B body 8 3/4

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mopardrt

mopardrt

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How many guys here are running b body rear ends with just the spring perches moved it? Is it a practical idea? I have a 1974 swinger and a B body 8 3/4 laying around
 
ona duster,demon or 67-69 barracuda it's practical due to the large wheel opening, with stock width wheels it may be practical on your car also, if you have a pair of rear wheels you wish to use on your car bolt them to the b body rear and measure and see if it is gonna work for your application
 
Anything can be accomplised given enough time and money.Pro's and cons to everything,there was a reason why the engineers built ABCE and truck rears.I pulled a B body rear out of an A body that someone decided to change,probably because they didn't want to pay for A body rear.It costs me 75.00 to have the A's drilled to 4.5 My opinion is you guy's do all the crazy stuff you want,thats why they call it Hotrodding,I'll spend the 75 and keep the A body rear.
 
Works well, especially on Dusters/Demons with their wider rear fenders, but I have seen them used successfully on Darts and A body Barracudas with the right wheel/tire combination. If you want to run large diameter, wide width, late model wheels with their huge offset, a B body rear end can save you from moving leaf springs and/or tubbing.
 
I didn't see him post he had an a 8.75 rear. 66 67 b rears are an easy swap. Move the perches in half an inch each side and get wheels with 1.5 inches more backspace because it's roughly 3 inches wider. If you are buying new wheels it's a real money saver. You can probably buy wheels on what you save. Later b rears not a good swap.
 
its worth it in my opinion. screw that expensive "a-body" 8 3/4 rear bologna. i bought my 68-69 b-body rear for a 150 bucks complete with large bolt pattern axles, and larger 10x2.5 in brakes. like mentioned fits well in my 68 cuda with larger offset wheels. and yea, perches moved in 1/2 inch each side.
 
d5667 said:
Anything can be accomplised given enough time and money.Pro's and cons to everything,there was a reason why the engineers built ABCE and truck rears.I pulled a B body rear out of an A body that someone decided to change,probably because they didn't want to pay for A body rear.It costs me 75.00 to have the A's drilled to 4.5 My opinion is you guy's do all the crazy stuff you want,thats why they call it Hotrodding,I'll spend the 75 and keep the A body rear.
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Me too.
 
I have a 67 Coronet 8 3/4" axle in my 67 Dart. The rear wheels are 15x6 steelies from a D-100 truck. I could actually go 1/2" wider to the outside and just over an inch inboard if I wanted. In that same car, I once had a 68 B axle with 15x8 Rally wheels from Wheel Vintiques. 6 Inches of backspace. THAT wheelwell was dang near FULLY utilized! 255-55-15 tires. Odd size, but they were FREE so I used them.
My brother in law has a 72 Duster with that '68 axle now. It really helps the tires sit better in the larger flared quarters of those cars.
 
I am doing it. Mine was out of a 66 charger (Little narrower than the 71 and up bodies.) All I did was bring the perches in about an inch if my memory serves me right.
 
Im going with a 67 B-body rear. I think they are 54.25 housing flange to flange. My A-body rear is 52 and 13/64" according to BBD.com tech page. I hope the B-body is only roughly 1" wider per side or im screwed on my wheel and tire combo.
 
i got a complete unit out of a 69 coronet R/T for $150, nd moved the perches in. I was getting custom wheels anyways, so i just made custom width steelies for the b-body diff. I think it is worth it.
 
i put one in my duster this winter. i wanted to get rid of the spacers with my wheels and the narrow Abody axle. i have to get the rear down almost 2 more inches,so i may have to go back with the A,or do some inner fender work.
 
I had a 67 B body axle on my 73 Duster and didn't move the perches.
No troubles at all for over 3 years of "spirited" driving with a 360 and 3.23 SG.
 
I put a B-Body rear under my Demon, fit right in nice and neat but now I need 8.75 shock plates
 
Next question is if I'm using the stock 904 with stock drive shaft how hard is it to change the end of the drive shaft to mate with the bigger front of the 8 3/4
 
d5667 said:
Anything can be accomplised given enough time and money.Pro's and cons to everything,there was a reason why the engineers built ABCE and truck rears.I pulled a B body rear out of an A body that someone decided to change,probably because they didn't want to pay for A body rear.It costs me 75.00 to have the A's drilled to 4.5 My opinion is you guy's do all the crazy stuff you want,thats why they call it Hotrodding,I'll spend the 75 and keep the A body rear.
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Thats nuts it only leaves like 1/4 inch of meat left on the axles. I had a friend that decided to do that and axle hubs came apart.
 
All 8 3/4 rear ends. Info from: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/17.html

66-72 A-body rear end is 57 1/8" drum to drum

65-67 B-body rear end is 59 1/2" drum to drum... 2 3/8" wider than A-body... 1 3/16" wider on each side

68-70 B-body rear end is 60 1/8" drum to drum... 3" wider than A-body... 1 1/2" wider on each side
 
autoxcuda said:
All 8 3/4 rear ends. Info from: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/17.html

66-72 A-body rear end is 59 1/2" drum to drum

65-67 B-body rear end is 59 1/2" drum to drum... 2 3/8" wider than A-body... 1 3/16" wider on each side

68-70 B-body rear end is 60 1/8" drum to drum... 3" wider than A-body... 1 1/2" wider on each side
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A body 8.75's are 57 1/8" drum to drum. I think you got some numbers mashed up there. The B rears are right. There's another link at moparts that does not have that POS chart, i think it's right above the link you posted #16. Has all the correct lengths in it.
 
I'd love to see an A body housing that is 52 13/64", never seen one...

Every one I've ever had has been 52 5/8" within 1/16" either way.
 
Here's the 65-67 B-body rear end I scored at last Fall Fling. Just cleaned and disassembled it this weekend.

I plan to running 5.7" backspacing rims front and rear. That's 1.2" more backspace than the 4.5" backspacing rims I've run before that were close. That will make up for the 1 3/16" (1.1875") more width on each side....

We'll see.

I've got to mock everything up and really see what actually fits, as opposed to what theoretically fits.

I plan to weld baffles on banjo kick ups to prevent oil slosh from cornering. And I'm trying to fit some Seals-It type inner axles seals on the inner part of the tube.
 

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74DartSwinger360 said:
Thats nuts it only leaves like 1/4 inch of meat left on the axles. I had a friend that decided to do that and axle hubs came apart.
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You should fire your machinist.Three of my own are running drilled axles,I have friends in different states that use them.Axle hubs??????? 8 3/4 axle is a one piece item.If you have enough torque to twist an axle apart you need a DANA!!!
 
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