performer Edelbrocks wont support life to a 500ci engine. I remember seeing a flow chart on as cast performer RPM's & they were rated all the way up to 318 cfm @.700 lift. I think it was Hughes Engine.
I fugure w/ my cam they will flow around 300 cfm. I wish I could afford to have someone do some porting on them right now but at the moment that will have to wait.
 
Sounds like a killer combo... I would have the heads gone through and ported though... mid tens are all u bro...

My small block R1 stroked to 416 with W9 ported heads made 684hp and 691tq on a engine dyno... I am hoping to be in the high 9s on motor if all the stars align..lol
 
If it hooks, you should be at 10.50 range. maybe faster.
 
I think you should be able to get into the high tens...I'm not a BB guy, but I think that's resonable. If it does make 600 hp you would be in the low tens.

FWIW, I would look into getting another converter (3500 sounds too tight).
 
Not to disappoint but in stock form RPM heads wont make that kind of steam, the compression is a little low, and I don't believe the intake will make the number. The Victors would. But not RPMs. If I have to estimate using what you have I'd put a realistic 530hp and 550tq. RPMs might get as good as 280-290 out of the box depending on core shift and your shops valve job. If they were not corrected before assembly, figure the 280 number. That should be enough to reach the 10s. But I dont think 10.50s as designed will be doable.
If it's still in process... This is what I'd change:
Have the block square decked to get the pistons .005 proud of the deck.
Have the heads milled .040 and the intake side cut to match to reduce the chamber to 80ccs. Those two changes up the static compression to 11.6.
Have the heads at least stage 2 ported. It's pretty easy to get them to the 300-310cfm range with this.
Replace the intake with either the 440-I4-2D 4150/std port opening dual plane or the Victor 440 intake.
I think in terms of power, the Victor will make more but the dual plane will fit under the hood better (still tall, but might fit with smaller scoop) Thos changes should get you to 600hp.
 
Mid 10's no worries, its all in the tuning as well...

As always, let us know how you go!
 
Not to disappoint but in stock form RPM heads wont make that kind of steam, the compression is a little low, and I don't believe the intake will make the number. The Victors would. But not RPMs. If I have to estimate using what you have I'd put a realistic 530hp and 550tq. RPMs might get as good as 280-290 out of the box depending on core shift and your shops valve job. If they were not corrected before assembly, figure the 280 number. That should be enough to reach the 10s. But I dont think 10.50s as designed will be doable.
If it's still in process... This is what I'd change:
Have the block square decked to get the pistons .005 proud of the deck.
Have the heads milled .040 and the intake side cut to match to reduce the chamber to 80ccs. Those two changes up the static compression to 11.6.
Have the heads at least stage 2 ported. It's pretty easy to get them to the 300-310cfm range with this.
Replace the intake with either the 440-I4-2D 4150/std port opening dual plane or the Victor 440 intake.
I think in terms of power, the Victor will make more but the dual plane will fit under the hood better (still tall, but might fit with smaller scoop) Thos changes should get you to 600hp.

I ran 10.50 at 127.8 and 6.60 at 102.6 in the 1/4 with a out of the box 84 cc edelbrock heads and around 11.1 compression in a 3500 pound 65 plymouth.

here is a video of my old car. Thanks Mopar65

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=40067&highlight=65+plymouth+video
 
Sounds like a killer combo... I would have the heads gone through and ported though... mid tens are all u bro...

My small block R1 stroked to 416 with W9 ported heads made 684hp and 691tq on a engine dyno... I am hoping to be in the high 9s on motor if all the stars align..lol

A little porting will have to wait until I make alot of runs & it's time to freshen it up. I do plan on seeing a bunch of street miles.

I was doing the W2 small block Mopar stroker thing, then the stars alined different for me one day & I got this big block.
684 hp/691tq!!! Thats a Freakin BADAZZ small block Mopar!!!!!

There is a video on youtube listed under (Stick Shift Dart 5 speed). It is awesome small block Mopar music!!! Check it out. For some reason I cant open/post up the video.
What do you have R1 stuffed in?
Your black 67/68 is one sweet looking car.
I cant wait to see it with the tires tucked.
I have plans to paint my other 68, black w/ white stripes.

When you get your beast to the track:
May the stars be alined just right & shine on you brightly my brother!!!:wave:
 
I would raise the compression but race fuel cost mega dollars per gallon & I plan on adding up some street miles, So pump gas with a booster is what she will be drinking.
He*l, if it wont do it on the motor I can always put it on drugs!!

nitrous.gif
 
I ran 10.8s @ 123-124 in a 3100 lb. duster (with me), had a very mild iron headed 451 low deck, that was with very sad 60ft. times as well (1.61-1.62), the car had high 10.6s in it, the FWHP on this build was around 460-480, with your build & weight, if you get the 60fts. where they should be, very low 10s should be easy, if not high 9s, i'm being concervative at that #, what ever you do at this point, "MAKE SURE" the suspension is dialed in!! This will make or break your times, get the car too leave & hook, then the rest is in the bag, at your HP & weight, you should be in the 1.3s on the 60ft., even if its around 1.36-1.38 range on the low scale, i ran a best 60ft. of 1.51 & i still needed suspension work bad, i should have easily been in the 1.48 range, all i will say is after the engine is tuned in, suspension, suspension, suspension!!!!!!!!

I will add, get it all dialed in, THEN spray it if you want, that should solidly put you in the 5s 1/8 mile with wheels high.
 
I ran 10.8s @ 123-124 in a 3100 lb. duster (with me), had a very mild iron headed 451 low deck, that was with very sad 60ft. times as well (1.61-1.62), the car had high 10.6s in it, the FWHP on this build was around 460-480, with your build & weight, if you get the 60fts. where they should be, very low 10s should be easy, if not high 9s, i'm being concervative at that #, what ever you do at this point, "MAKE SURE" the suspension is dialed in!! This will make or break your times, get the car too leave & hook, then the rest is in the bag, at your HP & weight, you should be in the 1.3s on the 60ft., even if its around 1.36-1.38 range on the low scale, i ran a best 60ft. of 1.51 & i still needed suspension work bad, i should have easily been in the 1.48 range, all i will say is after the engine is tuned in, suspension, suspension, suspension!!!!!!!!

I will add, get it all dialed in, THEN spray it if you want, that should solidly put you in the 5s 1/8 mile with wheels high.

Yes speaking of suspension I'm trying w/ some exsperienced help, to put a narrowed rear, ladder bar, coil over in the car. As for getting it right wish me luck.
 
Ladder bars will make it easier to hook up when done and adjusted properly.

There are a bunch of cars with 520-550 hp running 10.50-10.60's at about the same weight. They aren't stock elim or super stock cars either, just well set up bracket cars. Converter might need to be a bit looser, but, you'll have some strong torque numbers down low to pull through it, so it may take a tenth or so off the ultimate numbers.

Here's a tutorial from Alston Chassisworks on ladder bar installs. Maybe it will help with those headaches... :toothy10:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/Stories/HowCAC-001_WEB.pdf

Dominic over at moparts has a 70 dart, caltracs, 470/home ported ede, roller cam and a better intake/carb, runs high 9's with a bit more in it.
 
Crackedback, Thanks for the tutorial from Alston Chassis works. I will print it out and put it in the garage.
 
I may be wrong, but after looking at the gear & tire size, seeing its a 499 stroker, you might be better off with a 4.30 gear with the 29.5' tire.
 
i agree with JoeDust451 i think a 4.30 may be a better choice evan a 4.10 wouldnt kill it too bad, youll be making plenty of torque and with your gear youll be fighting a traction problem unless your planning to run 1/8th mile?
 
I may be wrong, but after looking at the gear & tire size, seeing its a 499 stroker, you might be better off with a 4.30 gear with the 29.5' tire.

i agree with JoeDust451 i think a 4.30 may be a better choice evan a 4.10 wouldnt kill it too bad, youll be making plenty of torque and with your gear youll be fighting a traction problem unless your planning to run 1/8th mile?

Thanks for the heads up on the gear Men. I was wondering if the gear was a little to steep for the 499. I bought the rear when I was doing A W2 small block, so the gears would have been good in that application.
If there a chance that the 499 would put this car in the mid 10 sec range w/a 4.10 gear I would do that but I suppose that a 4.30 is probably the one to do it with, but I like the idea of the 4.10s for the street use.
The local track runs the usual test & tune on Friday night w/ two Pro Street class's 10.50 & 12.00 index running the full 1/4.
On Saturday they run 1/8 mile brackets
 
The compression ratio I stated is still in the realm of pump fuel. I hate running race gas. I'll still be surprised if it can be done with what you've listed but I've been wrong before.
 
The compression ratio I stated is still in the realm of pump fuel. I hate running race gas. I'll still be surprised if it can be done with what you've listed but I've been wrong before.

Hey moper I'm all ears & it's all good!! I need the opinions of others. I'm just on a very tight budget with the car so I kinda have to run what I have at the moment.
I do have a bud that has a 71 Demon w/ a .30 440, 11.-1, .590 roller, as cast Edelbrock Perfromers, & a Victor Intake, turning 10.65 in the 1/4, so I know that the heads will make something happen. I have about 50 more cubes w/ my engine and I'm just wondering what to expect from what I have. I have heard that the Performers wont breath life into a 500ci engine though. Thanks for the info it is very much appreciated
 
I'll give it a 10.2 @ 128-130 on a decent run.

Hey joeDust451, 10.2 @ 130 sounds great. Are thinking this w/ the 4.30 gears? Any Ideas on the 4.10 gear as far as ET, MPH ?
I got my hands on a Hughes 4800 converter now, so that should help the 60ft.
 
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