Anyone mount battery UNDER, or flush in trunk?

-

Johnny Mac

www.blueprintengines.com
FABO Vendor
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
4,340
Reaction score
4,837
Location
OHIO
I've done some digging, and coming up short on good ideas or pictures.

Anyone ever do a flush mount battery relocation in the trunk that still allows access from the top side?

Im trying to preserve as much trunk space as possible. So far all i can come up with in my head is to weld up a steel battery box, drop it through the floor, brace to frame rail. And fab up a trap door.

Thoughts?

Im already mounting fuel cell under the trunk to save the trunk space, but really wanting to keep trunk 100% usable.

Thanks!!
 
Sounds possible. Maybe frame the hole with angle iron. Flat on top with the flange going in to help reinforce?
 
Thinking toss one of these on the top.

Screenshot_20200308-060353_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
I've done some digging, and coming up short on good ideas or pictures.

Anyone ever do a flush mount battery relocation in the trunk that still allows access from the top side?

Im trying to preserve as much trunk space as possible. So far all i can come up with in my head is to weld up a steel battery box, drop it through the floor, brace to frame rail. And fab up a trap door.

Thoughts?

Im already mounting fuel cell under the trunk to save the trunk space, but really wanting to keep trunk 100% usable.

Thanks!!
I had a don hardy/east texas racecars , vega , that had dual battery boxes , alum., behind both tubs , dzus acces panels , flush w/ the alum. trunk floor -------------
 
Check NHRA and IHRA rules to see if the they have anything against it.
Sealed box, or firewall between driver, vented to outside. Box cannot be what physically mounts battery in car (still needs a hold down)
 
I had a don hardy/east texas racecars , vega , that had dual battery boxes , alum., behind both tubs , dzus acces panels , flush w/ the alum. trunk floor -------------
Sounds like what im picturing, thanks.
 
sounds like you havent started the fuel cell yet?
are you buying or building one?

if you're building it you could "notch" the fuel cell to allow room for the battery and incorporate the battery compartment in the fuel cell support
of you're buying one it would be a little harder, but i would try to mount the battery behind the fuel cell, on the same frame
 
sounds like you havent started the fuel cell yet?
are you buying or building one?

if you're building it you could "notch" the fuel cell to allow room for the battery and incorporate the battery compartment in the fuel cell support
of you're buying one it would be a little harder, but i would try to mount the battery behind the fuel cell, on the same frame

I have an aluminum cell already, so using that. And you are correct, needs mounted in a cage per NHRA. I was doing the same trap door idea for accessing the fuel cap. I like your idea of incorporating the two!!!!
 
You have limited real estate under the trunk floor. Even more so if you’re running exhaust pipes. I think the best area for you to do something truck will be at the hump that goes over the axle. And even that is limited but should be OK.
 
I have a 68 Barracuda; with a voluminous interior, after I took the backseat out.
One day, long ago, I was contemplating to install one of those dry-cell technology, sealed and non-vented, mount in any orientation,dual-terminal batteries; under the passenger seat. I had already raised the non-Mopar passenger bucket for my shorter wife who doesn't like to be looked down on, so there was lot's of room.
But it was not to be; the stub-frame and crossmember are right there.
A few years later, I had removed the rear seat and discovered that the fold-down beast weighed 72 pounds, same as my dual 3" TTIs, so it was never going back in. So now, I thought; hey, there's a lot of unused real estate back there...But by now the battery was in the trunk, so I stopped thinking about it.
Happy Real-Estate hunting...
 
I have a 68 Barracuda; with a voluminous interior, after I took the backseat out.
One day, long ago, I was contemplating to install one of those dry-cell technology, sealed and non-vented, mount in any orientation,dual-terminal batteries; under the passenger seat. I had already raised the non-Mopar passenger bucket for my shorter wife who doesn't like to be looked down on, so there was lot's of room.
But it was not to be; the stub-frame and crossmember are right there.
A few years later, I had removed the rear seat and discovered that the fold-down beast weighed 72 pounds, same as my dual 3" TTIs, so it was never going back in. So now, I thought; hey, there's a lot of unused real estate back there...But by now the battery was in the trunk, so I stopped thinking about it.
Happy Real-Estate hunting...
B body ;) maybe I'll get lucky
 
I've done some digging, and coming up short on good ideas or pictures.

Anyone ever do a flush mount battery relocation in the trunk that still allows access from the top side?

Im trying to preserve as much trunk space as possible. So far all i can come up with in my head is to weld up a steel battery box, drop it through the floor, brace to frame rail. And fab up a trap door.

Thoughts?

Im already mounting fuel cell under the trunk to save the trunk space, but really wanting to keep trunk 100% usable.

Thanks!!

If you ever intend on taking that car to the track, get a present year NHRA rule book. It will tell you exactly how to mount a remote battery so that you won't get tech'ed right back on the trailer.
 
If you ever intend on taking that car to the track, get a present year NHRA rule book. It will tell you exactly how to mount a remote battery so that you won't get tech'ed right back on the trailer.
I bracket race the swinger every weekend that I'm not on the road. Maybe I can get the wife in this thing.
 
It'll handle better. Wider and longer track for the rubber on the road. Bigger brakes. Once you start stripping it for "Race Duty" it will lighten up really good, but it is not to bad in strett trim ether. My Magnum has a listed weight of (IIRC) 3675. I dumpped a good 10 lbs. of electrical wire and started in on the engine iron parts for aluminum. I know you did fiberglass for the front bumper, but for those who do not have the stuff for fiberglass work... Take apart the front bumper and cut up the big steel beam behind the chrome bumper. HUGE weight savings! Same for the rear. You can drop a lot of weght out of these rides!
 
I bracket race the swinger every weekend that I'm not on the road. Maybe I can get the wife in this thing.

Well there you go. You probably have a rule book then. It will tell you in there "where" to put the battery in relation to things like bulkheads, frame rails and that type thing.
 
Last edited:
It'll handle better. Wider and longer track for the rubber on the road. Bigger brakes. Once you start stripping it for "Race Duty" it will lighten up really good, but it is not to bad in strett trim ether. My Magnum has a listed weight of (IIRC) 3675. I dumpped a good 10 lbs. of electrical wire and started in on the engine iron parts for aluminum. I know you did fiberglass for the front bumper, but for those who do not have the stuff for fiberglass work... Take apart the front bumper and cut up the big steel beam behind the chrome bumper. HUGE weight savings! Same for the rear. You can drop a lot of weght out of these rides!
Yeah that front bumper with the brackets was damn near 100. I do plan on gutting the rear and just using the shell with custom brackets. No inner structure. Even the AC stuff on this car is ridiculous. The nose is 6 inches higher than it was when I started.
I haven't adjusted the bars or anything. That's all weight
 
LOL! Oh yes! Heavy front bumper. I’m doing the same stuff right now. All the under hood A/C stuff is gone. Next is under the dash. I’m not sure how I’m going to go about it just yet since I never had the dash apart on these cars. I’d like heat/defrost for the road.

I forget the guys screen name on FBBO that did the manual steering conversion but that would be a guy to hit up and see what he has done thus far.

Im not going NUTZ on mine since it will be in the street more than the track. I was about to get to the rear end spring relocation and I ran into an issue having a bit to much fun..... so this will set me back about 2K to properly do it to the next level I was going to get to.
Sigh - another years delay.... back to my A body beater...

A0523DDD-E74E-4B69-97AE-A71AD451586D.jpeg
 
LOL! Oh yes! Heavy front bumper. I’m doing the same stuff right now. All the under hood A/C stuff is gone. Next is under the dash. I’m not sure how I’m going to go about it just yet since I never had the dash apart on these cars. I’d like heat/defrost for the road. Yikes, 727 or 904 ?

I forget the guys screen name on FBBO that did the manual steering conversion but that would be a guy to hit up and see what he has done thus far.

Im not going NUTZ on mine since it will be in the street more than the track. I was about to get to the rear end spring relocation and I ran into an issue having a bit to much fun..... so this will set me back about 2K to properly do it to the next level I was going to get to.
Sigh - another years delay.... back to my A body beater...

View attachment 1715484023

Yikes that a 727 or 904? You already have a good converter?
 
Last edited:
Yikes that a 727 or 904? You already have a good concerter?

@PST for the steering box and spring relocation for sure. Can't beat it. Their relocation kit was less $ than some others wanted for just bushings and shackles.
 
‘00 - 5.9, all stock except the following bolt on parts.

Edelbrock RPM intake, 750 carb, Lokar cables, OE trap door air cleaner, Hooker Super Comps & 1-3/4 - 2-1/2 true duals, long case Dynomax mufflers, older distributor w/MP Chrome box ignition, B&M flexplate for the neutral balance converter @ 2500 stall. FWIW, the rear is a 9-1/4 sure grip equipped w/3.55’s on 245/60/15’s on all 4 corners.
AutoZone aluminum radiator.
 
-
Back
Top