Bad battery? Starter? Starter Switch?

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CultClassik

CultClassik

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After working on paint forever, I wanted to fire the car up since it's been sitting for over a year. This is a 67 Dart with a 318. It did function fine before tear down but a lot has happened since and I wanted to see what everyone thought about this.

The interior is not in, so I went out and connected the middle plug from the engine bay to the interior harness, along with battery power to the interior harness at the ammeter junction (ammeter is bypassed, so just one wire going in, alternator now feeds the battery directly).

The only other change I've made to the wiring is splicing the ign wires on the interior harness (dk blue, brown) that originally went to the ballast. I had an HEI before, and was running both wires in the bay to the HEI. Now I've changed to an Accel 300+ and since I had the interior out, I spliced them inside to eliminate the extra wire in the bay.

Anyway, I don't think there's anything wrong with the wiring but I can't quite figure this out, I'm leaning towards bad starter switch, even though it's only a couple of years old and the car wasn't used much after I installed it. Turning the key to start it results in a lot of clicks, like a dead battery. I've charged it and recharged it and the multi meter says it's good (12.5-13.5v depending on how many times I've tried the key since charging).

Am I crazy or what?
 
A starter relay clicks once when its contacts move. If the power supply is good those contacts should stay closed and run the starter or heat up a bad starter. "Clicking" is not enough power to hold them closed.
Check positive and grounds.
Having to scratch away fresh paint to create good grounds is the devil in the details.
 
Some contact or connection is corroded and dropping the voltage when the current starts to flow; that dropped voltage releases the relay, the current stops, the voltage rises and the relay re-engages. It happens over and over and casues the chatter.

Places to start looking:
- Corroded terminals on the battery connections
- Corroded connection around the large lug on the starter relay
- Fusbile link erratic or corroded under the insulation
- Corroded connections in the firewall connector
 
Thanks, I'll dig around out there later. Most of this stuff is fairly new (and was working), that's what's throwing me. Battery cables, mini starter, starter relay, etc. Harness is in great condition as well. I'll start with making sure ground points are scuffed and clean and see what we come up with.
 
CultClassik said:
... Turning the key to start it results in a lot of clicks, like a dead battery. ...
Click to expand...
That is so common, you see it in Hollywood movies. Have someone measure the battery voltage, directly at the battery posts. If it holds >10 V while cranking, the battery is fine. Then measure on the cable sides of each connection. If <8 V, remove terminals and clean w/ a battery brush. Re-attach and spray anti-corrosion on them. This is an annual chore in eastern states, and if your Texas is Houston, you ain't really in the West despite the drugstore cowboys (I used to live there).
 
That was my first thought, but it charged up fine and holds power. I need to check again but I think it was showing 9.5-10v cranking.

It's only 2.5 years old and has maybe 20 hours run time on it. I occasionally used a trickle charger on it...my luck it's dead.

Haha Bill, Ft Worth area here, but lived in Houston for a bit many years ago.
 
Battery was bad. Like I said maybe 20 hours run time and periodicly put a trickle charger on it. What a waste. At least it's cranking. Now if I can get it to fire I'll be in business. I think this car hates me :p
 
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