At a total loss for an explanation

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Just my opinion, but anything on the electronic ignition or it's installation are suspect. Given the facts as presented, my first two guesses are ignition pickup, then module. But it could also be the wiring work done for the conversion, the parts, the mounting of the ECU, the coil ,the ballast, the ignition switch, or any connection between any of those.
 
Wow!!! 25 responses. Y'all have been working on this harder than me. I will not be able to get back to it again until tonight.

Things I already tried--not all aimed at fixing this problem: New ballast resistor. Swapped coils with my Roadrunner. Checked spark on every cylinder with a timing light. Pulled front of engine apart to make sure chain was not jumping. Replaced a worn out battery. New fuel filter.

I will be trying a few suggestions this evening. Thanks.
 
You might also clean up and tighten the bulkhead connections if you haven't already.
 
So, I am getting ready to try a few things, but I need an opinion. I have a complete ignition setup for a 318. Shouldn't the distributor be the same? The 273 is from 67 and the 318 is a 69. I should be able to do a complete swap???
 
67dart_drop_top said:
So, I am getting ready to try a few things, but I need an opinion. I have a complete ignition setup for a 318. Shouldn't the distributor be the same? The 273 is from 67 and the 318 is a 69. I should be able to do a complete swap???
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Yes, but factory they would be points.
 
Did this car ever run right or you got it this way? If it did run before, don;t change anything else until you diagnoe it. You're just adding more variables into the mess by doing that.
 
Just to keep y'all updated, here is what I have done so far. I put in a known good distributor and coil with ignitor electronic ignition. Started right up and died after three minutes. Jumped the coil straight to the battery and got the same results. Another ballast resistor just for fun. Same.

Still trying some of the other troubleshooting stuff. I'm not too familiar with some of the suggestions, so I hope I do not make a fool of myself with more questions.
 
Dubob said:
I know you said fuel flow is not impeded. but when it does this try loosening gas cap and see if it's got vacuum pulling air in when you loosen it. Could be the vent for the fuel tank is plugged. How long does it have to sit before it restarts?
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I did not hear or feel anything. I left the cap off and restarted it. If it would have stayed running, this would have pointed the the gas tank vent, correct? Since it died, I guess I can scratch this off of my list.

I was really hoping this was the problem.
 
Do what it takes to "rig" a fuel pressure gauge to the carb. Used to be/ still is you can buy an inexpensive vacuum/ pressure test gauge at the parts store and whatever fittings you need to "tee" the gauge in.

By doing this, you mean I will be checking the fuel pump, correct?
 
When it dies the next time, look down the carb and work the throttle, see if you see the accelerator pump spray gas. With the engine NOT running!
 
Do we know whether it doesn't have spark or doesn't have fuel immediately after it stalls? We need to know.
 
toolmanmike said:
Do we know whether it doesn't have spark or doesn't have fuel immediately after it stalls? We need to know.
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EVERY single time I have seen these same symptoms and was sure of the spark it was a plugging up fuel filter or fuel supply in one form or another.
Not saying that's what it is, but it sure sounds like fuel starvation.
The only problem with that theory is he said it shuts off like someone turned it off, and a fuel starvation problem seems like it would start running crappy and die.
 
toolmanmike said:
Do we know whether it doesn't have spark or doesn't have fuel immediately after it stalls? We need to know.
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Sorry to be slow on this, but I just swapped the distributors back out. I got both cars back to running and will try to determine the answer to this question tomorrow.

I will be hooking up test lamps at the coil and ballast and doing a fuel test.

I think my guess at electrical is wrong, but I will not know until I find the fuel to be the issue.
 
The first basic test for a stalling or start/stall problem is wether it looses spark or fuel. There are mechanical issues like timing chain slipping and the like that can cause problems. Start with the basics and never overlook the ovbious.
 
The possibility of the timing chain jumping lead me to pull the engine, paint it, paint the engine bay, and restore or buy almost every mechanical or electrical part in the bay. I found a tight double roller, so that possibility was eliminated. And now it looks great under the hood too. LOL!!!

The problem I had before all this work was a stutter. It was like it was missing slightly when I let off the accelerator. Now it just warms up and dies.
 
I also just started to think fuel filter ... clogged or partially
As well as a possible carb issue.

Keep at it! And don't worry about a thing. I can not remember crap and have issues solved by others.
 
67dart_drop_top said:
The possibility of the timing chain jumping lead me to pull the engine, paint it, paint the engine bay, and restore or buy almost every mechanical or electrical part in the bay. I found a tight double roller, so that possibility was eliminated. And now it looks great under the hood too. LOL!!!

The problem I had before all this work was a stutter. It was like it was missing slightly when I let off the accelerator. Now it just warms up and dies.
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Back to my basic question, as soon as it dies, do you loose spark or fuel?
 
Gotta do basic troubleshooting man, throwing parts is time and money. Like my touch the coil wire to a tongue suggestion, thats checking for spark. Seriously, get a Chilton Manual, I think they still sell the big hardback manual that has a troubleshooting section and follow a logical process. You may need a fuel pressure guage and a multimeter to check grounds etc, but throwing parts at it is like findi ng a needle in a haystack. I agree with running it till it dies, then checking for spark and fuel. That will get you on the right path.
 
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Dartswinger70 said:
Gotta do basic troubleshooting man, throwing parts is time and money. Like my touch the coil wire to a tongue suggestion, thats checking for spark. Seriously, get a Chilton Manual, I think they still sell the big hardback manual that has a troubleshooting section and follow a logical process. You may need a fuel pressure guage and a multimeter to check grounds etc, but throwing parts at it is like findi ng a needle in a haystack. I agree with running it till it dies, then checking for spark and fuel. That will get you on the right path.
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Thanks. I have not really bought any parts--just exchanged them between cars. This tends to be my first go to method. I should be able to tell if it is spark or fuel today.
 
Hey hey hey! That coil wire is a tasty snack and it is better than coffee when it's running!

LMAO!!!!
 
My car did the exact same thing and it was a faulty ECU.
It would start up just fine and in a few minutes it would just die. Had fuel and would spin but it would not even try and start. Let it sit for an hour and it would start right up.
 
Hey i have a 67 Dart GT, 273, with electronic ign. Im having the same problem but much more sporadic. Doesnt seem like fuel becuase there is NO sputter or cough. Just straight dies. Seems your engine shut -off problem is happening more reliably than mine. I can sometimes drive my dart for awhile.But then randomly dies. And sometimes wont start as if it had no spark. even when cold.
I did all the tests as well. According to meter all my elect components are functioning correct. But Its hard to test when everything is hot and on the side of the hiway. Im gonna replace the ecu and see if that solves it.
Please Lets keep this thread going! just reading other guys thought processes are helping me quite a bit. thanks..... Going to look for a short in the fuse box in the AM.
Maybe we can track this gremlin down together.......
 
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