axle play... pulled axle and saw this.....

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tarvin890

tarvin890
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this is the axle that had in out play less that 1/4 inch.... look close...the little rubber seal is pushing out... thats all i could see..cause axle play? anyone else see something i dont? did a nono to go after the vibration, pulled the axle for new bearing adn the driveshaft for new ujoints...will have results next friday!
 

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and this.....
 

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In the first photo, what is that showing to the left of the rubber? Is that a crack, or some kind of deformation on the axle?
 
I'm not sure, can you post a few more pictures of it? NO don't just kidding. That bearing seal in itself will not cause play, it will cause a oil leak as you can tell. Check the axle vent to make sure it is not clogged. That would cause that seal to push out like that. Is the bearing outer race loose on the inner? That will cause the play.
 
I'm not sure, can you post a few more pictures of it? NO don't just kidding. That bearing seal in itself will not cause play, it will cause a oil leak as you can tell. Check the axle vent to make sure it is not clogged. That would cause that seal to push out like that. Is the bearing outer race loose on the inner? That will cause the play.

not sure what you mean...unless you mean if i grab the bearing and spin...push pull on it...it feels fine.... bearing needs to go just based on the seal pushed out.... but if a new bearing setup gets put on (parts are on the way from doc diff) and the play is still there...its time to drop the pumpkin...right.
 
not sure what you mean...unless you mean if i grab the bearing and spin...push pull on it...it feels fine.... bearing needs to go just based on the seal pushed out.... but if a new bearing setup gets put on (parts are on the way from doc diff) and the play is still there...its time to drop the pumpkin...right.

No if you put new bearings on it. and the bearing retainers are good, that should keep the axles from moving in and out. This has nothing with the third member.
 
No if you put new bearings on it. and the bearing retainers are good, that should keep the axles from moving in and out. This has nothing with the third member.

so i am moving in the right direction,,, thanks.... is that metal scaring normal in the latter pics? seems like the sign of a bearing issue...i appreciate you help... and yes the vent has been gunked up... will be cleaning it today... thanks
 
Its looks to me like that bearing is either not pressed on far enough, or the spacer/thrust block in the center of the diff. has issues.
I mean the end play is set between the THRUST block,and the pressing of the retaining flange, against the edge of the outer bearing.And the thrust block needs to be driven over to the other side. And if the bearing on other side is also not pressed on far enough,then the T-block just ends up bottoming out, in its center slot.So it may be that both bearings need to be repositioned.
 
As mentioned the vent not operating could push the seals, however with the green bearings the thrust spacer or block in the differential may need removed. My first thought is that someone pulled the hearings into the housing using the retainer bolts and side loaded the bearings against the spacer in the differential.


This is courtesy of Dr Diff. http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

The need for non-adjustable wheel bearings

Most of these problems can be avoided by installing non-adjustable sealed ball “Green” wheel bearings. The name comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. The company has since been purchased by Bearing Technologies.

Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.
 
Its looks to me like that bearing is either not pressed on far enough, or the spacer/thrust block in the center of the diff. has issues.
I mean the end play is set between the THRUST block,and the pressing of the retaining flange, against the edge of the outer bearing.And the thrust block needs to be driven over to the other side. And if the bearing on other side is also not pressed on far enough,then the T-block just ends up bottoming out, in its center slot.So it may be that both bearings need to be repositioned.

You are referring to the OEM style bearings. These are the Green style bearings and do not use the thrust buttons or the retaining adjuster.
 
As mentioned the vent not operating could push the seals, however with the green bearings the thrust spacer or block in the differential may need removed. My first thought is that someone pulled the hearings into the housing using the retainer bolts and side loaded the bearings against the spacer in the differential.


This is courtesy of Dr Diff. http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

The need for non-adjustable wheel bearings

Most of these problems can be avoided by installing non-adjustable sealed ball “Green” wheel bearings. The name comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. The company has since been purchased by Bearing Technologies.

Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.

Real good info here. And yes most problems associated with Green style bearing come from them being side loaded. I think this is why they get a bad rep.
 
there is no thrust block...i peeped in and i see the pin thats it.. yes these are the 2nd gen on the car the plate is seperate...
 
The seals could be plugged housing vent? What do the bearings feel like as they sit "out?" There should be very little play, looseness, and they should turn nice and smooth.
 
there is no thrust block...i peeped in and i see the pin thats it.. yes these are the 2nd gen on the car the plate is seperate...

There shouldn't be a pin in there either. You should be able to see through to the other side. Easiest way to tell is to put a flashlight in one of the tubes and look in from the other side. If you can see light there's no thrust block.

Here's a picture of what it should look like without the block.

IMG_1535.jpg
 
There shouldn't be a pin in there either. You should be able to see through to the other side. Easiest way to tell is to put a flashlight in one of the tubes and look in from the other side. If you can see light there's no thrust block.

Here's a picture of what it should look like without the block.

Unless he has a cone style SG. In that case you should see the cross shaft only and not the flat floating trust spacer.
 
Im sorry, Ive never installed those kits. I always thought that if you have to press them onto the axles just like the timkins, and you have to remove the chunk to remove the thrust block, and you give up the timken feature;What could possibly be the point.So I never bothered to research it. I have replaced several sets of the timkins.

So what locates the assembly so as to prevent it from moving back and forth in the tube in the area formerly occupied by the tapered bearing?
Unless its located on the outboard edge by a large metal ring and a matching new retaining plate.In which case that ring better be up to the task.EDIT;I dont see no steenkeeeng snapreeng.
And then you have a second problem. Without the Tblock to properly locate the axles in the backing plates, I suppose you would have to locate the bearings in just the right spot, so that the installed drums wouldnt interfere with or rub on the backing plates .And/or if the flanges end up too far out, then the shoes end up too close to the outer edge of the drums, and catching on the ridge that forms there..
IDK. Sounds hokey to me.Like said Whats the point?
 
there is no thrust block...i peeped in and i see the pin thats it.. yes these are the 2nd gen on the car the plate is seperate...
If these are 2nd gen. bearing they need the snap rings.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMHeQRtMJmI"]Mopar 8.75 Rear Differnetial Axle Bearing Replacement with Green Sealed Bearings part # RP 400 - YouTube[/ame]
stop at 19sec. in.
looks like yours are first gen.
 
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