Are aluminum heads worth it?

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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So after saving up money and buying another car and saving up money again I finally have enough to get some edlebrock rpm heads! My question is if it's really worth it? The heads on it now are bone stock j heads I believe and after I looked at prices to get them worked it seems like I may as well go with the aluminum heads. I'm keeping it at a stock stroke but I'm dougg forged rods and pistons and intent to take it too the track around 10 times a year. What are your thoughts? 360 btw
 
Id like to be down to the low 13s high twelves.

360
Holley 750dp
Rpm air gap
Mp .484 cam
Eddie heads
Kb 107 fordged
Fordged rods

Maybe 350-375 hp?
 
from what i have heard and read. the eddy heads out of the box dont flow the greatest. they will still out flow your stock casting jhead. the added bonus is that your dropping approx. 45lbs off the nose of the car. the alum dissipates heat better and it is my belief that they help with engine cooling. the eddy heads leave alot more room to grow. fast is never fast enough. your gonna get the car into the 12's then next year your gonna want to go 11s. its the nature of the beast.

if you do go with the eddys. spend the few bucks and have them checked out by a local shop that you trust before install.
 
This car is not going faster then 12s. I had it since I was 15 and want to be able to cruise in it. Next winter I'll be in the market for another a body to cut up. Heads are going with the block to get checked out.
 
doogievlg said:
Id like to be down to the low 13s high twelves.

360
Holley 750dp
Rpm air gap
Mp .484 cam
Eddie heads
Kb 107 fordged
Fordged rods

Maybe 350-375 hp?
Click to expand...

Ran the car a lot last summer. Best time was 13.9 with stock heads and stock pistons. On street tires with 3:55's.
 
I run the same combo as you except have steel 587 heads with 2.02 valves and have been 11.79 in my Demon. I think you already have 12s in that combo.
 
What Eddie heads are the ones to get? Looks like there are a few different ones for small block. What are the differences?
 
Does your demon have a full interior? I have been saving up money to get these heads for a while and you already have me second guessing myself. I think with my combo now and a better converter and some slicks I could get close to twelves but It doesn't feel like it has another second in it.
 
mopowers said:
What Eddie heads are the ones to get? Looks like there are a few different ones for small block. What are the differences?
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I know there is a different set for the 340 t/a but the other two I believe are assembled and disassembled. I can't remever the part number but I want to say it was just the rpm heads that were 779
 
doogievlg said:
I know there is a different set for the 340 t/a but the other two I believe are assembled and disassembled. I can't remever the part number but I want to say it was just the rpm heads that were 779
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Oh I see. Looks like there is 60779 with a 63cc chamber and 60179 with a 65cc chamber. Wonder what the other differences are??...
 
Yes, less wieght, better heat dissapation, better flow, better looks.
 
I'd say with the numbers you post now there's more in it. You can keep bolting on parts, but untill you learn how to make it work, it will never be as quick as it should be. So - yes, thyey are worth it. But no - not until you've maxed what you have. A 360 in an Abody with a mild cam can run deep in the 13s. With gearing and a convertor into the 12s. Is there a mechacnical issue with the engine now? Like a bad cylinder or smoking or something?
 
Valves are shot. It's smoking bad...that's what got me on the head idea to begin with. I haven't tore the motor apart since 2009 so there could be some issues. The converter is a cheap jegs 3000 rpm.
 
In my opinion heads are about intake airflow, that trumps everything else.
The aluminum does save a lot of weight so it might be worth it for that but that's up to you to decide.
 
doogievlg said:
This car is not going faster then 12s. I had it since I was 15 and want to be able to cruise in it. Next winter I'll be in the market for another a body to cut up. Heads are going with the block to get checked out.
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Say what??? Why can't you run faster than 12's and still go cruise?

I have worked on my Barracuda since I was 15, owned it since I was 18...and I now drive my mid 10 second car all over town in the warm months (and race it 2-4 times a month)....and no, my car is not a hacked up race car...it even has wipers and a back seat.

For what it's worth, my Barracuda uses ported Edelbrocks....I think they are worth it. If you only want to run 12's, you probably could just keep the stock heads and do a little port work...I wouldn't if it we me, but it's not my money.
 
So you have gears and convertor (even a cheaper one). You should be a bit faster, even with iffy guides and valve job. You "should" be able to make more power on the RPMs. Order the closed chamber ones. They will end up more than the iron ones getting completely redone with good valves, etc. Plus they will move some weight which will also help. But again - you have to learn to tune it. It should have been at least low 13s with what you had - even smoking the whole way down the track. So something's off.
 
I'm spinning tires pretty bad. I can't remeber the number but when I launch at a certian rpm I can get it down to wheel hop. Slicks and caltracs with my combo now would get me close to 12s.
 
moper said:
So you have gears and convertor (even a cheaper one). You should be a bit faster, even with iffy guides and valve job. You "should" be able to make more power on the RPMs. Order the closed chamber ones. They will end up more than the iron ones getting completely redone with good valves, etc. Plus they will move some weight which will also help. But again - you have to learn to tune it. It should have been at least low 13s with what you had - even smoking the whole way down the track. So something's off.
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Well find out when I tear it apart but now that I have money to spend and not worry about it, I'm going to just go ahead. It can't hurt right?
 
nobody asked about MPH???

The current set up in a GOOD chassis will run low 12's all day long. ET is chassis and has little to do with what's pushing it.

And IMO, no aluminum may not be worth it with other options out there that will provide power for less $$.
 
mopowers said:
What Eddie heads are the ones to get? Looks like there are a few different ones for small block. What are the differences?
Click to expand...

GOOD QUESTION!

For the new guys, here's the answer and then my answer to the thread starter.

Edelbrock sells there heads bare and fully set up with all the hardware. Which would be valves, seals, springs, retainers and locks.
There are 3 versions of a smallblock head.

The Magnum head.
The standard LA head
The 340 head which has a .060 relief for the early 340 piston engines because there pistons rise higher than the block.

This equals 6 heads to choose from.

To the thread starter and anybody else in this position.

It is possible to run in the 11's with iron heads! Or faster! BUT at this level, it really takes a deadacded drag car. Super light car. Lexan windows, fiberglass everything, etc.... Let's keep to the street version of this since the OP said he wanted to cruise the car.

For the price of ported iron, you should be as to least equal the air flow and exceed the Edelbrock head. This is the iron heads limit for the most part. (Extreme iron head porting costs more than a typical full porting and where not going there for a cruiser.)

The Edelbrocks offer a bit more and, well, also at the mandatory higher price.
Once you have the head, most people will tell you to have the machinist check it out and correct any possible issues. Add that onto the price tag of the heads.

The possible level of porting that a aluminum head offers in terms of air flow and performance is much greater than an iron head. But do you "NEED" it? Or just want it?

In the old MoPar Performance catolog, they offered "Tips" on what you will need to run a certain bracket E.T. I opened up my old book and looked in the section to see where it was they thought that running a ported head was a good idea in order to "Make that E.T." your looking to achieve. Well, it wasn't until the 12 second zone the suggest running there "Bowl Ported head."

In the 12.5 zone, for the 340/360, it is still as as cast head with good valves and a bracket valve job. Viton seals and the valve spring to match the cam. The thing the OP may not like is the suggested tire and rear ratio to run, which is a 4.10 gear and a 26 inch tire. (Slicks in this case sense these are "Track Tips")

I myself have run 4.10's for over a decade now and will travel on the Hwy. from L.I. - N.Y. To Carlie Pa. If your worried about burning a lot of fuel stay home or trailer the Queeen in.

If your worried about constant high RPM's, and question your engines health, I question your or your machinists build and talent.

And your faith in MoPars.
 
Get it to hook, before spending anymore on the engine,,,

As we have mentioned,, that car is prob. close to 12 sec as is,,

Chassis, and Tires need attn.....
 
crackedback said:
nobody asked about MPH???

The current set up in a GOOD chassis will run low 12's all day long. ET is chassis and has little to do with what's pushing it.

And IMO, no aluminum may not be worth it with other options out there that will provide power for less $$.
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I agree. Work the suspension and keep on the whole car. Tune tune tune that carb. A correct converter is worth a lot of time where it counts the most, at the starting line.
 
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