nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
So the Holley Projection 4DI system I have sitting in my garage is pretty much worthless???
Certainly not worthless. They still command >$400 on ebay. As 273 says, the last 4Di system added sensors for Pman and IAT, so should work much better on a daily driver. Indeed, I suspect that the last Pro-jection 4Di is essentially the same as the current Avenger, and the later just added a small user-interface box so you don't need a laptop to tune it.So the Holley Projection 4DI system I have sitting in my garage is pretty much worthless???
I worry about the calibration of the wideband O2 sensors, especially the 2 cheap setups I got. I welded in two O2 bungs in my Dart so I can also use a simple narrow-band sensor with lean/rich indicator. I will use that to verify/adjust the calibration of the wideband signal. A narrow-band sensor acts as a simple digital switch, so should be very accurate where it switches. I also got a cheap A/D box so I can log both on my laptop as I drive to analyze later. All my effort would be a waste if I crash from looking at gages when I should be watching the road. All just dreaming for now. I need to finish painting and re-install my interior first.Just received the Innovate O2 wideband kit
Fab your own Serial Cable:
Pulling up this old thread, since still the main discussion of Holley Commander 950. From other threads, looks like OP 67Dart273 upgraded to the later Holley HP ECU. Finally have time to fool with my Commander 950 stuff. One came w/o the serial cable, now "not avail" on Holley's site, so I had to make my own. I pinned out the Holley cable I have. The mating round plastic 4-pin connector is AMP PN 206060-1 (CPC Series 1, Size 11). Insure you also buy female pins and the cable clamp. If procuring both sides, you could use any convenient 3 or 4-pin connector (even USB). Use a DB9 female molded cable long enough to reach your PC and cut the other end off to install the AMP connector above. Below is the pinout to make your own cable (use commas to align columns):
ECU pin, Function, Round_male, Round_female, DB9 (PC end), PC function
A12, Serial Gnd, 1, 1, 5, GND
A9, TxD, 2, 2, 2, Rx_Out
A8, RxD, 3, 3, 3, Tx_In
A2, ModA, 4, none,,
A3, ModB, 4, none,,
A2 & A3 must be connected together, even though they don't continue on the serial cable. You can do that anywhere. Holley simply used pin 4 as a manufacturing convenience.
You need to plug into an RS-232 serial port on an old PC, or use a USB-serial adapter (DB9 connector). You must assign your PC's serial port to the same com# which the Holley ECU is using. When you can communicate, you will see a version# for the ECU in the About box of the Holley PC program. You won't know which com# the ECU was left in, so might need to try com1 thru com4. Change on the PC side in Device Manager. Right-click adapter (under ports) - Properties - Advanced and should get a box to set com#. Varies with adapters and your Windows version. I used a Win Vista laptop. I'll later try on a Win10 PC.