AWOL voltage regulator.

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TheBigDude

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In the course of figuring out an ignition problem, I noticed that I do not have a voltage regulator. This is my alt. 2 fld, I believe. I've got a 360 in a 68 Dart. I assume the voltage regulator went missing when the previous owner put in an electronic ignition system, but who knows. Am I correct in believing I should have a voltage regulator? Can someone suggest which particular regulator I should get? Thanks.

PS. The red wire on the left is to ground. The one on the right goes directly to the balast resistor. The car does run.
 

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I used the same "square-back" alternator on my 1965. I wired it for the "2-field wire" mode ("low-side control"), using the 1971+ VR w/ triangle connector, all from junkyard. I put the VR on the inner fender right beside the alternator to keep things simple, and I was rewiring the whole engine bay.

You could also use the earlier VR which uses "1-field wire" mode ("high-side control"). You can buy electronic versions that are thin and shiny, or ones that look like the original big black box. See rockauto for all above, even the triangle connector. I don't know that the 1-wire VR has the oomph to drive the square-back's field, but "should work".

Whatever you do, lose the silly same-color wiring. The right wire probably goes to +12 V IGN, which is available at the ballast. It is currently wired for "full field", which will over-charge your battery (convert H2O to H2 & O2). I did that once to drive a car home when it wasn't charging, but "for emergency use only".
 
you have to have one. grounding that wire on a 68 would be "right" as the original only had one field. the original field wire leads off to the regulator, should be a rectangular box nearby the ignition resistor, near the master cylinder
 
Thanks DDodger and BillGrissom for responding. I am going to to change out the red ground wire when I put a VR in, there is not one on the car right now, I'm sure of that. The whole wiring harness situation is so messed up I am considering starting over.
 
TheBigDude said:
... The whole wiring harness situation is so messed up I am considering starting over.
Click to expand...
The engine bay wiring is often in bad state w/ hard flaky insulation. I re-wired that in my 2 A's from scratch, using a fuse/relay box from 95-99 Jeep. 67Dart273 did similar, using a minivan box. I then have relays for all big loads and eliminated the scattered relays on the firewall (starter, horn), plus used thinner 20 awg ribbon cable from the bulkhead connector. Search for my post "Modernized wiring ...". You can also buy new harnesses for $$, but some require extensive mod's, plus many people mod for headlamp relays or electric fuel pumps, so less you can leverage. If you need connectors, check Dodge motorhomes since they used the same 60's connectors thru the 1980's or 1990's.
 
Thanks for all the good advice Bill. I think I'm going to patch things up so I can drive my car this summer, and then deal with re-wiring next winter. I've considered the premade wiring harness approach, but it seems unnecessary and expensive. I like your approach better.
 
That VR could be wired anywhere on the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor. Anywhere. That blue wire proceeds to the ignition switch. So anywhere includes under the dash.
That does look like an isolated field alt. And it looks to be full fielded.
The proof is in the voltage. Measure the battery rest voltage with the key off. Then start er up, and read the running voltage. If it is higher than it was, then its charging. If its within 1 to 1.5 volts higher and less than 14 thats good. Rev it up a bit. If the votage stays about the same, theres a VR somewhere. But if the voltage climbs to 16 or higher, the the alt is in full fielded mode, and needs to be rescued ASAP, to prevent system meltdown.This doesnt mean that the VR isnt still hiding somewhere, only that its not in circuit.
Are you familiar with what the VR looks like?
 
i'd go with the newer regulator since you already have the alt. for it. a lot more stable..


old%20to%20new%20regulator.jpg
 
Abodyjoe. Thanks for posting the wiring diagram. Man I love this forum. I ordered the exact VR you suggest last Sunday or so and I was thinking I need to figure how to wire it up tomorrow and I check in here ....and there ya go. Thanks!
 
I agree, thanks Joe! I'm redoing my engine compartment and am getting rid of the old points style voltage regulator. That diagram was just what I needed!
 
AJ/FormS. Yup, I know a VR when I see one. I didn't think to look under the dash though. I'll take a look. But, I think there is not one. My car hadn't been on the road for 15 years when I bought it. It didn't run. I've got a new carb etc on it now and it runs good, for about 10 minutes, then turns off like somebody turned off the key. I'm sure it's a bad ground situation with the balast resistor or just a bad coil. But, the wiring is such a mess I'm ditching all that and going with a GM HEI. I am going to check the voltage off the alt like you suggest. That seems like a good idea.
 
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